Just another K swap...
#221
Ah, pics are working for me now. Must’ve been an issue on my end.
Didn’t realize you had those circuits isolated and shielded too. Yeah, my insight is probably null. Very interested to see what you find on it, though.
Looks like a killer trip overall, though! Appreciate the in depth write up and all the photos. I gotta get out to CO this summer…
Didn’t realize you had those circuits isolated and shielded too. Yeah, my insight is probably null. Very interested to see what you find on it, though.
Looks like a killer trip overall, though! Appreciate the in depth write up and all the photos. I gotta get out to CO this summer…
#222
I assume you have looked at all the connectors and wire terminations for looseness? Earth? We had someone who had the cam sensor problem intermittently, tracked (eventually) to looseness between the connector and sensor - cable tie was the solution .
(No problem with pictures)
Geeze, you do do things in style - the motor home, TWO cars in the trailer, and the dog! , much envy!
(No problem with pictures)
Geeze, you do do things in style - the motor home, TWO cars in the trailer, and the dog! , much envy!
#223
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Yup, checked at the sensor end, to the point of de-pinning the connector to check the wire crimps. The only thing I have yet to check is the pin on the ECU side at the ECU harness connection.
#224
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Originally Posted by Gee Emm
Geeze, you do do things in style - the motor home, TWO cars in the trailer, and the dog! , much envy!
It's an awesome setup for what we like doing, but it's not quite as baller as all that. The motorhome is 20 years old and cost us about the same as a decked out new crew cab dually. Still a lot of money, but nothing like a new one... Ours was clearly well cared for, and only had 67,000 miles when we bought it. And the nice thing about the older, high-end RVs is they're put together a LOT better than most of the new RV stuff on the market. Real wood, real tile.... etc. I had to search a LONG time to find the trailer... it took about 8 months to find a used stacker within reasonable driving distance. We have a LOT less in the whole package than new Sprinter based RVs sell for, for example.
I would have preferred something a little smaller, because it is a little exciting to drive in tight quarters. The big issue for us was being able to tow a stacker, and that required a chassis with some stones, and you don't find the big motors in small RVs. I originally wanted a semi-based Super C, but they are a LOT more expensive than the equivalent age/mileage Class A. If we're not racing, and just flat towing our Grand Cherokee, it's a lot easier to deal with, but we're still too big for National Park, and most National Forest campgrounds. But it's also big enough to be comfortable living in for a month at a time, so we make it work.
And you gotta love modern technology... streaming F1 in the Paddock...
#225
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Roda's RV+tow setup is super nice, saw it in person, very impressive. I do agree that piloting that thing makes me nervous, but if you keep it on main highways probably not too bad at all. I'd avoid the million dollar highway with that rig, for example, though.
And 63.8 on BP power is hella impressive. I'm sad the car wasn't working because now I'm super curious what it will do on the K. I guess we'll find out next year!! I know there's at least 61's on the table for my car, especially watching my videos after the fact, so I look forward to making it back to GJMS!
Hopefully you get the issue sorted, maybe we can plan a fall trip to ASR in Las Cruces?
And 63.8 on BP power is hella impressive. I'm sad the car wasn't working because now I'm super curious what it will do on the K. I guess we'll find out next year!! I know there's at least 61's on the table for my car, especially watching my videos after the fact, so I look forward to making it back to GJMS!
Hopefully you get the issue sorted, maybe we can plan a fall trip to ASR in Las Cruces?
#226
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Can you check the gap on the factory sensor? It'll require some depth gauge trickery, and then subtracting the length of the OE sensor. Then I might take that gap and divide it by two, see if you can shave that off the sensor. What sucks is that there may be either a trigger wheel or ECU issue that makes all of these fix attempts pointless.
#227
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I've got a thread going over on the Link forums, and Adam is speculating it may be the VTEC solenoid causing a spike... going to test that tomorrow. I'm also planning to see if I can get an inspection cam into the CPS hole to look at the trigger wheel.
Link forum thread
Link forum thread
#229
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That's what we're working on. Here's a screen shot showing the voltage spike (marked in red - green is the normal 'extra tooth').
Unplugging the VTEC/VTC had no effect. I'm going to try to get some images with an inspection camera today.
Unplugging the VTEC/VTC had no effect. I'm going to try to get some images with an inspection camera today.
#230
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#232
Is the voltage reading on the scope plot correct here? 3.5v seems a little low for the "high" signal, I'd expect closer to 4.5v. But that's me assuming that the expected signal output is 0-5v.
Do you know the setup parameters for the crank sensor? There should be something like "less than this voltage is low" which I would expect to be set around 0.5v, and "above this voltage is high", which may need tweaking given what we're seeing in the plot above.
Also, which 12v circuit is powering this sensor? What else is on that circuit?
I'm slacking off work or I'd dive into the Honda and Link manuals to orient myself...
Do you know the setup parameters for the crank sensor? There should be something like "less than this voltage is low" which I would expect to be set around 0.5v, and "above this voltage is high", which may need tweaking given what we're seeing in the plot above.
Also, which 12v circuit is powering this sensor? What else is on that circuit?
I'm slacking off work or I'd dive into the Honda and Link manuals to orient myself...
#236
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Note: This option is only available when using Optical/Hall Trigger Type.
Select the edge of the trigger signal that indicates the trigger event:
·Rising - The trigger event occurs when the signal goes from a low voltage (eg 0V) to a high voltage (eg 5,8 or 12V).
·Falling - The trigger event occurs when the signal goes from a high voltage (eg 5,8 or 12V) to a low voltage (eg 0V).
Select the edge of the trigger signal that indicates the trigger event:
·Rising - The trigger event occurs when the signal goes from a low voltage (eg 0V) to a high voltage (eg 5,8 or 12V).
·Falling - The trigger event occurs when the signal goes from a high voltage (eg 5,8 or 12V) to a low voltage (eg 0V).
#238
Have you verified that you have 12v at the sensor? Especially when the solenoids are active?
Could you pull the CPS as it is wired right now and record a trace of you passing a large piece of steel past the sensor end so we can see what the maximum voltage is that can be returned?
I'm wondering if the toothed wheel is out of range of the sensor end, either through the sensor being too far away, or the wheel being off-centerline of the sensor, thus causing the weak "high" signal. All the teeth appear to be delivering the same "high" signal, so the sensor-to-tooth distance is consistent.
#240
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Have you verified that you have 12V at the sensor?
Could you pull the CPS as it is wired right now and record a trace of you passing a large piece of steel past the sensor end so we can see what the maximum voltage is that can be returned?
I'm wondering if the toothed wheel is out of range of the sensor end, either through the sensor being too far away, or the wheel being off-centerline of the sensor, thus causing the weak "high" signal. All the teeth appear to be delivering the same "high" signal, so the sensor-to-tooth distance is consistent.
I'm wondering if the toothed wheel is out of range of the sensor end, either through the sensor being too far away, or the wheel being off-centerline of the sensor, thus causing the weak "high" signal. All the teeth appear to be delivering the same "high" signal, so the sensor-to-tooth distance is consistent.
I don't have the extra hands around to test the sensor with a piece of steel... might try that when my wife gets back in town.
Crappy pic of inspection camera...
I'm really leaning toward an ECU problem, but may try running a ground wire straight to battery from the ECU grounding point to see if that has any effect.