It's probably time for an introduction and build thread
#21
Spent the weekend fiddling with the car. Got the camber in that recommended -3.2 range front, -2.8 rear. Toe is 0 in the front, 1/16 in the rear. Caster is yes, it has caster. Was really struggling with measuring it accurately, so will call it "4-5 degrees". Caster is pretty much maxed out so I can dial some out if needed. Rake ended up 0 on right side and 1/8" on left side, hovering in/around that 5-5.25" pinchweld height. The 7" front springs I think are hindering my ability to get into the 4's, but will run it as is and then if I need more low will swap out to 6" front springs and rescale when I put in the 1.8. Plenty of adjustment on the rear I can get it into the 4's for pinchweld height.
Fiddled for hours but got it dialed in enough to see how I like this. 2,341 lbs with driver and full tank of fuel.
Plenty of clearance for the brake ducts. Same clearance on other side.
Needs a tune and a bath.
Next step: Load base tune that is properly configured, set base timing, make sure it starts and revs. Then register for an autocross next Sunday for shakedown, first track event available to me with my schedule is in June
Fiddled for hours but got it dialed in enough to see how I like this. 2,341 lbs with driver and full tank of fuel.
Plenty of clearance for the brake ducts. Same clearance on other side.
Needs a tune and a bath.
Next step: Load base tune that is properly configured, set base timing, make sure it starts and revs. Then register for an autocross next Sunday for shakedown, first track event available to me with my schedule is in June
#23
Well I was going to autocross.....
Upon bedding the brakes noticed weird brake feels after a few applications. Then pedal pressure went to hell. Came back from test drive and found fluid low in reservoir (brake light came on) and RR had fluid in the wheel.
Pulled it apart as I already gutted these for the ebrake delete. Need to pull the snap ring but can't determine where the fluid is coming from. Will pull the snap ring to ensure the o ring is in there. If so no idea why it's leaking. Is it possible to put the caliper piston seal upside down? Maybe this core isn't any good, but it didn't leak before I pulled it apart....
Overall a bit stumped. Will inspect further today but probably just order a new caliper if I can't find anything conclusive.
Car drove straight and steering effort was really light on the street. Tune is close, bit rich up top at wot but roughed in for certain. Seems to follow the road, not sure if I need to tighten up the steering resistance a bit in the rack, dial out some caster, or just drive it a bit more and see if it's the loose nut behind the wheel; probably the later.
And...that's the issue right there.
Upon bedding the brakes noticed weird brake feels after a few applications. Then pedal pressure went to hell. Came back from test drive and found fluid low in reservoir (brake light came on) and RR had fluid in the wheel.
Pulled it apart as I already gutted these for the ebrake delete. Need to pull the snap ring but can't determine where the fluid is coming from. Will pull the snap ring to ensure the o ring is in there. If so no idea why it's leaking. Is it possible to put the caliper piston seal upside down? Maybe this core isn't any good, but it didn't leak before I pulled it apart....
Overall a bit stumped. Will inspect further today but probably just order a new caliper if I can't find anything conclusive.
Car drove straight and steering effort was really light on the street. Tune is close, bit rich up top at wot but roughed in for certain. Seems to follow the road, not sure if I need to tighten up the steering resistance a bit in the rack, dial out some caster, or just drive it a bit more and see if it's the loose nut behind the wheel; probably the later.
And...that's the issue right there.
Last edited by niterydr; 05-19-2024 at 12:54 PM.
#24
Oof! Bummer about that o-ring, but better for it to happen now than while racing. And especially before the track next month.
Glad everything else seems to be working well. FWIW, I never felt the need to add steering resistance to the race after fully depowering mine. The car definitely takes a bit more effort to fight tramlining though because.. well, no power steering lol.
Glad everything else seems to be working well. FWIW, I never felt the need to add steering resistance to the race after fully depowering mine. The car definitely takes a bit more effort to fight tramlining though because.. well, no power steering lol.
#25
Oof! Bummer about that o-ring, but better for it to happen now than while racing. And especially before the track next month.
Glad everything else seems to be working well. FWIW, I never felt the need to add steering resistance to the race after fully depowering mine. The car definitely takes a bit more effort to fight tramlining though because.. well, no power steering lol.
Glad everything else seems to be working well. FWIW, I never felt the need to add steering resistance to the race after fully depowering mine. The car definitely takes a bit more effort to fight tramlining though because.. well, no power steering lol.
Also got to diagnose a faulty coolant fan relay. Nothing like a 34 year old car.
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