As I mentioned in this thread https://www.miataturbo.net/prefabbed...e-wheel-81058/ my car ate a throttle body screw at Miatas @ MRLS 2014, so it's time for an engine rebuild and a new turbo. Figured I'd make a new build thread for it, since my only previous one was for brakes/ABS conversion (https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...into-nb-73579/) and this is pretty different.

I built the motor that ate the screw in 2010, when the chassis had 83K on it, it's got 93K now. 84mm Supertech 9:1 pistons, Carrillo A-beam rods, ported/polished BP4W head with +1mm intake valves, ATI super damper, stock cams. With an FM2 kit, full 3" exhaust, 95 octane gas (50/50 mix of 100 and CA 91) and a Hydra 2.5, it made 267.5 rwhp on a DynaPack:


The 2012 event (just before it ate 3rd gear in the original 5-speed):

With the 6ULs and A6s on it:


Engine coming out:


Some additional teardown pics:

The mangled up #4 piston:

#1 and #2:

#3 and #4:


The rod bearings seem OK. #1

#2

#3

#4


Carrillo A-beams are getting reused for the new motor:


I haven't got the main bearings out yet because getting the ATI damper off is something of a pain. I need to make a tool to bolt to the flywheel end of the crank so I can hold it while pulling the ATI off.


--Ian

 

New turbo arrived today, no more 2560 -- I'm going with a GTX2863R and the FM2R EWG housing. Yes I know, the EFR is better in every way, but the 2863/FM2R one bolts up to pieces I already have, and it's off-the-shelf.

The 2863 drop-shipped from ATP, and got here in 1 day, yay.



Obligatory cat-and-turbo shot (my 14-year-old cat Smoke).


Comparing the 2560 and 2863. The turbine housing is noticeably larger:


The compressor housing not so much. It's almost exactly the same diameter as the 2560, I'm kind of surprised. I guess I probably won't need to carve up the frame any more.





--Ian

 

The car has an old ACT XT clutch in it, from when I first put the 2560 on it, way back in 2002 (the FM2 Link Piggyback 2-cat CARB-approved kit). > 60K miles on the clutch, it's not quite worn out yet, but FM was offering a big discount to clear out one of the last ACTs they had in stock, so I decided to replace it.

The pressure plate kind of looks like Jupiter...



Grooves in the clutch disc are still visible.





More gas giant storms on the old 9.5 pound aluminum FM flywheel. Need to find someone who sells the inserts for these.



--Ian

 

I just got an insert for my flywheel but its the wrong size. I was gonna send it back but if it is the correct size for you and you're interested just send me a PM.

Edit: But Fab9 sells them, which is were I got mine, but its the wrong size (I dont have a genuine Fidanza though). Summit sells all sorts of sizes of inserts.

 

No 12+1 trigger wheel?

 

How many holes are in the one you bought? Supposedly Fidanza has 18 and 20 hole versions, mine appears to be 20.

--Ian

 

I'll have to check when I get home tomorrow. I literally opened it, saw that it wouldn't fit then went out of town for the weekend, but I'll check asap.

 

I'd put the clutch together as-is and run it. Nothing out of the ordinary there. It was in there just like that before you pulled it out and it worked fine

I have the replacement rod bolts for A-beams in stock, FYI. IMO they are one-time use unless you measure stretch length on disassembly and compare to original lengths.

 

bummer about losing a motor and turbo to a screw :(

but I'm excited for the upcoming setup - not too many gtx2863's around here, we need more data/plots.

good luck to you

 

^ Yeah, the clutch surfaces look normal. Scuff it lightly and return it to use.

 

As far as the clutch goes, I have a new disc and new pressure plate on order. The old one still has life left in it, yes, but I'm hoping not to have to take the transmission off again anytime soon. Yes, I know, the 2863 may have other ideas on that front, but I can still hope, right? So, if i'm putting in a new disc, will that work with the existing flywheel friction surface, or should it have a fresh one to mate with?

I forgot to write down the bolt length before installing them, so they need to be replaced. I have new rod bolts on order already.

Tried to get the ATI super damper off today. Argh, stupid *&^%ing thing will NOT come off, I managed to break the head off one of the puller bolts trying. That's recessed into the damper, so I guess I'm done with that for now. I'm taking it the block to the machinist next week -- I guess I'll see if he can get it off.

--Ian

 

I meant that the surface of Saturn (or Uranus, if you prefer it that way) looks just fine.

Scuff both with a little sandpaper and add a new clutch disc and everything should be good.

 

OK, so the damper is off. Broken bolt came out very easily (just a pair of pliers), and after sitting for a day with penetrating oil on it, replacing the bolt, tapping with a hammer a few times, and hitting it with the impact wrench the puller got it off. Man that was a pain.

--Ian

 

I checked the flywheel insert I have this morning. 8.5" diameter but 16 holes, so probably no good for you.

 

Whee, shiny new parts.





Still waiting on new pistons and a replacement block to haul off to the machine shop.

--Ian

 

Not a lot of updates recently -- took the block to the machine shop last week and they confirmed I need a new one. Dropped off the other bits, and started looking for one. I should have one tonight, I hope.

Decided to throw an MSM cam in there. Mazdaspeed was backordered when I started looking for one, but 949 had them in stock. Then when I decided to pull the trigger, 949 had gone out of stock, but Mazdaspeed had them back. Weird. Ah well, I'll take the $50 savings.



New throttle body. I'm told to loctite basically every screw on it (hm, Safari autocorrect thinks I should "lactate" them.) Anyone know if the plate screws are pre-loctited? They seem to have some kind of mark on them.



Since I was stuck waiting for parts on the Miata over the weekend, I decided to play with the Seven instead:



--Ian

 

Looks like an epic recovery. I am super interested in how you like the 2863gtx. I am going the same route as you so I don't have to replace my downpipe/exhaust manifold.

 

Yay, new block.




--Ian

 

Ooo! Ian has a build thread!

Good to see things happening man, keep up the good work!

 

Well, that didn't take long:




Ordered FM's rental bore plate, and I'm off to the machine shop with the block tomorrow.

Interestingly, my original 99 block had copper crush washers sealing the oil squirter banjo bolts, but neither the first replacement block (came from FM bored for the Supertechs -- dunno what vintage it was, somewhere in the 95-00 range) nor this one (out of a 10AE, I believe) did. The Mazdaspeed parts diagrams don't show the washers, either.

Also, the FM block has numbers cast into the main caps, this 10AE one doesn't.

--Ian