I started getting fuel surge almost immediately after going to sub 100tw tires. It's only a problem when accelerating out of a corner somewhere near the limit of grip. Would love to hear feedback from someone who has employed the Holley product in a stock tank/pump set up. Keeping at least 1/3 tank solves it for me, except for the unusable last 1/3 of the tank...

i have the 8x15" cross style hydramat in my 99 tank in my Exocet. I couldn't find a way to mate it to the stock fuel pump though, so I installed a Walbro 255lph external pump. I was able to run my car completely down to the point that I had to add fuel to restart it to get it off the trailer.

Track day on Friday, and the Miata has been acting up, randomly dying while driving. TK and I debugged it today, it would be fine backing out of the garage, up and down the street, but as soon as you got into the throttle and into the boost it would just fall over, sometimes coming back, sometimes completely dying and requiring a key off/on to come back. It would die right at 150 kpa, to within 3 or 4 kpa every time. Following the rule that "the last thing you touched is what you broke", we checked over the traction control system, bypassing it entirely, but it still failed. After poking at some logs and wiggling wires and doing other crazy things, I decided to throw a spare cam sensor in there and poof, it's all fixed. Argh. Now I need to go buy another spare.

I also put the TPMS on the tow rig. 10 sensors, a signal booster and a control module:

http://www.codrus.com/cars/tpd/tpms/tpms1.jpg

These are the type that screw onto the valve stem. I thought about the ones that go inside the rim, but decided that was a PITA, and I didn't really care about them being ugly on a trailer.

http://www.codrus.com/cars/tpd/tpms/tpms2.jpg

Signal booster goes in the trailer to make sure the receiver in the truck can pick up the trailer tires.

http://www.codrus.com/cars/tpd/tpms/tpms4.jpg

Control unit:

http://www.codrus.com/cars/tpd/tpms/tpms3.jpg

It can monitor up to 18 tires, you program which sensor is in which location, set base pressures, and it alerts for over/under pressure and over temp. Pretty cool. Haven't actually towed anywhere with it yet, but it seems to work. Here's a really boring video showing what it does:


--Ian

thats sweet

whats a compact disc?
​​​​​

Kinda like a DVD, but with less capacity.

Looks very cool. What does that thing weight? I'd worry about the centrifugal force pulling on the rubber section of the valve causing eventual fatigue failure, but that's just me.

I know these little doodads exist for a reason...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204362458.jpg

Maybe I'm overthinking it? Yeah. Probably overthinking it...

Or metal valve stems. I run them on my trailer since it saves money in the long run with the frequent tire replacements :)

You're overthinking it. :)​​​​​​

--Ian

Seriously, those inside the tire OEM pressure monitors are the most unreliable things I have ever encountered. Most flats are related to the things threaded parts being made from aluminum. Those things are the biggest scam OEM's have pulled on us before the TDI scam.

:bowrofl:

$100 for a new valve stem that will corrode and fail very soon. Or $1 for a real one that will out last your 60,000 mile all seasons.

​​​​​​
Rubber valve stems are a thousand times more reliable. If I had a car with pressure sensors in the tires, which I don't, thank goodness my wife doesn't mind older cars. I would go directly to the tire shop and replace all the sensors with rubber valve stems and keep the sensors as spares except for one in the spare tire to keep the dash light off.

I think your external sensor is a much better idea, personally.

that doesn't work in 99% of the modern cars

:crx:

A piece of electrical tape then and sell the sensors

In the mustang, in addition to the little yellow light that comes on (which would take a crazy amount of work to get to, if you wanted to tape it) it also illuminates a huge version of it on the "display screen", along with a chime, and you have to clear it by pressing "OK" every.....single........time....you start the car. Otherwise it won't show you all the menu's/gauges/different monitors.

So yeah. There's no shortcuts

kinda like this:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...35ab1e1e6e.jpg

My Mercedes does this, and it's stupid annoying. Wiper fluid low, and some other warning pop up all the time, and you have to "ok" through that crap every time you drive to see the gauges on the screen. And they even put a delay so a double tap of ok does nothing, you have to hit ok with a medium press, wait, then hit ok again with a medium press. Too fast, or too quick between press and you get nothing. WTF it's annoying. If I ever get it tuned, I want the tuner to change the crap to automatically go away after a few seconds on startup.

:bowrofl:

Clearly you guys need megasquirt for those things, well Vlad's selling so...

I bet MS3 won't even power that light unless you enable it.

Cars are pretty much all direction injection these days -- that's not something you can do with megasquirt.

--Ian

haha I bet just the body control modules on modern cars are more complex than an ms3