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For mirror and wheel hook, went with the brackets I used before the cage instead of making clearance. Helmet hook fit though.
Got the belts finished and put my cool suit back in. Although, I took the lap belts right back out. I tried pull down, but can not get them even remotely tight. Going to convert back to pull up.
Could be. Maybe like how left side nets are a thing now too. I've never really looked hard at any I've seen at the track, so didn't have any preconceived ideas before I started with it.
Left side nets have been a thing for years, just not common in amateur racing in the states were window nets are used instead of windows.
Ditched the door handle since it wasn't accessible with the net up and made a cable to open the door. Also took the triangle window out in the driver side and moved the vented one to the passenger side. Gridlife makes you do emergency exit with the door shut and I didn't fit well with that window there.
So if you can, put the upper door cards or something on the top of the door to help you get out of the car with the door closed. I bruised and scratched the **** out of my back last weekend testing my door closed egress with the pad not installed. With the pad installed it went much smoother. Also be prepared to remove the side mirror to make it easier to get out.
So if you can, put the upper door cards or something on the top of the door to help you get out of the car with the door closed. I bruised and scratched the **** out of my back last weekend testing my door closed egress with the pad not installed. With the pad installed it went much smoother. Also be prepared to remove the side mirror to make it easier to get out.
I'll keep that in mind. I've been practicing a dive out the window and crawl away instead of a normal exit so far. I need to get the car off stands and try it at a normal height.
So swapped in a new clutch and the pressure plate fingers are about 1/4" closer to the flywheel. Still not much room between the throw out bearing and clutch though. We're not really sure what's the issue right now. At least the throw out bearing spins now.
Are you resting your foot over the clutch pedal when you're not shifting or are you saying the height of the pressure plate fingers are 1/4" different between the two brands? It's obvious that it was slipping and killing itself during driving though from having the pressure plate be either too weak or partially pressed down by the release bearing.
Are you resting your foot over the clutch pedal when you're not shifting or are you saying the height of the pressure plate fingers are 1/4" different between the two brands? It's obvious that it was slipping and killing itself during driving though from having the pressure plate be either too weak or partially pressed down by the release bearing.
Just realized I never put any actual info in my posts...
So the TOB was pressing against the FM clutch constantly. It would never fully release. You can see the indentations from the pressure plate fingers sitting on the same spot on the bearing. This caused premature wear.
Our first thought was a difference in brands. FM makes such a big deal about master cylinder adjustment, we thought maybe the geometry was different. Sure enough, when I installed the new ACT, it was significantly different. However, that is a worn FM compared to a new ACT, so no real conclusion there.
Put the trans back on and now the TOB is just slightly clear of the clutch and should work properly. However, not a lot of space for wear. I will likely end up back in the same spot soon.
I've confirmed that I have the correct 6 speed piston in the slave cylinder. At this point we're stumped on what it could be. Kmiata says it's too tight still, but they've never seen this issue. Winning Formula has been helping me troubleshoot this a bunch, and they haven't run into this either. I think they've only put together 5 speeds with the z3 swap though.
sheet metal spacer between trans and adapter plate? Maybe Kmiata could help with burning one out quickly? That's my only off-the-wall idea..
Thats much better than the washers I might use instead.
I sent some measurements to KPower to see if anything is out of wack. Its 2.75" from bellhousing to throw out bearing. A random non-K 5 speed at Winning Formula was 2-7/8" resting and over 3" at maximum retraction.
Do you mean to tell me you have not had to replace your hydraulic release bearing?!?!?! I've replaced mine once and I have a spare......
I dunno the fix on this..... slipping can happen if the clutch pedal isn't adjusted properly, but that isn't the problem here. I'd just try a brand new release bearing from Kpower. I believe they have a much better new batch nowadays.
Do you mean to tell me you have not had to replace your hydraulic release bearing?!?!?! I've replaced mine once and I have a spare......
I dunno the fix on this..... slipping can happen if the clutch pedal isn't adjusted properly, but that isn't the problem here. I'd just try a brand new release bearing from Kpower. I believe they have a much better new batch nowadays.
Mine had been checked out already, but Emile just looked it over and it is out of spec. Kpower is sending a new unit out for me.
03-23-2021, 06:51 AM
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