HPDE NB1 fun car
#81
A bit late to influence any decisions but I'll give some feedback anyways.
I've had my steering depowered for most of my 8 years owning my NB2. The only time I don't like it is when parallel parking. I don't think it's great for autocross, at least for me. With high caster settings and turning the wheel almost 90*, I feel my steering inputs get to be less accurate. On the flip side, on track I've gone for up to an hour without feeling tired. The improvement in feel is absolutely worth it for me. I welded the pinion, but there's now a clicking sound when I turn the wheel stationary, so those welds may have broken. Oh well.
With respect to brake cooling, with that monster setup you won't run into any issues without ducts, at least until the turbo. My NB2 has the larger sport brakes and I ran Stoptech Sport pads almost down to the backing plate without issue with my full fat NB2 LS on 205/50R15 RT660s. Am I setting SM times? No, but I'm not at the back of the pack either. Pretty much any pad available for the Superlite/F88 shape should be more than capable of handling the heat. Cooling will help pad life though, so no need to delay it unnecessarily either. The matching Supermiata duct kit is the bulletproof option that will provide better cooling when the time comes, so why mess with half measures like deflectors? Much like the BBK has lower running costs on track than stock brakes, after a few sets of pads the ducts could pay for themselves if you can get more life out of the pads.
Rebuilt rear calipers are a crapshoot, but they're the same price as a rebuild kit so it can be a hard decision. One of my rebuilt calipers had issues with the parking brake constantly falling out of adjustment. It took me a few years to bite the bullet and get another one. No issues since. If you have any more issues and don't want to rebuild, maybe consider buying new?
I've had my steering depowered for most of my 8 years owning my NB2. The only time I don't like it is when parallel parking. I don't think it's great for autocross, at least for me. With high caster settings and turning the wheel almost 90*, I feel my steering inputs get to be less accurate. On the flip side, on track I've gone for up to an hour without feeling tired. The improvement in feel is absolutely worth it for me. I welded the pinion, but there's now a clicking sound when I turn the wheel stationary, so those welds may have broken. Oh well.
With respect to brake cooling, with that monster setup you won't run into any issues without ducts, at least until the turbo. My NB2 has the larger sport brakes and I ran Stoptech Sport pads almost down to the backing plate without issue with my full fat NB2 LS on 205/50R15 RT660s. Am I setting SM times? No, but I'm not at the back of the pack either. Pretty much any pad available for the Superlite/F88 shape should be more than capable of handling the heat. Cooling will help pad life though, so no need to delay it unnecessarily either. The matching Supermiata duct kit is the bulletproof option that will provide better cooling when the time comes, so why mess with half measures like deflectors? Much like the BBK has lower running costs on track than stock brakes, after a few sets of pads the ducts could pay for themselves if you can get more life out of the pads.
Rebuilt rear calipers are a crapshoot, but they're the same price as a rebuild kit so it can be a hard decision. One of my rebuilt calipers had issues with the parking brake constantly falling out of adjustment. It took me a few years to bite the bullet and get another one. No issues since. If you have any more issues and don't want to rebuild, maybe consider buying new?
Thanks that's not too bad for a brand new caliper. Might not be a bad option if the remanned ones act up.
Last edited by SlowTeg; 02-15-2024 at 04:15 PM.
#82
Signed up for a track weekend March 23-24 at Summit Point Shenandoah so gotta get my butt in gear and get the car done. It's the local track I've driven the most so I'll be interested to see how the Miata does. I'm just going to keep working and see what I can get done beforehand. I'm still waiting on my BMM ecu.
Regarding engine codes.. Will the stock ECU make the car run rough/odd if an EGR valve isn't plugged in at all? What about if I just blockoff the port? I remove the EGR exhaust tube in preparation for installing the new squaretop manifold and wanted to leave the EGR valve off completely. I don't want the car running poorly though. Eventually with the new ECU it won't be a problem but at this point I'm inclined to change the ecu/injectors/etc after the first track day.
I got some good work done last few days. Got the front suspension minus the swaybar all done and tightened. I got the BBK installed, dropped the rack and shipped out the pinion to get welded, Wilwood 1" MC installed, and the Wilwood prop valve mostly installed.. It took some fiddling and looking at other people's pictures to see how to route the lines. I'm reusing one factory hard line to connect a T for the front brakes.
I gotta say the pads are crazy thick with these calipers which means they should last a LOONG time. I'm sorry I didn't snap a pic of just the pads. Also, I test fitted a Konig Freeform 15x9.5 wheel and it clears the BBK no problem.
I hit one hiccup while installing the wilwood prop valve. My dumbass overtorqued the fitting and it bent. I guess I'm fortunate it didn't snap inside. The threads on these npt fittings were a little tight for sure, I could only get a few turns deep, but it is what it is. I emailed SM to get another one. A little annoying but not the end of the world. *sigh*
Sometimes I don't post my thoughts but some may ask why I opted to go with the Wilwood MC straight away.. Well, I have driven a couple Miatas (including this one) and the pedal isn't very firm. I'm hoping the 1" MC makes for a firmer pedal (it should). Plus, I was replacing so many things I figured might as well and not mess around and just put a new Wilwood in. The reviews I've read are favorable and no one seemed to prefer the stock MC after using the 1" Wilwood. I'm excited to get this thing on track next month.
Regarding engine codes.. Will the stock ECU make the car run rough/odd if an EGR valve isn't plugged in at all? What about if I just blockoff the port? I remove the EGR exhaust tube in preparation for installing the new squaretop manifold and wanted to leave the EGR valve off completely. I don't want the car running poorly though. Eventually with the new ECU it won't be a problem but at this point I'm inclined to change the ecu/injectors/etc after the first track day.
I got some good work done last few days. Got the front suspension minus the swaybar all done and tightened. I got the BBK installed, dropped the rack and shipped out the pinion to get welded, Wilwood 1" MC installed, and the Wilwood prop valve mostly installed.. It took some fiddling and looking at other people's pictures to see how to route the lines. I'm reusing one factory hard line to connect a T for the front brakes.
I gotta say the pads are crazy thick with these calipers which means they should last a LOONG time. I'm sorry I didn't snap a pic of just the pads. Also, I test fitted a Konig Freeform 15x9.5 wheel and it clears the BBK no problem.
I hit one hiccup while installing the wilwood prop valve. My dumbass overtorqued the fitting and it bent. I guess I'm fortunate it didn't snap inside. The threads on these npt fittings were a little tight for sure, I could only get a few turns deep, but it is what it is. I emailed SM to get another one. A little annoying but not the end of the world. *sigh*
Sometimes I don't post my thoughts but some may ask why I opted to go with the Wilwood MC straight away.. Well, I have driven a couple Miatas (including this one) and the pedal isn't very firm. I'm hoping the 1" MC makes for a firmer pedal (it should). Plus, I was replacing so many things I figured might as well and not mess around and just put a new Wilwood in. The reviews I've read are favorable and no one seemed to prefer the stock MC after using the 1" Wilwood. I'm excited to get this thing on track next month.
#83
Progress still happening fast! Nothing like a track day deadline to put a fire under your ***. The car's gonna rip once you get everything dialed in.
Having installed my Wilwood 1" MC just a couple days ago, I'm interested to hear about your install experience. I had to adjust my booster pushrod outward quite a bit to get it making good contact with the master cylinder. Didn't see anything about this in the instructions (although maybe I should've expected it due to the adapter bracket spacing the MC out a litle bit) and was very confused as to why my pedal was so low before making the adjustment. That being said, my pedal is VERY firm now. Don't think you'll desire any more firmness following the install haha.
What kind of MC brace are you using? Mine doesn't come even close to clearing the new MC due to the stopper being positioned so much closer to the firewall.
Having installed my Wilwood 1" MC just a couple days ago, I'm interested to hear about your install experience. I had to adjust my booster pushrod outward quite a bit to get it making good contact with the master cylinder. Didn't see anything about this in the instructions (although maybe I should've expected it due to the adapter bracket spacing the MC out a litle bit) and was very confused as to why my pedal was so low before making the adjustment. That being said, my pedal is VERY firm now. Don't think you'll desire any more firmness following the install haha.
What kind of MC brace are you using? Mine doesn't come even close to clearing the new MC due to the stopper being positioned so much closer to the firewall.
#84
Having installed my Wilwood 1" MC just a couple days ago, I'm interested to hear about your install experience. I had to adjust my booster pushrod outward quite a bit to get it making good contact with the master cylinder. Didn't see anything about this in the instructions (although maybe I should've expected it due to the adapter bracket spacing the MC out a litle bit) and was very confused as to why my pedal was so low before making the adjustment. That being said, my pedal is VERY firm now. Don't think you'll desire any more firmness following the install haha.
What kind of MC brace are you using? Mine doesn't come even close to clearing the new MC due to the stopper being positioned so much closer to the firewall.
What kind of MC brace are you using? Mine doesn't come even close to clearing the new MC due to the stopper being positioned so much closer to the firewall.
The MC brace is a V8R. It's made for the wilwood MC.
#85
Just a few more quick pictures and measurements. I was impressed with how thick the pads were so took out the caliper. The pad material (not including backing plate) is roughly .6" thick for each pad.
The rotors are beefy at roughly 1.25" thick.
I think I'll have plenty of brake capacity even w/o ducts when I install the turbo. I don't mind brakes a little on the bigger side.
The rotors are beefy at roughly 1.25" thick.
I think I'll have plenty of brake capacity even w/o ducts when I install the turbo. I don't mind brakes a little on the bigger side.
#86
Not sure if I missed it, but what pads are you currently running with the BBK? Rather than change what wasn't broken, I just got a set of Stoptech Sport pads for my F88 setup. With the 1" master you should have insanely good pedal feel. I've considered moving up to it, but my 15/16" MC was recently replaced and would show less of a difference than the 7/8" you started with.
Who are you running with at Summit Point? I'd like to get up there this year, but it's a 5 hour drive for me. It would be cool to chase a similarly modified Miata.
Who are you running with at Summit Point? I'd like to get up there this year, but it's a 5 hour drive for me. It would be cool to chase a similarly modified Miata.
#87
Not sure if I missed it, but what pads are you currently running with the BBK? Rather than change what wasn't broken, I just got a set of Stoptech Sport pads for my F88 setup. With the 1" master you should have insanely good pedal feel. I've considered moving up to it, but my 15/16" MC was recently replaced and would show less of a difference than the 7/8" you started with.
Who are you running with at Summit Point? I'd like to get up there this year, but it's a 5 hour drive for me. It would be cool to chase a similarly modified Miata.
Who are you running with at Summit Point? I'd like to get up there this year, but it's a 5 hour drive for me. It would be cool to chase a similarly modified Miata.
I meant to compare them to a Stoptech street pad. I did a quick search and couldn't find a similar graph of the Stoptech street pads but I think I shouldn't have an issue with fade N/A.
It's an SCCA event. That's a hike. It's only about 1.5hrs for me which makes it convenient. Another friend is also signed up for the event (not a Miata) but the more the merrier as always at the track.
#88
Anyone running a stock intake with the skunk2 TB? The larger diameter means the stock pipe won't fit. I was thinking of installing the squaretop manifold before the track day but really don't want to buy another intake that I will only use very briefly (I might be installing the turbo after the March event). I was thinking of different ways to ghetto rig it. Thing is MAF sensors don't like air leaks so it has to seal.
Another thing that I will install is a water pressure dummy light. I've seen some strange failures (like the pressed water fitting down by the water pump breaking) that caused people to lose engines. Thx to some folks on the FB group for sharing it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all80250 It's cheap and simple and can just put an inline switch between the sensor and the LED for the street when I don't want it shining. I think I'll try to install the SM coolant reroute before the March event.
Another thing that I will install is a water pressure dummy light. I've seen some strange failures (like the pressed water fitting down by the water pump breaking) that caused people to lose engines. Thx to some folks on the FB group for sharing it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all80250 It's cheap and simple and can just put an inline switch between the sensor and the LED for the street when I don't want it shining. I think I'll try to install the SM coolant reroute before the March event.
#89
Two comments on the Junk2.
You can get silicon reducers to make the merge between the J2 and the intake, that's what I did on my atmo racecar. You will have to make some adjustments to make the fit. I had an aluminium one made up for the turbo inlet.
.You should port your intake manifold to make the transition between the J2 and the manifold gentler than an angular step. I just did this when I installed my latest J2 on my new flattop, did it on the racecar too.
I have a water pressure sensor which I will be plugging into my new electronic instrument panel. Temperature sensors don't work when there is nothing there to sense! I haven't looked, but I am assuming you have done the Rx on the J2?
You can get silicon reducers to make the merge between the J2 and the intake, that's what I did on my atmo racecar. You will have to make some adjustments to make the fit. I had an aluminium one made up for the turbo inlet.
.You should port your intake manifold to make the transition between the J2 and the manifold gentler than an angular step. I just did this when I installed my latest J2 on my new flattop, did it on the racecar too.
I have a water pressure sensor which I will be plugging into my new electronic instrument panel. Temperature sensors don't work when there is nothing there to sense! I haven't looked, but I am assuming you have done the Rx on the J2?
#90
I've been running that way for almost two years now.
I got it to fit by warming up the throttle body, boiling some water, and using that to warm up the crossover pipe before slipping it over the throttle body.
I also recommend you knock down the sharp edge on the barb of the throttle body before you do this.
I got it to fit by warming up the throttle body, boiling some water, and using that to warm up the crossover pipe before slipping it over the throttle body.
I also recommend you knock down the sharp edge on the barb of the throttle body before you do this.
#92
I've been running that way for almost two years now.
I got it to fit by warming up the throttle body, boiling some water, and using that to warm up the crossover pipe before slipping it over the throttle body.
I also recommend you knock down the sharp edge on the barb of the throttle body before you do this.
I got it to fit by warming up the throttle body, boiling some water, and using that to warm up the crossover pipe before slipping it over the throttle body.
I also recommend you knock down the sharp edge on the barb of the throttle body before you do this.
Last edited by SlowTeg; 02-20-2024 at 11:35 AM.
#93
That is completely stock, no coupler or anything. I made a thread on my install of the TB here. It goes beyond the standard well known fixes required.
As I said in that thread, I am still fighting idle control issues with the stock ECU. I'm currently doing some more work to the car hoping to get them resolved. I think most people using the S2 TB are going to be on a standalone of some sort and have an aftermarket intake of some kind, which is why there isn't much documentation out there on crossover pipe fitting or complaints about idle control.
As I said in that thread, I am still fighting idle control issues with the stock ECU. I'm currently doing some more work to the car hoping to get them resolved. I think most people using the S2 TB are going to be on a standalone of some sort and have an aftermarket intake of some kind, which is why there isn't much documentation out there on crossover pipe fitting or complaints about idle control.
#94
That is completely stock, no coupler or anything. I made a thread on my install of the TB here. It goes beyond the standard well known fixes required.
As I said in that thread, I am still fighting idle control issues with the stock ECU. I'm currently doing some more work to the car hoping to get them resolved. I think most people using the S2 TB are going to be on a standalone of some sort and have an aftermarket intake of some kind, which is why there isn't much documentation out there on crossover pipe fitting or complaints about idle control.
As I said in that thread, I am still fighting idle control issues with the stock ECU. I'm currently doing some more work to the car hoping to get them resolved. I think most people using the S2 TB are going to be on a standalone of some sort and have an aftermarket intake of some kind, which is why there isn't much documentation out there on crossover pipe fitting or complaints about idle control.
#95
Having installed my Wilwood 1" MC just a couple days ago, I'm interested to hear about your install experience. I had to adjust my booster pushrod outward quite a bit to get it making good contact with the master cylinder. Didn't see anything about this in the instructions (although maybe I should've expected it due to the adapter bracket spacing the MC out a litle bit) and was very confused as to why my pedal was so low before making the adjustment. That being said, my pedal is VERY firm now. Don't think you'll desire any more firmness following the install haha.
#96
Oh shucks, no I didn't do anything on the booster side haha. My bad for the vague explanation. I just adjusted the pedal throw under the dashboard until there was only a tiny dead spot before the pedal engaged the brakes. I actually ended up adding adding a little free play after adjusting to zero play because the pedal felt too high initially. My pedal adjustment rod is just about where yours is, maybe a bit less thread showing on the pedal side. I can post a pic of it here tonight.
#97
Oh shucks, no I didn't do anything on the booster side haha. My bad for the vague explanation. I just adjusted the pedal throw under the dashboard until there was only a tiny dead spot before the pedal engaged the brakes. I actually ended up adding adding a little free play after adjusting to zero play because the pedal felt too high initially. My pedal adjustment rod is just about where yours is, maybe a bit less thread showing on the pedal side. I can post a pic of it here tonight.
Another thing I just found while googling.. does the MC need to create a seal against the booster? I saw some other people mention it in another thread but maybe a different booster works differently..? I threw out the old MC so I can't go take a look and see if there's some kind of seal/o-ring for the flange where the MC mounts to the booster. I don't remember there being one..
#98
On another note big thanks to Ed at 949 for shipping the replacement fitting out quick for the Wilwood prop valve. I don't love how tight the npt fittings are so I got a 1/8" npt tap and ran it in the threads of the wilwood prop valve so the 1/8" npt fitting would get an extra turn.
Here's the brake system all installed and it's been bled. I'll probably have to rebleed it down the road (as there might still be some air in the lines) but the pedal is semi stiff. I had an old unopened bottle of ATE super blue that I used after dropping a bottle of brake fluid and making a mess while trying to bench bleed the wilwood MC. Make sure you bench bleed the MC first guys. I installed it w/o bench bleeding it like a noob and had to pull it to bench bleed it. Not too big a deal but I should've known better.
Oh yes also, Zak or anyone else.. How many turns do you have on the Wilwood prop valve..?
Here's the brake system all installed and it's been bled. I'll probably have to rebleed it down the road (as there might still be some air in the lines) but the pedal is semi stiff. I had an old unopened bottle of ATE super blue that I used after dropping a bottle of brake fluid and making a mess while trying to bench bleed the wilwood MC. Make sure you bench bleed the MC first guys. I installed it w/o bench bleeding it like a noob and had to pull it to bench bleed it. Not too big a deal but I should've known better.
Oh yes also, Zak or anyone else.. How many turns do you have on the Wilwood prop valve..?
#99
That's what I'm assuming as far as adjustment goes. Mine worked fine and I didn't die this weekend so there's some... anecdotal data lol.
In all seriousness, I really am interested in what scenario the booster rod would need to be adjusted from the booster side. I removed my MC after adjusting the pedal stroke just to make damn sure the rod wasn't preloading the MC or anything (it wasn't). I can't imagine needing to use the entire adjustment range of the brake pedal throw rod with a stock MC. With where mine is at currently, the stock MC would almost certainly have the brakes locked haha.
I believe the NB2 boosters are of a different design and need the MC to seal against the booster itself.
That's a great idea tapping the prop valve threads. I remember when I installed mine last year, I was initially baffled by how few threads engage before reaching max torque on the fittings. I'm still not dead, but should probably do the same thing!
In all seriousness, I really am interested in what scenario the booster rod would need to be adjusted from the booster side. I removed my MC after adjusting the pedal stroke just to make damn sure the rod wasn't preloading the MC or anything (it wasn't). I can't imagine needing to use the entire adjustment range of the brake pedal throw rod with a stock MC. With where mine is at currently, the stock MC would almost certainly have the brakes locked haha.
Another thing I just found while googling.. does the MC need to create a seal against the booster? I saw some other people mention it in another thread but maybe a different booster works differently..? I threw out the old MC so I can't go take a look and see if there's some kind of seal/o-ring for the flange where the MC mounts to the booster. I don't remember there being one..
That's a great idea tapping the prop valve threads. I remember when I installed mine last year, I was initially baffled by how few threads engage before reaching max torque on the fittings. I'm still not dead, but should probably do the same thing!
#100
That's what I'm assuming as far as adjustment goes. Mine worked fine and I didn't die this weekend so there's some... anecdotal data lol.
In all seriousness, I really am interested in what scenario the booster rod would need to be adjusted from the booster side. I removed my MC after adjusting the pedal stroke just to make damn sure the rod wasn't preloading the MC or anything (it wasn't). I can't imagine needing to use the entire adjustment range of the brake pedal throw rod with a stock MC. With where mine is at currently, the stock MC would almost certainly have the brakes locked haha.
In all seriousness, I really am interested in what scenario the booster rod would need to be adjusted from the booster side. I removed my MC after adjusting the pedal stroke just to make damn sure the rod wasn't preloading the MC or anything (it wasn't). I can't imagine needing to use the entire adjustment range of the brake pedal throw rod with a stock MC. With where mine is at currently, the stock MC would almost certainly have the brakes locked haha.
I believe the NB2 boosters are of a different design and need the MC to seal against the booster itself.
That's a great idea tapping the prop valve threads. I remember when I installed mine last year, I was initially baffled by how few threads engage before reaching max torque on the fittings. I'm still not dead, but should probably do the same thing!
That's a great idea tapping the prop valve threads. I remember when I installed mine last year, I was initially baffled by how few threads engage before reaching max torque on the fittings. I'm still not dead, but should probably do the same thing!
Something new I bought and tried that I thought would help would be a manual handheld vacuum bleeder. Maybe I wasn't using it properly but it seems like a pita. The manual handheld pump bleeder seems to pull air through the threads of the bleeder valves so I just went with the old tried and true 2 person bleed method and some gravity bleeding. I know there are some fancy power bleeders that pressure the MC with an air compressor and a fitted cap but sometimes the specialty tools aren't worth the headache unless you do that specific job a lot.
I need to get the car back on the ground, set the ride height, roll the fenders, and then take it for an alignment. I would like to run a leakdown on the motor just as a baseline to see where it's at but the old owner of the car contacted me and told me it's been well cared for so that's some good news. I will put off changing the timing belt/water pump as it was likely changed only a few years ago. I might install the new IM/S2 TB/coolant reroute before the upcoming track weekend. Also I will install a simple coolant pressure dummy light. I've read a few stories on here how the press fit water lines broke and people lost a motor. Here's a link to it on amazon. So it doesn't bother me on the street, I'll put a switch inline with the sensor so it can be off most of the time. Regarding my other seat.. it looks like the package might be lost which sucks. Hopefully that'll get figured out soon. I also might try and get the harness installed for the driver's side before the event.