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I used to sell vacuum street sweeper trucks. They use velocity to suspend and keep suspended water, sand, dirt, gravel, leaves, and other debris as they travel through 12-in diameter pipes. They then have a large collection area for settling all of those things out of the air stream by slowing the travel speed of the air and having it travel through an area 7 ft wide, 12 ft long, and 5 ft high. With the reduction of velocity of the air pretty much everything is deposited in the debris tank. The lessons from these things are fairly universal in application.
I love universally applicable knowledge like this lol.
RASKAR, you getting close to the first start with that new pump?
I love universally applicable knowledge like this lol.
RASKAR, you getting close to the first start with that new pump?
Going back out there today. I got it together enough to crank it over last night and we have confirmed oil pressure with the new pump while cranking! Hope to finish putting all the accessories, bumper, aero, etc on tonight and get it onto the trailer and back home.
Status as of last night:
I would have liked to have worked on it more yesterday but I had to get rear brakes done on the ranger so I could be ready to tow the car back today. Turns out rotors don't like doing water crossings and then coming off the hub again later...
Nice, glad to hear that! In regards to your oil pressure, not the brakes lol.
Stuck rotors suck. My roommate picked up a 1500 GMC Sierra last year that had been sitting outside for 8 months. The Saturday he went to swap the brakes on it in our garage, I swear I heard him swinging a sledgehammer at one of the rotors for over an hour
Got the car back home and unloaded. Going to put a few street miles on it hopefully tonight, but it looks like rain. Maybe tomorrow, just to make sure it seems okay. Then gotta throw the splitter and brack ducts back on and swap back to the 245s and I will be ready-ish. Still have to decide what to do about the original problem of oil blasting out of the breather. While the pan was out I put another AN fitting on it and just capped it so it's ready for a catch can drain if I decide to go that route, or I pull the valve cover and add another vent to the exhaust side and blank off the pcv side... I wish I had more time to experiment with it.
Nice work! And good job catching the oil pressure issue so quickly, it sounds like you didn't run the car much without pressure so I'm sure it's fine.
As for the PCV breathing I think you'll have to experiment. It could be the hole sizes in the baffles themselves being the choke point (causing high velocities). One thing you might try is a 2nd catch can (for temporary) and run each side to its own can to see which side of the VC is filling up the can. I personally suspect that pass side is the issue (from my own experience), though it sounds like you thought the opposite.
Nice work! And good job catching the oil pressure issue so quickly, it sounds like you didn't run the car much without pressure so I'm sure it's fine.
As for the PCV breathing I think you'll have to experiment. It could be the hole sizes in the baffles themselves being the choke point (causing high velocities). One thing you might try is a 2nd catch can (for temporary) and run each side to its own can to see which side of the VC is filling up the can. I personally suspect that pass side is the issue (from my own experience), though it sounds like you thought the opposite.
Yeah it only ran for sub-10 seconds at idle with no oil pressure so hopefully everything is fine. I will probably end up enlarging the holes in-between the baffles as recommended as that shouldn't take too much time. Running the second can is a good idea I hadn't thought of, that would definitely tell me which side is the issue. I was thinking it was a driver side issue only because I was seeing smoke after right hand turns both times, but the can could have filled in a left hand turn before and just sprayed out the following turn. I don't have any hard evidence to support that so if the generally accepted info is that it is usually the passenger side causing the issue I would tend to believe that then. I think I still have my old can laying around so I may try to rig up a dual can setup. Thanks for the suggestion, cat for you sir
I present the convoluted PCV setup 3000. Since I can't really afford to guess wrong and dump oil all over the car again this weekend, I tried to just implement all of the suggestions.
Added additional holes between the center and exhaust side chambers. Not as many as I wanted but it was a pain to drill and I am on very limited time haha
Added a second 10an fitting to the exhaust side chamber. Not pretty but I wanted to make sure it didn't leak since it is only threaded into pretty thin cast aluminum, so Hondabond to the rescue.
Added an 8an drain port to the catch can and the oil pan.
And I am running each side of the valve cover to separate cans to try and get a better idea of which side is causing the issue. The large can that now has a drain goes to both exhaust side ports. The smaller blue can goes to just the pcv side.
So if the theory is correct, I should still fill the blue can. If that happens I have AN caps so I will remove the can and cap off the pcv side port on the valve cover and run just off the other can.
Now just gotta swap wheels, put on the splitter and brake ducts, maybe test drive the car for more than 30 seconds, and then load everything up and hopefully see some of you this weekend!
Interested to see what comes of the breather solution. I meant to mention this earlier, but I'm gonna do some experimenting with the setup on my car. I have my valve cover and internal ports drilled out and tapped with -10an fittings. Each breather goes to its own vented catch can. The intake side can usually picks up next to nothing, but I can fill the exhaust side can in a few 15-20 minute track sessions. The intake side, however, comes out of the VC pointing upward, and the can is slightly higher than the VC itself. The opposite is true on my exhaust side. The breather hose exits flat and then points downward to get to the can. I'm pretty sure you want your catch can higher than the VC, stuff drains downward ya know. I'm just gonna start by cutting a longer AN line and putting an upward bend in it, so that at least some blowby will try to drain back into the VC rather than into the can. Looks like this might be irrelevant to your setup but thought I'd share anyways.
Good luck this weekend! I'll be watching the livestream.
Holy crap, quick work! I'll be following to see what you find. Goodluck this weekend!
Thanks!
Originally Posted by Z_WAAAAAZ
Interested to see what comes of the breather solution. I meant to mention this earlier, but I'm gonna do some experimenting with the setup on my car. I have my valve cover and internal ports drilled out and tapped with -10an fittings. Each breather goes to its own vented catch can. The intake side can usually picks up next to nothing, but I can fill the exhaust side can in a few 15-20 minute track sessions. The intake side, however, comes out of the VC pointing upward, and the can is slightly higher than the VC itself. The opposite is true on my exhaust side. The breather hose exits flat and then points downward to get to the can. I'm pretty sure you want your catch can higher than the VC, stuff drains downward ya know. I'm just gonna start by cutting a longer AN line and putting an upward bend in it, so that at least some blowby will try to drain back into the VC rather than into the can. Looks like this might be irrelevant to your setup but thought I'd share anyways.
Good luck this weekend! I'll be watching the livestream.
Cool, I'm interested in the results. I will make sure I update on here how my setup fairs as well. My gut said the exhaust side was filling my can but amI had no evidence. Now with the two can setup we should be able to figure it out for my car at least.
Dang, that's a setup and a half. If you didn't have that drain I wonder how fast those would fill up? It seems like the additional holes/space would allow way more to get through to the catch cans, but I guess that's kinda the point? Did you go with scrubbers or not?
I'm still a fan of my (patent pending) Blender Bottle catch can. It's nice to be able to glance at the fluid level since the plastic is clear. Before enlarging the valve cover hole it didn't get any accumulation. After enlargement, it filled up 100 ml or so during a weekend of autocross. I'm wondering if I didn't get the baffles sealed as well after enlarging the holes. Might have to go back and check that later.
Dang, that's a setup and a half. If you didn't have that drain I wonder how fast those would fill up? It seems like the additional holes/space would allow way more to get through to the catch cans, but I guess that's kinda the point? Did you go with scrubbers or not?
I'm still a fan of my (patent pending) Blender Bottle catch can. It's nice to be able to glance at the fluid level since the plastic is clear. Before enlarging the valve cover hole it didn't get any accumulation. After enlargement, it filled up 100 ml or so during a weekend of autocross. I'm wondering if I didn't get the baffles sealed as well after enlarging the holes. Might have to go back and check that later.
The holes inside the baffles being opened up should mean less oil gets in. Smaller holes with the same amount of air = higher velocity, and air velocity is what carries the oil droplets and vapor into the can.
My experience was the opposite of yours, with a stock hotside breather and PCV deleted (used coldside as a vent as well) my car would fill up the catch can in a single session. Now with all venting going out the hot-side, with punched out holes in the baffles, and larger lines from the VC I'm able to run an entire weekend with maybe a tbsp or 2 of accumulation.
The holes inside the baffles being opened up should mean less oil gets in. Smaller holes with the same amount of air = higher velocity, and air velocity is what carries the oil droplets and vapor into the can.
My experience was the opposite of yours, with a stock hotside breather and PCV deleted (used coldside as a vent as well) my car would fill up the catch can in a single session. Now with all venting going out the hot-side, with punched out holes in the baffles, and larger lines from the VC I'm able to run an entire weekend with maybe a tbsp or 2 of accumulation.
YMMV.
I might have to check my sealing on the baffles then. Mine is catching exponentially more after drilling out the baffles. I'll put it on the list for next time I get the VC off.
Well starting with the good-ish, I got two decent session in on Sunday finally. The car/brakes would still get a little hot if I went full bore for a full session, so I ended up coming in a lap or two early my first session Sunday, and later that day just doing 2-3 flyers then a 3/4 speed semi-cooldown and that seemed to work pretty good. I managed a 1:38.7 which I think is alright for the car. I could certainly gain some more time by braking at the 3 or 4 on the back straight, but as you will see below I was plagued by brake issues all weekend. Ironic, as brake issues are also what I dealt with when I last ran Gridlife Mid-O 5 years ago haha. Here is a video of my fast lap from Sunday:
Alright now for the full weekend recap. My first session out Friday the brakes were feeling okay for about two laps and then the pedal just kept getting worse and worse each lap. I come in after the session to this:
These were basically brand new so not what I was expecting to see. At the time I really didn't know what was going on, but I started my search for new brake parts. I ordered pads to bring as spares but of course I left them sitting on my toolbox at home. After awhile I managed to snag a set of spare rear pads from @doward and got some rotors shipped to a local O'Reillys, but they didn't get there until after my second session that day. Got everything back together later Friday night just in time to make the miata gathering. Its a pain for ducting to keep functional pop-ups, but it was all worth it now:
Shes just happy to be there haha
Friday night while chilling with the Hawk guys I just kept going over my setup trying to figure out why I would have eaten my rear brakes so quick. I thought maybe I had my lines routed wrong to the Wilwood master and after going down that rabbit hole for awhile and finding a GLTC car with the same master and lines routed the same way, I didn't think it was that. While talking to the guy with the GLTC NB (If you are on here, very sorry I forgot your name!) I remembered that during the session Friday I didn't lock either of my fronts up at all. Running 4 piston fronts with DTC60s and stock size NA8 rear everything, I always was able to lock up a front if I went too hard on the brakes. Yet, on Friday I was going really hard on the pedal because of the rear brake issue and yet never even got close to locking a front wheel. So that's when it clicked to me as a bias issue. To install the wilwood master I had to delete the factory proportioning valve, and I for some reason at the time didn't think anything of that. Well as far as I could find, the wilwood is 50/50 piston split between the front and rear. So I basically had gone from a 70/30 or whatever aggressively front biased the stock setup is, to a 1" master with 50/50 split but still on stock NA8 rear calipers. This seemed to both under drive the front brakes which not only put more of the load of slowing down onto the rear, but also over drive the rears. Knowing this I didn't want to just go out again Saturday morning on my new rotors and Dan's only spare pads. So I scrubbed the morning session as well and drove my *** up to Summit racing and bought everything I needed to throw a prop valve onto the car.
Not where I wanted to be during my first session Saturday...
Got back and got everything installed. Its not ideal routing or anything but it was the best I could do with the lines and fittings Summit had in stock.
Not having had one of these before, and wanting to validate my issue, I set it to full front bias, which should net a 75/25 split front to rear. My session wasn't great but I could really easy lock the fronts and I also still had rear pad when I came back in so it was a win for me! I started messing around with the valve and got it decent by Sunday morning, and pretty good by Sunday afternoon. But of course, fixing this car doesn't result in a fixed car, just an opportunity to fix the next issue. After coming in from my second session on Sunday I grabbed my tire pressures and my gopro and noticed my car was pissing all over the floor. Pic was after rolling the car backwards.
It was really hard to finally find where it was coming from, as from the bottom it was dropping off of my turbo oil drain fitting that goes into the pan, which made no sense since it was water. Eventually I found the culprit, one of the P/S line claps got its tail bent up somehow and had punctured my lower rad hose..... always something.
I didn't bring a spare rad hose of course, and it was already Sunday afternoon so I just called it there. Let the car cool down and got everything loaded up. I didn't know it then but this would be the last time all this setup will be together.
Well I gotta run for now, I told the wife I would go to her horse show today so out of time for now. I will make another post hopefully tomorrow to finish out the PCV/breather saga. Also about the future plans for this car, but I will leave you with this, the Ranger is already gone haha
Well that is a much worse series of events than I was aware of! Sorry for all the headaches dudes. Thats no fun.
Yeahh its all good. I really appreciate you letting me have those pads though, as without that I wouldn't of gotten any of the track time I did Sunday! One day this car will be reliable on track, but that day just hasn't arrived yet lol
Couldn't catch a break that weekend, but nice job tracking down parts and tackling issues. With brake bias sorted and confidence in brake zones/trail you're gonna melt away a ton of time.
06-25-2024, 01:41 PM
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