When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The 1.8L FPR's vacuum nipple faces into the cylinder head IIRC, so your vacuum line will eventually tear, lean the motor out, and blow it up. The 1.6L FPR works, you just have to straighten that nipple out. Alternatively, you can source the EUDM 99-00 FPR from a return-style NB, which drops in and fits perfectly. Even fires the fuel line down, which is slightly preferred over the upside-down 1.6L FPR which puts the return line up.
Are you talking about the in-tank FPR from an nb? I searched for a bit for EUDM FPRs and not coming up with anything. As far as fitment for a 1.8 FPR goes, how would something like this fare? Fuel Delivery System / Fuel Rail I'm averse to adding more lines than I need to because that just opens up more opportunities for leaks, but I'm curious what people's thoughts are on the firewall mounted fuel "rail".
Are you talking about the in-tank FPR from an nb? I searched for a bit for EUDM FPRs and not coming up with anything. As far as fitment for a 1.8 FPR goes, how would something like this fare? Fuel Delivery System / Fuel Rail I'm averse to adding more lines than I need to because that just opens up more opportunities for leaks, but I'm curious what people's thoughts are on the firewall mounted fuel "rail".
No, I mean the EUDM/JDM return-style NB regulator. It was not a US part and is a little hard to find in the US. The 1.6L FPR does the same job, just not quite as cleanly.
I would never run that kind of fuel delivery system on my car.
The problem being their claim that fuel injectors don't get even pressure? I understand I have a couple options for this FPR issue, and i would like to keep things simple if possible. For my current potential setup, is there any reason I shouldn't just get an aftermarket rail and fpr? FWIW I'm a noob with a big budget, so I want to learn this thing in and out and get what it takes to make this car as reliable as possible. I'm still combing through different threads to see what you guys have done before to hopefully eliminate the dumbest of questions
Last edited by Philly Miata; 12-11-2016 at 10:48 PM.
where has this info been for the dozen NB swaps I've done. Does this mean 60psi? Off to scour eBay.
Pretty sure it is 43.5 + reference. I bought (2) used ones from England and am using one. In Japan it fed from the unused nipple right on top of the NB1 manifold for a neat install. See my build thread, post 79.
PM me if you are interested in my 2nd one. $28 delivered.
Else, search for BP5B13280 and it will be about $30 delivered from England.
Last edited by DNMakinson; 12-15-2016 at 08:22 AM.
Reason: Added post number
Pretty sure it is 43.5 + reference. I bought (2) used ones from England and am using one. In Japan it fed from the unused nipple right on top of the NB1 manifold for a neat install. See my build thread, post 79.
PM me if you are interested in my 2nd one. $28 delivered.
Else, search for BP5B13280 and it will be about $30 delivered from England.
Sick! Thanks for the part number, just ordered one.
Been steadily getting parts in the mail. Ordered a big assortment of nuts and bolts from McMaster and Bolt Depot to replace stuff that needs to be replaced. Good ones were 4 M10x1.5 10mm bolts for plugging the oil jets. ID1000s came today from 949. Yesterday got my wideband and gauge, Walbro 255, and BE oil pump. Other parts that I have now are my short shifter, poly bushings kit, depowered steering rack from Hahnlsquid, ACT XT 6 puck and pressure plate, Gates water pump, SuperMiata Damper, new master and slave cylinders, Hawley LS coil brackets and coils with custom plug wires, probably more stuff I've forgotten but that's the major stuff. I've finished assembling my MS3X but need to adjust the pots and put the harness connector together. I think I have just about everything I need to start putting the short block together. I'll drill and tap my oil pan this weekend, gonna do TSE's turbo kit and that comes with all the fittings and lines.
Some things left to buy: wheels/tires, radiator and coolant reroute, IC, BOV and charge piping, turbo kit, alternator belt...small stuff
Got my EUDM NB FPR as recommended, I can't wait to start putting this thing together
Last edited by Philly Miata; 01-11-2017 at 07:56 PM.
I have some individual pictures, i want to do a total picture sometime today, it'll look awesome.
Brackets not pictured, Hawley Performance sent me some D585s Cleaned up the 6 speed Scrub a dub din, just simple green, degreaser, wire brushes, steel wool and elbow grease Dirty, compare to above picture MS3X kind of done-ish Gates Water Pump, master and slave, Moss had a discount on stuff and i got a bushing kit, might as well. SuperMiata Damper. I didn't go ATI because this was cheaper and seemed to be made FOR the car, looks great. Nielex Joy Stick off of Rev9 ACT XT 6 puck, I went this way just to overbuild the car where I can, I inderstand it's a wear part, probably won't be amazing to street a lot, but again, overbuild and take a step back next time rather than find out if things break. Hahnlsquid makes depowered steering racks. Thanks again to him EUDM FPR for NB, ideally, as I was told, this should do well to drop in and not give space or angular issues with lines.