FRT's Build
#61
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Location: Arizona
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Hah, well it will be the car I use soon. I drove my Accord home from base, but I'll be driving this back ![big grin](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Finally got the MS working pretty good. I still have no CLT signal (reads *170) also no Tach. Those are the only 2 things holding me back. The car drives great and has a lot more power with the same boost compared to the Voodoo. This might also be contributed to a minor vacuum leak we fixed. Holding off on bumping the boost up to 10psi until I get the CLT and Tach issue figured out.
![big grin](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Finally got the MS working pretty good. I still have no CLT signal (reads *170) also no Tach. Those are the only 2 things holding me back. The car drives great and has a lot more power with the same boost compared to the Voodoo. This might also be contributed to a minor vacuum leak we fixed. Holding off on bumping the boost up to 10psi until I get the CLT and Tach issue figured out.
#62
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Well I have the MS for the most part tuned. Reading up on what I can do about the spark tables without a dyno. Cold start sucks so bad with no CLT. Still trying to figure out the tach issue. Installed the front lip last night and it looks amazing.
Update: Installed the R-Package spoiler. Installed LSD differential, the damn pinion seal is leaking. So looks like I will be replacing that tomorrow.
Update: Installed the R-Package spoiler. Installed LSD differential, the damn pinion seal is leaking. So looks like I will be replacing that tomorrow.
Last edited by FRT_Fun; 02-13-2010 at 02:14 AM.
#63
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http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/2435/dsc00102zo.jpg
That is what I did today, wow that sucked getting it out. I was hoping to retain most of the fluid in the diff so I did not drain it (Put new KAAZ fluid in the night before after break-in to get it home). Sooo it leaked on me for a good 10 minutes well I fiddled with the seal. The cold weather did not help. Now that it is out it all seems worth it though. Getting the new one from Mazda on Wednesday.
Got my slave cylinder today and will be installing tomorrow, hopefully that fixes the damn clutch drag issue.
Still need to install frog arms and sub frame braces. I will do the frog arms tomorrow probably and the subframe brace when I get everything back together after I put the new pinion seal in.
That is what I did today, wow that sucked getting it out. I was hoping to retain most of the fluid in the diff so I did not drain it (Put new KAAZ fluid in the night before after break-in to get it home). Sooo it leaked on me for a good 10 minutes well I fiddled with the seal. The cold weather did not help. Now that it is out it all seems worth it though. Getting the new one from Mazda on Wednesday.
Got my slave cylinder today and will be installing tomorrow, hopefully that fixes the damn clutch drag issue.
Still need to install frog arms and sub frame braces. I will do the frog arms tomorrow probably and the subframe brace when I get everything back together after I put the new pinion seal in.
Last edited by FRT_Fun; 02-15-2010 at 04:43 PM.
#65
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I actually ended up getting a 1.8L carrier with a KAAZ lsd inside from a member on here. As for the RX7 differential it's fairly simple as it is an 88'. I would have followed this guide:
SOURCE: Miata Turbo FAQ: Differential
SOURCE: Miata Turbo FAQ: Differential
2. 86-88 RX7 assembly conversion:
Parts:
86-88 RX7 NON-TURBO differential assembly
94-95 Miata stub shafts or RX7 stub shafts and 94-95 Miata half-shafts
or 96-05 Miata axles (no stubs needed)
RX7 Circlips (fit onto the end of the stubs/axles, miata clips will not fit)
94-05 Miata driveshaft
Miata Ring and Pinion
Miata Pinion housing (pumpkin) (find at RX7 performance shops)
Miata Diff. Bushings
Proceedure:
Open the RX7 assembly. Decide what ring and pinon to use. Bolt the correct ring gear to the RX7 LSD. Swap the pinon gear and lsd guts to the miata pinon housing. Set the backlash (and pinon depth if swapping pinon gear), and assemble the miata pinon housing to the RX7 housing. Drill out the RX7 diff bushings and push in miata specfic bushings. Install as normal.
*note: The 84-85 LSD will fit, however, the housing is not compatible….unless you want to convert to a solid rear axle
*note: If converting to a RX7 Clutch LSD, simply avoid units from 84-85 models. While the LSD is technically the same, they come out of a solid rear, and there is no provision for the circlips on the stubshafts to lock into the unit, therefore you'll battle leaking axle seals, which isn't fun.
*note: The 89-91 Non-Turbo LSD will also fit, but shy away from these are they are Viscous LSD units and aren't worth the trouble.
*note: Replace the (2) seals on the Diff before reinstallation (MA02-27-238A $5.95)
*note: RX7 Circlips PN is (M005-27-421 $1.95)
Parts:
86-88 RX7 NON-TURBO differential assembly
94-95 Miata stub shafts or RX7 stub shafts and 94-95 Miata half-shafts
or 96-05 Miata axles (no stubs needed)
RX7 Circlips (fit onto the end of the stubs/axles, miata clips will not fit)
94-05 Miata driveshaft
Miata Ring and Pinion
Miata Pinion housing (pumpkin) (find at RX7 performance shops)
Miata Diff. Bushings
Proceedure:
Open the RX7 assembly. Decide what ring and pinon to use. Bolt the correct ring gear to the RX7 LSD. Swap the pinon gear and lsd guts to the miata pinon housing. Set the backlash (and pinon depth if swapping pinon gear), and assemble the miata pinon housing to the RX7 housing. Drill out the RX7 diff bushings and push in miata specfic bushings. Install as normal.
*note: The 84-85 LSD will fit, however, the housing is not compatible….unless you want to convert to a solid rear axle
*note: If converting to a RX7 Clutch LSD, simply avoid units from 84-85 models. While the LSD is technically the same, they come out of a solid rear, and there is no provision for the circlips on the stubshafts to lock into the unit, therefore you'll battle leaking axle seals, which isn't fun.
*note: The 89-91 Non-Turbo LSD will also fit, but shy away from these are they are Viscous LSD units and aren't worth the trouble.
*note: Replace the (2) seals on the Diff before reinstallation (MA02-27-238A $5.95)
*note: RX7 Circlips PN is (M005-27-421 $1.95)
#66
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Installed the Boss Frog Arms today, not bad, ~30min each side. I have to redo the driver side tomorrow because I forgot to check the door alignment before bolting it back up and the door is just slightly off now.
![](http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/4918/dsc00238jl.jpg)
![](http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/3474/dsc00239e.jpg)
![](http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/818/dsc00241o.jpg)
All the junk that came out from the bottom part of the fender!
![](http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/4918/dsc00238jl.jpg)
![](http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/3474/dsc00239e.jpg)
![](http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/818/dsc00241o.jpg)
All the junk that came out from the bottom part of the fender!
![](http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/2010/dsc00240y.jpg)
#67
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It's looking like I'm going to be down here in TX for a while. So it is time to put the Miata under the knife. I'm going to be changing a lot. With the new DD in place I'm going to transform the Miata into more of a weekend/stripped/project/fun car. An engine rebuild, wire tuck, water injection, and weight reduction are going to be the big parts of this build. The details and funds are still getting worked out. This will probably be a 6-12 month project. I'm going to be taking my time and getting ---- (
) with the details. I have a few parts already, pictures will be posted soon.
The major parts for a DIY water injection set up.
Mounts for moving my gauges from the A-Pillar to elsewhere.
Water temp and oil pressure gauges.
949 Subframe Braces
M-Tuned Rods
Beatrush Undertray
Obviously a lot more to buy. Expect lots of logs and pictures from this build. There are also a few undisclosed parts that involve thinking outside the logic box but I'm not going to say yet cause it's hard to explain and typing on the PS3 is hard (jk
)
EDIT: I have a 99' engine sourced out so that will be replacing the 97'.
![Giggle](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/gay.gif)
The major parts for a DIY water injection set up.
Mounts for moving my gauges from the A-Pillar to elsewhere.
Water temp and oil pressure gauges.
949 Subframe Braces
M-Tuned Rods
Beatrush Undertray
Obviously a lot more to buy. Expect lots of logs and pictures from this build. There are also a few undisclosed parts that involve thinking outside the logic box but I'm not going to say yet cause it's hard to explain and typing on the PS3 is hard (jk
![Giggle](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/gay.gif)
EDIT: I have a 99' engine sourced out so that will be replacing the 97'.
Last edited by FRT_Fun; 05-16-2010 at 12:49 PM.
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