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My goal for this build is to initially make 280-290whp and have the ability to one day make 350-375whp with proper trans/diff. I’m open to any kind of advice and criticism of my build ideas and what may need to be changed. I already have a lot of this stuff, some is shipping as I write this and other stuff (engine internals) I haven’t bought yet
Engine : 1.8L BP Head - VVT
750mL Amazon vented catch can/-10 hoses
FIC1000cc EV-14 injectors
M-Tuned fuel rail
K-tuned AFPR w/ gauge
GM flex fuel sensor
Walbro 255HP
D585 LS coils
Block - BP-Z3
NA 9:1 OEM pistons
Manley Rods
ACL main and rod bearings
Gates water pump/Timing Belt
ATI Damper
Supermiata Hybrid motor mounts
Turbo Kit
eBay tacotaco 1.8 mani
Pulsar GTX3067 Gen 2
Custom IC piping
eBay intercooler
TiAL Q 50mm BOV
TiAL Sport 38mm wastegate
Custom V-Band 3” DP
Custom 3” exhaust with magnaflow (ISR replica)
SPEEDYEFI fishdog
Drivetrain
Flyin’Miata Level 2 Clutch
FX Chromoly 12lb flywheel
6 speed
4.1 Torsen (3.63 coming soon)
Suspension
Fortune Auto 500 coilovers
Poly control arm bushings
Flyin’ Miata sway bars
Wheel/Tire
15x9 Advanti Storm S1
245/40/15 Hankook RS4
Brakes
Custom mustang brake setup with 11” ND rotors
My plan is to get the turbo setup on the car and make 270hp/240tq while I build the VVT engine over the next 6 months. I should be able to get this thing turbo’d by Christmas and get it to the dyno a little after Christmas
Couple things:
- GT2560 may not get you to that 280-290whp without e85, almost certainly not to anything much above 300 with the bp05 (efr 6258 would be my suggestion, can be had for around 1300 on TCS)
- the 5 speed is on borrowed time at that point too depending on how hard you drive it (or how lucky you are, really) and if you are set on that 300+ in the future, start looking for 6 speeds or planning all the stuff for a different trans (bmw one is popular)
Couple things:
- GT2560 may not get you to that 280-290whp without e85, almost certainly not to anything much above 300 with the bp05 (efr 6258 would be my suggestion, can be had for around 1300 on TCS)
- the 5 speed is on borrowed time at that point too depending on how hard you drive it (or how lucky you are, really) and if you are set on that 300+ in the future, start looking for 6 speeds or planning all the stuff for a different trans (bmw one is popular)
Thanks for the input! I was dead set on the EFR but after seeing some dynos and spool times I figured i might go with a GT2560. I’ve seen a few people making about 300whp on that turbo on pump gas, but you’re right for $400 extra I can have a turbo that I’ll likely never change. And with the EFR I wouldn’t need a BOV, or Boost control solenoid which would make it basically the same price. I think that’s the way I’ll go!
The reason for even keeping the power at 280ish is exactly that, I don’t really want to drop a 6 speed in it (at least yet) I’d be more interested in do a trans swap with another 5 speed that would hold 350whp reliably. Something that would work well with the 4.1 rear end.
Thanks for the input! I was dead set on the EFR but after seeing some dynos and spool times I figured i might go with a GT2560. I’ve seen a few people making about 300whp on that turbo on pump gas, but you’re right for $400 extra I can have a turbo that I’ll likely never change. But with the EFR I wouldn’t need a BOV which would make it more like $200 more. I think that’s the way I’ll go!
The reason for even keeping the power at 280ish is exactly that, I don’t really want to drop a 6 speed in it (at least yet) I’d be more interested in do a trans swap with another 5 speed that would hold 350whp reliably. Something that would work well with the 4.1 rear end.
Picked up a turbo 1.6 last night with no title for $150. It doesn’t run but it’s got a brand new top, intercooler piping I’ll use and a downpipe I can probably use.
That 1.6 shitbox is a bargain, no matter how shitty it is
You can make this thing run with very little $$$
Any idea on engine management in that thing?
The 1.6 has no title. I’m taking a few things off it, parting out the rest and funds will go toward this build. There was no ECU in it at all. Might have had something, but the FMU suggests maybe stock. It’s got stock injectors as well
The part out is going well on the 1.6. Motor looked pretty healthy too. From that car I got
-3” V-Band downpipe
-38mm TiAL Sport wastegate
-10 AN oil drain line
-eBay churbo (not sure exact size, looks comparable to GT2860)
-real oil pressure sender with gauge
-AutoMeter Ultra-lite boost gauge
I’m inclined to use this turbo on my car now, as I build the VVT engine. That way I can enjoy boost while the full build is underway... 🙂
Real oil pressure gauge installed. Will install the sender on my next oil change
Sandwich plate I received was not a mishimoto, it was some cheap knock off. Not happy about it but don’t need it immediately so I’ll be returning/exchanging it.
So I broke the speedometer cable when I changed the oil gauge 😑 so I guess I’ll be doing an NB cluster swap sooner than I thought.
Also got my intercooler yesterday, so I began working on mocking it up and finding space for it. With the AC lines and various parts, it’s been a challenge but I think I figured it out.
Wondering if that’s sitting too low or if it should be fine? The car is currently on 195/50r15 and will be on 225/45r15 so that should bring it up a tiny bit. Depending on tire clearance I may raise it another half inch as well. This shows how I had to move the power steering lines so that the IC would fit.
Got all the parts now for the intial boosting except the ECU (that should be here in a week)
This week I got
-mishimoto oil filter sandwich plate
-10AN drain hose
-Koyo hyper-v
-Fab9 stage 1 intercooler
-ATP turbo studs
-stage 8 locking fasteners from SUMMIT
-glowshift boost gauge
-defective AEM X-Series wideband
-NB2 gauge cluster
-new o-rings for my injectors
I also painted the intercooler piping black, and painted my catch can black. Had to grind a small amount from the turbine housing to fit the
stage 8 nuts.
The AEM X-Series I got had a defective gauge. After changing the 12v source and the ground source 3 times, I went to a friends house and he plugged his into my harness and it worked just fine. Mine was stuck in settings mode. AEM quickly shipped out a new one for me without having to return the old gauge on one condition....
“Field Destroy Process”
Send a pic showing the SN that I destroyed the defective gauge... that was awkward
Glowshift boost for now Vibrant/Fab9 intercooler 3 gauge a-pillar replacement Radiator didn’t come in time for Christmas 😭 Test fitting the piping Slim fans/Koyo will help with this fitment It’s all coming together
I went with the ‘thru the fender’ routing to retain AC/PS and to be able to use 2.5” piping on the hot side. This metal was surprisingly easy to cut through, however I would NOT recommend using a 3” drill bit or any large round drill bit for that matter. It kept stopping every time it touched the car and skipping away from where I wanted it
I sprayed the body with rustoleum rust-prevention spray paint and wrapped it with an old soft top seal that I flattened out.
ignore the chipped paint from my fender rolling. The paint on this car is horrible, from Maaco, and is going for paint sometime in the future
I modified the downpipe for clearance, bung welded on and chopped off the 2-bolt flange in favor of V-bands. Got the turbo clocked in it’s final configuration which should make more room for the intake to go up underneath the charge pipe and back towards the master cylinders. It’s all coming together, the only things I really have left to do is drill the pan and install the ECU. Waiting for SpeedyEFI to come back in stock so I can order one.
I wish I could change the title of this thread 😭 this took such a different turn than I originally intended. I would say in around 9 months the car will have a fully built 1.9L VVT engine, but I had no intention of boosting this stock engine. After obtaining a good portion of turbo parts for a really good deal, and finding out that my current engine was healthy, I decided to boost the stock engine.