I love the way those gears look and I think you said they are from a RX-7 rear if so what year I got a 88-91 turboII rear in my car but according to the numbers I have 3.90 ratio and considering we will have about the same hp I hope at least on my side I would love to have a set of 3.6's/ and they look awesome after the shotpeen polish job.

 

The 3.6 gears actually only come from Australian miatas, mazda 626es, and mazda motorsports. Cheapest way to get them is used from a 626. Should cost $100-150.

If you have a TII rear, I -think- that you have an 8" ring?????? Unfortunately, the Miata ring is 7".

 

I'm in the middle of the WI install and wow this is one of my favorite car projects so far. The hydramist is basically a WI kit and I haven't found any missing pieces so far.

The real piece de resistance of the kit is the little junction box. It is what switches to a conservative timing map if you run out of water, activates WI when you go into boost, switches power off on your boost control solenoid when you run out of water. My overpriced MBC that I posted earlier in my thread has a solenoid built into it so it will be perfect. When I run out of water, my rig will drop to a more conservative boost setting and also more conservative timing. With those automatic cutovers I will be comfortable running 6million pounds of boost with WI.



This is how I'm mounting up my tank and pump. This is the aluminum plate that sits in front of the drivers rear shock in the trunk. It also blocks off the fuel tank pipe. This was the best mounting spot I could figure out. No room elsewhere I am going to keep my spare tire because I don't want to fill my 6UL with fixaflatfoam. Also, that little cubby under the antenna is full with an audio amplifier.



I've kind of dreaded the WI install. I actually have owned the kit for about 3 years now. It sounds stupid but all the wires intimidated me. I suppose I was a little burned by my turbo kit install but as I wrote above, this kit is very complete. For the record, FM does not actually put together the kit; they resell it. Element Tuning puts together the kit and did the R&D to make it work with the Hydra. My dyno tune session is next Wednesday afternoon with them- I can't wait!

 

Your car just gets better and better I thought the big turbo and almost stock looking car was good enough but with all this extra stuff this thing is gonna be a rocket.

 

Here it is all mounted up.



I am absolutely thrilled and somewhat incredulous that I chose the mounting location correctly. The trunk lid arm does not hit the cap! There is about 1/4" of clearance. The aluminum or steel or whatever the **** material it is plate is indeed sturdy enough too.

BTW yes I know there is no mounting bolt in the top left corner of the tank. I would have needed a 6 inch long bolt for that hole. The three bolts in there are sturdy enough.

 

pretty small tank, you are going to need to watch it close.

 

Who are you having tune your car and how much are they charging an hour?

 

That black thing sticking out of the left side of the tank is a water level sensor. When I run out of juice, the timing map and fuel map will switch to a more conservative map, and my EBC will shut off and revert to wastegate boost. I ******* love closed loop failsafes.

Phil @ Element Tuning. He charges like $150/hr. Expensive but I'm not sure I trust many others to do it. Nice guy and a genuine enthusiast- I think he placed 15th or so in the recent GRM UTCC etc. Doesn't really bear relevance to his tuning ability but here is a video of him on youtube in some nasty crash at summit. Walked away from it:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LnmD7kxHUw

 

$150/hr is not to bad, esp for the DC area. Is it on a steady state dyno?

I will hopefully be getting Jerry at DIY to tune my baby right before I come up for the dyno day and he charges $125/hr.

 

Ok the flow gauge is all mounted up:

 

woops

 

That's not installed, that's thrown in.

Edit: You beat me to it, thankfully.

 

It doesn't look that secure but I plan on caulking the hole around it for that flush look.

 

spend a few minutes on it or it will remind me of this guys frame rails when he tried to fit a turbo once.

 

mounted up

Ha ha just kidding.


Here it is, mounted up.



I ripped out the vent cup and cut up the cup plastic as well as the vent so the wire drops down below. Lined the cup and gauge with velcro and it fit in nice and snug.

Have to wire up the HSV and boost controller tomorrow.

That gauge is all sorts of badass. It monitors for high flow (if a nozzle or nozzle feeding hose is leaking), low flow (**** in your lines), if you're low on water, and turns everything on and off including the boost controller solenoid. I do not have big track plans for my car right now but if I did, I wouldn't do WI without this kind of system unless I was being super ultra conservative and just wanted to get lower AITs.

 

Working away:

Got my WI jet adapters all mounted up:



Here's a close up. These are kinda neat. You can change your jets without having to worry about ******* up your threads etc. They are M8 to 1/8NPT.

 

Put on the new fuel rail and ID1000s. FM sent me the wrong type of adapter for rail-fuel line connection. I took the plastic sheath thingy out of the factory one and stuffed it in there and it seemed to work. Turned key to on position and nothing leaked so I -think- it is ok. Tomorrow I will load up the ID1000 map and start it and check for leaks while running.

 

Today I repainted the intake manifold with barbq paint, and baked it in the oven for a little while. I didn't go through the whole cure process because that ******* process takes 3 hours of bake, cool, change temperature, bake cool uggh. I did not use the gutted manifold because it is for a different year than the lower half that I have. I guess I will sell it.

Here it is all mounted up with some nozzles in it. Unfortunately the ******* nozzles I was sent are not all the same. I have one 4mm inlet nozzle and 3 6mm inlet nozzles. Phil @ Element had better have some correct nozzles in stock or I will not be able to tune my WI on wednesday.



I think I have the darkest engine bay in existence. Dark like the jungles in Africa.

 

I also ran vacuum lines for my dual stage MBC which I am mounting up in my little armrest glovebox. I have already written about the MBC but I have more to say about it. "low boost" is actually mechanical and "high boost" is EBC. That is interesting because they will have different power curves. I hope to post some dyno charts illustrating such.

The vacuum lines were a ******* pain to run. I hate shoving **** through the firewall. I swear I am going to break out my sawzall or get a softball sized hole saw drill bit and cut that ****** to bits. It took me like an hour to run two vacuum lines.

 

again?