Thought I'd share this with you guys. Customer wanted to swap an f20c in his miata, so I took on the project. Customer dropped off the car Friday, I've spent yesterday and today to get to where I am now, I should have it wrapped up tomorrow, Tuesday at the latest.

follow me on Instagram guys, I post all sorts of cool fab stuff there - zanderguerra

Here is the subframe addition, 1.25" square and 1.5" round, all tig welded.




I welded it onto the bottom of the subframe



And cut what I didn't want anymore away with a sawsall



I will be boxing In all of the open areas around the stock subframe, and adding a few reinforcements before this is done.



Engine shimmed and tweaked into position. Yes you loose ground clearance with this swap, the engine is too tall for the miata without being positioned farther back. I built it to sit a slight bit lower than the sump, to protect it.



Close up of the subframe side of the mounts




Don't mind the bolts not being in all the way, or there being a piece of stainless stock through the mount hole, it's all just mocked up in these photos.

Driver side



Passenger side



I have the steering rack mounts made and sitting in this picture, but it's not aligned or welded yet, I was tired and didn't feel like working anymore



so here's where I sit at the end of day two



All I have left is the ppf adapter, a few hours of fab and welding to finish up the subframe, weld the mounts for rack, and lengthen the steering shaft. I'll post more tomorrow.

 

Awesome!!!!

 

Well ****. That escalated quickly.

 

loving this already!

 

hell yeah, nice job. Damn you're quick.

 

If the exhaust and intake weren't opposite of what a BP Miata engine are, my car would have a k20/k24 in it.

 

Why is that stopping you?

 

I should add the fact that all the factory NB gauges need to also work perfectly...that's another thing stopping me.

 

Here's a little update, better pics of the mounts, and the steering rack is mounted








Next is the ppf adapter!

 

Shouldn't be too hard. Tach, oil, fuel, water temp shouldn't be to bad. Not sure about the speedo.

Curious how far from stock location the steering rack is?

 

About 4 inches, the ball joints are still the same distance away, just behind instead of in front of.

 

Get some videos of it when completed! I'd like to see what you think of the steering with the altered rack. Track or street car?

 

Copy in any discussion in the K24 thread.

It's not only the distance, it's also that the rack is on the other side (rack in front of the knuckle) that make a change in behaviour.

 

I'm aware of this, it means it'll get slightly more toe out the more you turn the wheel. It's for a street car, and it's the way others have done it so I did it as well. I'm also quite curious to know if feel will be altered or if it'll be negligible.


Anyways, here's the ppf adapter, probably overbuilt, but I like strength.




Almost done! Just superficial stuff now; boxing in the subframe and reinforcing it, and the steering shaft.

 

That adapter is pretty nice work, I always feel that I am not good at big parts like that.

Dann

 

And that's it, everything fits and mounts well, so I pulled the engine back out for the final time, so I could box in the subframe.





Here's the ppf adapter on the trans




That's it guys! Now I'm making fixtures of the mounts, and a fixture of the whole subframe with new steering rack mounts. That way I can make tubular subframes in the future.

 

Thread win.

You make this look soo easy hahahah

Props

 

What do you do about:
1. Lengthening the steering shaft?
2. Driveshaft pinon angle adjustment?

 

driveshaft angle would be the same way you do it on a stock miata. the ppf bolts are oblong to adjust it after you get the bolts in and loose.

 

Seriously. After reading this thread, I think I'm gonna drop an F20C in next weekend!