muchas graz

ah, i get it. i'd like to see your setup for the pickup too. i got fuel starvation once when i wasn't expecting it so i'd like to compare. maybe my pickup can be improved.

when i mig plated stuff i usually just hold my breath but i wanted to try out the tig, so i'll take your advice and sand that stuff off. definitely helps, thanks for the detailed writeup. your fuel and turbo lines are dope!

 

Properly welded, there is no chance of a leak. Bulk head fittings are designed to allow a line to terminate on one side of a bulkhead/firewall then start again on the other side. Not really designed for leak proof design, even though there are some bulkhead fittings with seals.

 

Here are a few pictures of the fuel rail, regulator, and a couple of shots of the in tank plumbing as promised.

Comparison shot of the new fuel rail compared to the stocker


Comparison of the diameter of the stock fuel pick up compared to the new pickup


Fuel rail fuel regulator on the engine.

-6 return line and -8 pickup

I cut the stock lines out of the fuel tank cover and welded up the holes then installed the -6 and -8 fittings and tubes

 

omg it just keeps getting better.

 

Can someone upload the pics here? Can't see photobucket. :(

 

So I got a little more work done over the last few days. First off, let me say that I may have thought twice about going with AN lines had I realized what I was getting myself into. Hopefully, the end result will be worth all the effort.




Pics of the latest batch of fittings, the second shot includes -8 and -6 fuel line as well as -4 line for vacuum lines, turbo oil supply, small water lines ect.



I know there are a lot of different schools of thought on cutting braided line. My solution is an abrasive blade on a miter saw. I set up a fence that moves the lines out further, to ensure clean cuts.



A picture showing the quality of the cut from my set up



I had to get a little creative getting the supply line through the bulkhead. The fuel pump was mounted a little to low to go straight to a bulkhead
fitting, and I was a bit to tight on space as well. But I think I came up with a pretty decent solution, at least I am happy with it.




Finally a couple of pictures of the engine, with the supply line, the line from the manifold to the regulator, a small water line from the intake manifold to the throttle body. Some of you may also notice that I tapped the the manifold for a vacuum source behind the throttle body for the blow off valve,you can see the fitting on top of the manifold next to the MAP sensor. I also changed from a 90 degree fitting for the supply line to the fuel rail to a 180 degree. I didn't like the routing I was going to have to use for the 90.

I forgot to take a picture of the oil supply line for the turbo, but I guess if you have seen one supply line you have seen them all.

 

I am trying to come up with an idea for a catch tank for oil and coolant overflow, any ideas would be welcome.

 

Beautiful build.

May I ask where you are getting the black braided lines?

 

^^^Thank You.

I am getting the black braided line from a local speed shop. The black line is available through both summit racing and jegs. I just wanted something other than braided steel, though I did use braided steel for both supply and return lines in the fuel system. I felt the braided steel offered more protection while the lines were under the car.

I also have quite a bit of the braided steel left over so I may use it for the oil cooler and oil relocate that I am planning. I haven't thought that far ahead. I do know that I will be using the black for my breather lines though.

 

More goodies,

Injector Dynamics 1000 cc injectors


Omni 4 Bar MAP sensor


A comparison shot. Stock 1.6 miata, Injector Dynamics, Stock f20c

 

thanks for the detailed fuel pickup pics as well as the stainless fuel line pics. i just suddenly got alot more interested in e85 when i discovered the chevron station near where i store my trailer has it now (montague ave, san jose CA). as i understand it, ethanol is hygroscopic, and hence is hard on fuel lines. is this why you used stainless? is it required?


heres kind of a neat turbo catch can using a scavenge pump so the turbo can be mounted low, but i would guess one of these would be easier http://www.optionimports.com/items.asp?Cc=oil_catch_can



offtopic, but i thought this was trick, tilton hydraulic clutch without the lever:



ref: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1272563

 

I went with the stainless to offer a little more protection to the lines while they are under the car. I could have gone to hard line then back to braided line but the cost savings would have been minimal and more of a pain in the *** to run. As far as being harder on the rubber, I don't have comment on that. I will have to do a little research, and see what is being written. I like the forkless throwout setup.

 

Here is another little update. I am getting close to start up, but noted a couple of items that needed taking care of. I noticed that several of the vband clamps did not seat completely after pulling everything apart and checking level I found several flanges were slightly warped. They are now getting resurfaced flat.

The vband housing at the header to turbine housing is not fitting properly either. The header vband flange has a small ring on it that fits inside a recess in the turbine flange. The problem is the recess is just about 1 mm to small in circumference, which of course means that the joint is going to leak. I will take a dremel tool with a drum sander on it, and open up the recess just enough for proper fit.

The ring

The recess

The poor fit and potential leak.

I installed oil pressure, water temp, and boost gauges


I also plumbed the blow off valve and waste gate.



Finally, here is a pic of the fitting coming off the block for the turbo oil supply, and the supply to the oil pressure gauge

 

This is all coming together really nice! I wanna put an S2k dash in my car :(

 

I bet you could get it to work. You have electronic signal for the spedo, fuel level was plug and play in my conversion. The low fuel warning light, would require you to isolate the right pin from the miata ecu, same with the tach, and water temp. But I bet a motivated guy could get it to work pretty easily.

 

Hhhhmmmmmmmmm

 

this doesn't sound right - they're machined surfaces. i'd get the lip side good and cold and see if it slips on before removing metal.

 

My friend had the same thing happen with some older OBX flanged V-bands. He dremeled off a hair and they worked fine after that.

When I did the OBX flanged Vband on mine, I made sure to have it all clamped together through All the welding. It fits perfectly... of course they might have enlarged the tolerances since my friend used them last.

 

Oh boy I cannot wait for videos of this thing.

High revving/flowing engine + very well sorted big turbo setup + light car =

 

My Tial didnt have this issue.... strange.

edit... do you have a low pressure 'pusher' pump, or just the external with the new feed in the tank?