Awesome build Chris! Keep up the good work,almost there!

It's been 538 days since this thread has been started! (1.474 years!)

Start Sooooon

Theoretically assuming this week goes as planned (which it never does) I should be firing her up next weekend. Shifter shows up tomorrow, harness Tuesday, wed Thu and Fri I will be trying to finish everything else up. Get fluids filled and what not and aim to startup next weekend.

Fingers crossed!!!

So I spoke too soon. I have come to the realization that I will need to take a few things apart to do my brake lines which will postpone startup.

With that said, I am going to be assembling all of the frontend suspension stuff now, which brings me to my choice of brakes. From everything I have read, it appears that for track cars, the 11.75" front with the sport rears is the "way to go". However given mine wont be a track car but may at some point go on the track, would there be much benefit for me to go from the 11" wildwood kit to the 11.75"? For me there is a significant price difference between the two so that is where my hesitation comes from.

Also, is there any particular reason that the 949 11.75" kit is $150 more expensive than the TSE kit?

I just did the sport fronts, NA8 rear on te sport rotor. Carbotech 8's and 10's. My car stops unbelievably well. Makes your face feel funny.

Will the brakes actually prevent you from starting up, or are there other unforeseen issues?? Figured a jack stand start up should be ok, no??
Or are you wanting to tackle the brakes before wiring/ecu??

As of right now I do not have any hardlines going from the master cylinder to and of the brakes, so I have to make the lines which will require me to remove some of the coolant hoses and a few other little parts. And rather than filling the engine with fluid, starting it, and then having to drain the fluid it sort of just makes sense to do the brake lines first while its easy. Realistically by the end of the weekend I should have all of the wiring done and we are going to do a continuity check on the harness to insure everything is good to go.

Trust me I am getting super anxious about getting this done and I want to start it up more than anyone else, but sometimes it just makes a bit of sense to wait a few more days until everything is finished. So right now that basically just means me putting the front suspension stuff together, the brakes on and running the brake lines before I startup. I am hoping to order my brakes and a few other tidbits today or tomorrow pending availability and which kit I decide to go with, whether it be a standard 11" wildwood kit or the 11.75" kit from either 949 or TSE.

This!!!

Understood. I usually do a quick start without coolant for first startups to make sure wiring and such is good. The car won't heat up enough for the first few minutes me thinks, but I most definitely see your point. What's another day or 3 right??

Also, if it's predominately a street whip, 11" should suffice. But any sort of track day, you are going to be kicking yourself in the ass to not upgrade to the 11.75 (or bigger). At your power levels, I would.

The more I stare at this set-up and the front of the car, over-heating just screams at me, even on the street. Does your re-route thermo use a lower temp thermo than factory? Having it off the head, and separated by several inches of rubber, could lead to a pretty substantial delta in coolant temps between the "on the head" location and the "in-line" location of the thermo.

I was searching through CX-Racing cores similar to yours, I like the over the top set-up, but was hoping to find one about half the width, mount it extreme offset to one side, to allow my radiator to see more direct exposure. Is your core 3" thick?

Can't wait to see this beast run!

Thermostats have a bypass hole for that reason. The m-tuned reroute uses a housing like that and it has worked for hundreds of people. Including so-cal track cars.

Thanks for the input, I am optimistic that cooling/ overheating is not an issue I have to deal with, however if it does for some reason then I will address it at that time. And as Aidan said, this particular re-route has been used time and time again by hundreds of folks. I do also realize that my particular setup is a bit different than most in the sense that I have this giant IC core blocking the radiator and my custom fan/ shroud setup. So hopefully it all works out. In regards to the core, it is a 4" thick core.

He also doesn't have an A/C condenser.

Well timing seemed to be in my favor this week, I hop in the market for brakes and thanks to Neogenisis I was able to snag a handfull of parts for a great price.

Picked up the TSE 11.75" fronts with Dynalite calipers and a full rear sport conversion with rotors and calipers, as well as the frame rails and butterfly brace!

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b69c8f4a62.jpg

Nice! You won't regret it :)

Put the brakes together a little bit on the bench, got my rollbar sold and the new Blackbird Fabworx rollbar today. Also got my Racepak IQ3s in the mail yesterday, annnnd heres pics!

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ac95a0458b.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...75002e7f1d.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9e46f0e4a2.jpg

Ooooh haltech version. Thats got the different colored warning lights. Looks dope.

Were kinda like twinsies now, only with different parents!


Now I just need to figure out how I am going to mount it.

My dash on the FM gauge blank for reference. Pretty cheap but they also seem to have ridiculous shipping costs. Very clean and the aluminum makes it easy to drill/cut it to your needs. I still need to paint/wrap mine.

Attachment 178915