Ok, not so much as an update as a thought as to a possible solution...

According to the MSextra external wiring pages:
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/hardware.html#wiring
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/hardw...ml#wiring-ms3x
Where does the Camshaft Position Sensor pick up its ground from? Is it grounded to the engine or does it send its ground back to the ECU? Is it the "sensor ground" pin? I think maybe I messed up my grounds and that is my problem.

From what I can tell X2,3,8,12,17 and MS7-19 should be grounded to ECU ground. If the "sensor ground" on the main harness is the common ground for all sensors, which pin should this be connected to on the DB37? Do I need to run a ground from the MS DB37 to the 3x DB37 or is it done internally? (I would imagine the ground would be shared internally but I have to ask)

Thanks all, if I don't figure this out in the next several days it will likely wait until spring as I will be putting my car down for the winter soon and I will have reached my frustration limit.

 

sensor grounded in the engine harness, most likely back to the TB ground point. Powered through the white/red wire off the main relay, and he signal goes back to ECU.


do you have js9 jumped to s12?

 

I am pulling my jumper harness apart tonight and checking my wiring. I will also check js9 to s12.

 

im assuming you are just bench testing at the moment, so the ms3x card will need the pull up. js9 provides the 12v pullup for the daughtercard and thus the ms3x card....so if it's missing, that could be the issue here.

 

Is the js9 to s12c the wire you put under the main cpu? If so, I believe I put that in.

I am actually testing this in the car with real cam etc. I have verified spark and injector outputs on 3x card using jimstim and jimstimx. (using cas4/1 trigger wheel on stim and appropriate settings in software)

 

After a year and some change...

UPDATE: I don't know why I did this, but for some reason I was combining sensor grounds and ECU grounds. I double checked my sensor grounds and redid the wiring from the stock harness (pin 4O if I recall). That gave me a cleaner crank signal but I was still not seeing my cam. I had been using y8s setup and was using JS10 (M25) as my cam input, but on a whim I decided to use the MS3x card (pin X32 I believe) and see how things went if I swapped over. For some reason it worked perfectly. The question is though, why didn't it work when wired to M25 and as JS10?

I now have a megasquirt that "sees" rpms, but I may not be getting anything in the composite logger. Does this make sense? The engine started to stumble awake and I didn't have timing, sensor calibrations, or map sensor installed so I shut it down and went to grab a sixpack of hard cider to celebrate.

Then I got asked to come into work today early so I had to put it all together (stock computer) and get to bed. We are expecting snow tonight and my garage isn't heated so I think the car is going to be parked for the next couple weeks. I may drag it into a local shop to get the wideband bung installed later this week though.

Progress though! (Thanks y8s for all the help)

 

Going to look at what looks to be a complete BEGI S3 kit used... Will update on Saturday. Things might be getting real...

 

Ok, so last weekend I picked up the remnants of what looks to be a BEGI-S kit. I have verified that these very parts belonged to member "Romanservices" last year before he sold his car. I would say that the kit is about 80%-90% complete. I am planning on buying stainless steel coolant and oil return lines so that is not an issue for me, and for the most part that is the only significant part I am missing.

Turbos included in price:
GT2554 equivalent - lots of side to side shaft play on inlet side. I don't think I can run this turbo safely.
2x turbos from an RB26DETT (nissan skyline 2.6 twin turbo). At least one of the turbos seems to be in good enough shape to run, but I don't know how well it will do in my application.
Godspeed TD05 18g

The Godspeed is what Romanservices was running, but to me it looks to be a bit big for my stock engine and I doubt it is the best fit for me. I THINK I would rather have something that spools as fast as a GT2560, but if I cannot find a better choice for cheap before I put it all together, I will just go with the Godspeed. Thoughts?

Along with the kit, I also got a 2.5" stainless midpipe with cat and resonator as well as a racing beat dual exhaust. I personally prefer single exhuast, but it's not high on my list and it will be a large improvement from what I already have.

I also spent a good bit of time on the phone with Emilio from 949racing the other day. Since I already have the "Hard-S" Billsteins, I will be buying Tein springs and the Supermiata sway bar kit as a first step towards making it handle a bit more respectably. I also talked with him about another product, but it's not been announced yet and so until it is released and ordered I will hold off on talking about it.

Sticking with stock wheels and BFG Comp-2s for the first couple months while I shake things out. I will be upgrading to 15x9 6ULs with Hankook RS3s at some point later in the year.

Total $$ actually spent on the turbo kit thus far including engine management?
Megasquirt 3x with Mapdaddy and electronic boost control included - approximately $700
Wiring harness built - Approximately $50 (Far more in tools if you include them)
460cc injectors, used - $80
BEGI-S3 remnant kit - $450
Full 2.5" stainless exhuast - included in price of turbo kit.

 

Update from 1/28/13

I spent about ten hours on Tuesday working on my project. I chose to route the vacuum line and the wideband wires through the existing rubber grommet that the stock harness runs through. I really felt bad cutting into that boot, but I feel it went pretty good. Without making my own hole, I don't think I could have done it better. I tucked the vacuum line under the hard lines and used zip ties to keep it all nice and neat.

I then started trying to solder in the flyback diode on the VVT and the Idle valve, but I ended up dropping the first diode into the engine bay never to be seen again, and so I decided to cut the stock harness and wire it in. Will this effect my stock computer when it is running the show?

Since I was one diode down at this point, I decided to only do the VVT flyback for now and I will return to do the idle later.

I then installed the AEM UEGO wideband. I had some trouble getting the front oxygen sensor out but once I was able to borrow an offset wideband socket I was able to remove the stock sensor pretty easily. I then installed the AEM wideband sensor and it was going great. I took a trip out to radio shack to buy some wire and a relay to power the wideband and other future gauges and accessories. Once I got back I realized I forgot to buy an inline fuse so I skipped installing that and temporarily tapped into the cigarette lighter wires (since I plan on using those to power the relay anyhow) to power the positive side for the wideband. Ground is shared with the Megasquirt.

However, once I connected the megasquirt and turned the car on, the wideband gauge didn't light up. I will post my logs from the megasquirt in a future post, but I can't be sure wither or not it is a gauge problem or if the whole thing is dead...

Once everything was wired in and theoretically powered up - I tried to start the car...

No dice.

I will post logs and my MSQ when I get home and hopefully you all can tell me what my problem is.

 

Update: 4/5/13

Aux relay was installed and powered directly off of the battery. Switching signal is via the cigarette lighter. CB radio (for club cruises) and wideband are now functioning perfectly. All that I have now is a dead gauge for oil temperature (no sending unit installed yet) and a check engine light due to my stock computer running on one narrowband O2 sensor. I am noticing my fuel economy dropping by about 2-4mpg average without the second 02 sensor.

I decided to abort the clusterfuck of a MS3 patch harness I had built and make a new one that took into account things I learned on the first build. I am hoping that will be the silver bullet that gets me going.

I picked up a set of 23" wires from DIYautotune that have the signals printed on them to make wiring easier. I also went to all crimp connectors for the MS3 cables instead of the solder pots. I should be putting this together in the next week or two.

Purchased:
Tein S-tech springs
Fatcat bumpstops
Supermiata swaybar kit (with end links)
Supermiata clutch kit (ceramic sprung)
Supermiata lightweight pressure plate
New clutch slave cylinder
braided clutch line
Inconnel manifold to turbo stud kit
Knock sensor MS upgrade

I am hoping to get some suspension stuff done this weekend because it will be the least likely to frustrate me. Plus, autocross season starts up on the 27th for me and I want to have SOMETHING done for the first event.

I am contemplating going with a Precision 4828 turbo like Blaen99 is using. I am waiting on his dyno results but since I am running a stock block I am a little worried about losing response with no upside until I upgrade the rods and pistons. (pistons only because since I will be "in there" might as well do more than one thing at a time)

 

Update: 4/8/13

Tein S-tech Springs installed
SuperMiata sway bar kit installed (with end links)
Alignment performed to 949racing "street" specs

Impressions: I couldn't be more happy. I found that my passenger side front bilstein had a blown lower bushing and it being a Sunday I put it back in the way I found it. I figure I will buy a replacement and make that a project for a future weekend. I am running the sway on the outer hole right now. Roll is much improved and ride is only a tad bit stiffer. Not enough to make me care, and enough to make me smile. I know, this is totally useless to you all but I am a newb when it comes to suspension stuff. I will give another update after the next autocross.

Note: the purpose of the baller swaybars with the budget springs was to avoid buying (expensive) stuff twice. I plan on upgrading to Xidas in the next year or two and I want to take advantage of the new sways as best I can in a reasonable budget. Then when I upgrade I can sell the bilsteins and springs to partially recoup my costs.

Total time of installation was about 5 hours not including the alignment. Honestly we probably could have done it quicker but we were taking our time.

Next project will likely be either the timing belt or the clutch. My mechanic friend recommends changing the water pump and front seal while we are doing the timing belt, and the rear main seal when we do the clutch. You guys agree?

What pics would be useful in either case?

 

Supermiata Street Alignment? Man, those guys have REALLY updated that page since the last time I looked at it. Exactly what numbers did your alignment guys manage to pull out and what exactly is your current ride height as aligned?

For the love of sweet 8lb baby Jesus, yes, replace your water pump and front main while you are in there. Ditto for the rear main when the clutch/trans are out. Why? Because taking all that **** apart AGAIN later to fix it just sucks. Preventative maintenance FTW! Do the cam seals too if you can. The VVT will complicate this, so its going to be up to you, but definately do the mains. Emilio has a water pump available in the engine section on the 949Racing site that has a baller 3D cast impeller, it might be worth a look.

You have far more patience for electrical work that I do I really appreciate you documenting this, its been a great read thus far.

 

Ok, let me re-state my rhetorical question.

My mechanic friend advises me to replace the water pump and front main seal while we do the timing belt, which seems like a good idea even though I have never heard of either being particularly common issues. (any more than any other car)

While I am doing all this, are there any other things that I should replace? I was thinking of doing motor mount, trans mount, and u-joints. The little incidental stuff is getting expensive!

Also, it seems that my brakes have just under 50% life left. This is impressive to me considering I have 80k miles on the car, and I have driven 36k miles of them myself. No brake job since I bought the car.

 

My OEM 2000 vintage cam and crank seals were weeping oil at 95k. I'll put it this way: Is it worth $30 to you to not have to rip the entire timing set off again next year to replace weepy seals once you start boosting and hammering on things? Is it not worth the extra $57 water pump to not worry about a 12 year old bearing and seal not dumping your coolant?

Its the way of the world unfortunately.

Engine mounts are now 12 year old rubber. Add more torques via trubo and you will beat them up pretty quickly. I know at least one of mine is cracked, I just haven't had the time to replace them. Look into stock, 04-05 MazdaSPEED and MazdaCOMP mounts if you plan on replacing them. There is a difference, we have several threads about this here on MT. I have a set of MazdaCOMP mounts in the garage when I get around to actually making this happen. If you are super worried about NVH you can always mix and match one stock and one comp (I actually have 3 comp mounts in the garage as this was my original plan I'd sell you one cheap )

Trans does not really have a "mount" due to PPF. The other side of the system is the diff housing mounts. I chose to install the MazdaCOMP diff bushings when I had my housing out of the car for unrelated activities simply because dropping the housing sucks and I hate repeating labor. I picked the COMP diff mounts because they matched the COMP engine mounts, no other reason really. I was already in there and I knew this was something I wanted to do anyway. The upgrade really tied the room together, if you know what I mean.

U-Joints are non-serviceable IIRC, Mazda expects you to buy a new driveshaft with new u-joints. Put the car in gear with the parking brake on and go yank on the shaft (lol) and see if it wiggles (lol) otherwise just keep an eye on it.

Do you ABSOLUTELY NEED TO REPLACE any of these parts? Heck no! I chose to do mine in the process of fixing other things or because they are relatively cheap and easy if you already have the car apart for other things. Same thing with your brakes. Sounds like you can worry about them later, 50% is a lot of meat. Flush with good fluid and keep an eye on them. I <3 ATE SuperBlue but that's just me. Hope some of this helps?

 

Update: 4/29/13

After doing some reading and research it seems that my fuel pump wasnt functioning. I checked my old harness and I had let my stock ECU control the ground for the fuel pump. I am not sure why the ECU wasn't providing the ground, but for harness 2.0 I decided to let the megasquirt control the fuel pump. (I think my reasoning was to let the ECU theft deterant work)

Anyhow, harness 2.0 is nearly complete. I created a "shielded" crank position sensor wire by . I also am switching to crimp connectors rather than solder connectors.

Knock sensor upgrade bought, should be installed today or tomorrow. I will update when I have more.

 

UPDATE: 5/3/13 @ 2000 central time.
Finished jumper harness.
Installed GM Air sensor
Installed data logging switch

It's going to be a really clean install when done. Built a DB25 connector for all stuff that doesn't go through the stock harness.

I will be posting lots of pics but I popped on here to announce... I got it to fire!

It is really rich and won't idle, but I was able to keep it running at about 2k rpm for a couple minutes. AFR is way rich at 10.2 or so. I am hoping it is just a mistake in my fueling pages.

At the pub having a celebratory beer and burger- and letting the gas vapor dissipate from my garage.

 

Ok, WTF!?

I started working on it about 0900... No fire, nothing. I replaced the plugs thinking that perhaps they were completely toasted by the excess fuel.

After that didn't work, I took the MS3 out of the car and plugged it up to the stim. I immediately noticed that my vacuum source must have been wrong, because in the car I was reading manifold vacuum of 40kpa (minus 60!) even after letting it sit for several minutes. On the stim both barometric and MAP were identical.

I temporarily tee'd vacuum off of what I think was the cruise control. That worked, and I was idling steady about 1200rpm but then a plume of white shot out of my engine bay and I started smoking. I immediately cut ignition.

It seems to be power steering fluid? I am not dripping and I cannot get it to happen again What could cause my power steering to vent like that? I only lost about a shot glass full of fluid (what is on the concrete and on the undertray combined).

Is it safe to keep tuning? What could cause that? I see the ECU has something to do with a power steering pump. Could it be that the stock ECU was either over working the pump or not turning it on at all? I am confused.

I did try starting the car afterwards and ran it for several minutes without any problems, leaking, venting etc. My idle was a little rough so I am working on the idle flyback mod as we speak.

EDIT: Do I have engine speed sensing power steering? How does the system work? Anyone have any problems with it re: megasquirt?

 

random coincidence.

 

No fans.

Injector bank 1 controlled in extra outputs.

Injector bank 2 is condenser fan, controlled in fan control. Neither work. Testing voltage now.

If MS provides ground, then 12v should always be going to plug, correct? Where does the fan get its 12v from?

EDIT: Pulled apart harness to move Knock from X21 to M3. Also checked fan control was wired to injector banks 1 and 2. Wideband was incorrectly wired as well. Fixed it.

 

why banks? use inj efgh for outputs.