Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky
#261
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Our clutch switch override will not fit over the ECU/cruise switch. It only fits over the starter interlock. Skidude, I think you're mixed up with what happened. The starter switch isn't involved in the cruise control. The diagrams don't lie!
I have seen a number of people try to build their own starter interlock by cutting the wires off the switch and splicing them together. This works perfectly - unless you cut the wires for the wrong switch. Then you end up with the cruise control not working properly and odd idle behavior.
I have seen a number of people try to build their own starter interlock by cutting the wires off the switch and splicing them together. This works perfectly - unless you cut the wires for the wrong switch. Then you end up with the cruise control not working properly and odd idle behavior.
#263
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Dem, how much material did you take off when you surfaced the flywheel? It doesn't look like you machined the step pads to match, so that likely has a lot to do with your disengagement issues. DSM's are notorious for this. BTW, check to make sure you're consistently uncovering the pressure bleed hole in the master on the upstroke of the clutch pedal, or else the system won't adjust itself for disc wear.
#264
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Hmm.. Not much. It's not having disengagement issues. It says in the manual that the master cylinder will likely need to be adjusted because it's a performance clutch. I wouldn't say anything is out of the ordinary at all.
#265
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It doesn't now, but it did, obviously.
If you think about the motion ratio of the clutch system, 6" of pedal throw is only ~.1" of movement at the pressure plate. .020" change in setup height becomes a little more significant in that light is all I'm saying. If it functions at the limit of the adjustment range then right on, just be careful that everything is actually working correctly. One of my buddies chased silly master adjustment issues for weeks after doing an S2000 master swap on his Civic, only to find out that it was simply out of the adjustment range and wasn't reliably uncovering the bleed back valve.
#270
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- I'd like to keep the quick spool - Even if that means I dont break 400 whp.
- I'm open to running a T3 Flange - I'll modify the manifold to support
- If I need to get tricky and externally gate this thing - I'm open ot that too.
I'm currently looking at the GT3071R. At 20PSI I'll make some really good power.
As it sits - I'm probably going to have to:
- Upgrade my intercooler (I have the BEGI level 3 intercooler now)
- Modify my manifold for T3
- Upgrade my intake manifold - I'm looking to do the Honda manifold
- Possibly external gate - Most likely.
#273
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I disagree on the 3251
If his 1st priority is spool I think 2871 .86 will suit him well. Its a t2 so no flange modification necessary. EWG is definitely a good idea though, and I'm not sure how well that thin walled s4 mani will like being cut and welded.
Either way though, a 2871 will probably require the least amount of modification to the rest of the system and have best pool. Probably will have to be run full tilt to hit 400 though (or really put that water/meth to use)
If you're goint 30r and larger, IMO you'll probably have to pretty much scrap most of your current setup and start over instead of hacking everything up to fit an externally gated t3.
Just my .02
If his 1st priority is spool I think 2871 .86 will suit him well. Its a t2 so no flange modification necessary. EWG is definitely a good idea though, and I'm not sure how well that thin walled s4 mani will like being cut and welded.
Either way though, a 2871 will probably require the least amount of modification to the rest of the system and have best pool. Probably will have to be run full tilt to hit 400 though (or really put that water/meth to use)
If you're goint 30r and larger, IMO you'll probably have to pretty much scrap most of your current setup and start over instead of hacking everything up to fit an externally gated t3.
Just my .02
#277
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Wrong. EFR is trampling over the GTX. Do some goddamn research.
I'd have to agree. If you want to keep it simple, the 2871 is probably your best option. At full tilt you can make 400whp (or damn close to it) and not compromise spool.
ATP sells just the CHRA and the comp. housing, so all you have to do is swap out the parts. You can even keep the turbine housing attached to the manifold and downpipe while you swap CHRA's.
I'd have to agree. If you want to keep it simple, the 2871 is probably your best option. At full tilt you can make 400whp (or damn close to it) and not compromise spool.
ATP sells just the CHRA and the comp. housing, so all you have to do is swap out the parts. You can even keep the turbine housing attached to the manifold and downpipe while you swap CHRA's.
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#280
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Lol. OP asked for a dyno cart of the gt3251. I didn't have one so I gave him some numbers. I know he knows his Hondas if he didn't I wouldnt of bothered sharing. Wasnt trying to compare engines just give him a helpful idea to what the STC GT3251e is able to do. If he plans on modding his manifold to t3 and run an external wastegate the the stc Gt3251e is still in his budget. He could stay t2 internally gated but the cost to redesign and set up the cartage and housing would cost the same if not more. Another plus will be better boost control and less chance of creep. He may even see more power because of it. He also won't have the option to go BB.
If he wanted to save a little more and wasn't concerned about spool between shifts i say just run a water cooler journal bearing. Expecilly if it's just a street car.
If he wanted to save a little more and wasn't concerned about spool between shifts i say just run a water cooler journal bearing. Expecilly if it's just a street car.