Boosting on a Budget: Greddy Kit Done *Right*
#101
there a bunch of little things MSM specific even inside the MSM long block which are slightly different design and have different part numbers.
is the overall system not ideal and band-aided together? yes absolutely.
But once you actually do some research on this subject, you'll be surprised at how much crap we tend to regurgitate about the MSM is actually false.
by the way: almost every factory turbo car I've seen thus far has at least a couple really silly things done to it which defy logic and common sense. it's what happens when engineers are overruled by lawyers and bean counters. there are things that come out....just....plain...dumb
#102
Whether it is or isnt (i have exactly 0 first hand knowledge or experience with anything MSM) doesn't matter as flywheels arnt known to fail with power. Even stock 1.6 casting can hold up to stupid power. So dont let it be a deciding factor for you.
I was hoping for something like, "there is more clutch integrated into the MSM clutch". lol
I was hoping for something like, "there is more clutch integrated into the MSM clutch". lol
Edit: It so sounds cool to say I have an '05 Mazdaspeed part on my '90 turd.
#103
The MSM flywheel was designed and engineered for a forced induction application so yes, it is stronger and more integral than a "normal" 1.8 motor's flywheel.
The 1.8 fw is supposed to be 18-19 pounds and the MSM fw is supposed to be 17-18 pounds. So there is also a chance that it is lighter. I couldn't get a straight answer from Mazda.
The 1.8 fw is supposed to be 18-19 pounds and the MSM fw is supposed to be 17-18 pounds. So there is also a chance that it is lighter. I couldn't get a straight answer from Mazda.
I was curious. Here's a link:
2004 Mazda Miata PISTON, CRANKSHAFT & FLYWHEEL
You can clearly see that piston assemblies are different turbo vs. non-turbo (reference number 23-200). But the flywheel assemblies seem to be the same part number for all 2004 Miatas (reference number 11-500). Rosenthal's part listing is the same, flywheels for all 1994-2005 Miatas are under the same part number.
Anyways, my original question stands. One thing I did notice in the parts diagram is that they list 2 different ring gears, one for the Yoshiwa transmission and a different one for the Kanda transmission. Perhaps one of those is the MSM shot-peened unit?
Edit: The Kanda vs. Yoshiwa ring gear distinction appears in the parts manuals for multiple years of Miatas, including years where a MSM didn't exist. So, that does not seem to be a MSM distinction -- although I'm still curious about the different ring gears.
Last edited by hornetball; 07-04-2015 at 05:17 PM.
#104
Steve, we don't accept CR-level research/posting here. If you're going to say the flywheels are different, then we need a good reference.
I was curious. Here's a link:
2004 Mazda Miata PISTON, CRANKSHAFT & FLYWHEEL
You can clearly see that piston assemblies are different turbo vs. non-turbo (reference number 23-200). But the flywheel assemblies seem to be the same part number for all 2004 Miatas (reference number 11-500). Rosenthal's part listing is the same, flywheels for all 1994-2005 Miatas are under the same part number.
Anyways, my original question stands. One thing I did notice in the parts diagram is that they list 2 different ring gears, one for the Yoshiwa transmission and a different one for the Kanda transmission. Perhaps one of those is the MSM shot-peened unit?
I was curious. Here's a link:
2004 Mazda Miata PISTON, CRANKSHAFT & FLYWHEEL
You can clearly see that piston assemblies are different turbo vs. non-turbo (reference number 23-200). But the flywheel assemblies seem to be the same part number for all 2004 Miatas (reference number 11-500). Rosenthal's part listing is the same, flywheels for all 1994-2005 Miatas are under the same part number.
Anyways, my original question stands. One thing I did notice in the parts diagram is that they list 2 different ring gears, one for the Yoshiwa transmission and a different one for the Kanda transmission. Perhaps one of those is the MSM shot-peened unit?
#105
SadFab CEO
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Dont assume the people us mere mortals can contact at a dealership know a fuking thing about anything. It would seem like (and should be) a perfectly reasonable assumption to make, but unless you happened to get a guy on the phone who is a fanatic about the particular chassis in question (like if 18psi worked at a suby dealership, in which case they are probably a forum member anyway), they dont know anything their little box with a keyboard cant tell them.
Always start by looking up the part numbers.
#106
Here's one bit of lighting I did yesterday... 1157 HP24 switchbacks from Diode Dynamics! They basically act as a LED DRL (white) when your parking lights/headlights are on and then also double as a LED turn signal (amber) when your turn signals or hazards are on.
Before and after comparison shot
I couldn't get a shot that really do these bulbs justice but they are extremely bright. Not obnoxious, though... Just a really nice, crisp, and modern look.
I had to install a pair of resistors in order to prevent the turns from hyperblinking. The entire installation only took all of 15 minutes.
I'll post more of my lighting stuff I did yesterday in a bit
Before and after comparison shot
I couldn't get a shot that really do these bulbs justice but they are extremely bright. Not obnoxious, though... Just a really nice, crisp, and modern look.
I had to install a pair of resistors in order to prevent the turns from hyperblinking. The entire installation only took all of 15 minutes.
I'll post more of my lighting stuff I did yesterday in a bit
#111
Here some shots from my headlight retrofit. I was iffy about it at first but I actually like how they ended up turning out. They pair nicely with my switchbacks. I swapped out my switchbacks to a different color temperature so that they would coordinate a bit better (Went from 4000K to 5200K).
Low beam lights and angel eye
Low beams and angel eyes- You can see why I wanted to swap out my switchbacks to a cooler temperature here
Just the angel eye
Overall, very pleased with the improved look and functionality of this setup. The parking lights acting as DRLs and my new headlights greatly increase visibility at night. The nice and modern look is sweet, too!
Low beam lights and angel eye
Low beams and angel eyes- You can see why I wanted to swap out my switchbacks to a cooler temperature here
Just the angel eye
Overall, very pleased with the improved look and functionality of this setup. The parking lights acting as DRLs and my new headlights greatly increase visibility at night. The nice and modern look is sweet, too!
#113
I got my resurfaced flywheel back yesterday and FM got their clutch kit to me yesterday as well so it looks like I'll be doing my clutch install soon. Hopefully I can get it all installed, adjusted, and broken in by the weekend.
#114
Clutch adjusted?
This is typically the time you discover your clutch hydraulics are weak. Plan on a clutch master and slave if they're not recent. They're cheap. Rebuilds from the Zone work just fine. Also, the pilot bearing is almost always crunchy and should be replaced -- you probably already popped it out when you got your flywheel resurfaced.
This is typically the time you discover your clutch hydraulics are weak. Plan on a clutch master and slave if they're not recent. They're cheap. Rebuilds from the Zone work just fine. Also, the pilot bearing is almost always crunchy and should be replaced -- you probably already popped it out when you got your flywheel resurfaced.
#115
Clutch adjusted?
This is typically the time you discover your clutch hydraulics are weak. Plan on a clutch master and slave if they're not recent. They're cheap. Rebuilds from the Zone work just fine. Also, the pilot bearing is almost always crunchy and should be replaced -- you probably already popped it out when you got your flywheel resurfaced.
This is typically the time you discover your clutch hydraulics are weak. Plan on a clutch master and slave if they're not recent. They're cheap. Rebuilds from the Zone work just fine. Also, the pilot bearing is almost always crunchy and should be replaced -- you probably already popped it out when you got your flywheel resurfaced.
I was thinking about those last night. Might pick up some new ones or rebuilds. How important would you say a stainless steel clutch line is? I got new pilot and throwout bearings ready to go in when I do the install, thanks!
#118
SadFab CEO
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From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
Only if its the extended version that does away with the hard line
Or the TCM which i like more as it has the angle at one end.
Worth every penny just for cleanliness and to get rid if the stupid hard line alone.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...6/#post1241068
(scroll to the bottom of that post for installed pics)
#119
Only if its the extended version that does away with the hard line
Or the TCM which i like more as it has the angle at one end.
Worth every penny just for cleanliness and to get rid if the stupid hard line alone.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...6/#post1241068
(scroll to the bottom of that post for installed pics)
Or the TCM which i like more as it has the angle at one end.
Worth every penny just for cleanliness and to get rid if the stupid hard line alone.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...6/#post1241068
(scroll to the bottom of that post for installed pics)
Would it be easier to replace all of this at once along with my clutch install or would it be easy enough to do this HOK install after the clutch is already installed and everything?