Last year the car suffered a lot of cosmetic damage from the mean streets of NYC and unfortunately due to work and study it got neglected. NOW its time to make the dream car a reality. Me and a bunch of my buddies all work on our cars together. We are the Bolshevik crew.
Car as it is now; It is mostly stock (Meet & greet thread)

The Plan:
Build a 300-400 whp car with our limited tools, skills, budget and time.
Picked up another 1.8L BP engine to build on a stand
Wiseco forged Pistons and rods
ACL bearings (most likely will change) (to be decided)
Billet oil pump
ARP Head studs
Supertech valve springs
Megasquirt MS3x
ebay cast iron manifold
TiAL external wastegate
Big(ish) turbo - hard choice but leaning towards GT2871R (to be decided)
ebay intercooler core
BOV (to be decided)
Fuel pump (to be decided)
Injectors (to be decided)
FM Fuel Rail
Aeromotive FPR
Coil over packs (to be decided)
ACT Performance XTSS clutch

Step 1: Destroy the interior.
I've planned to throw our all of the stock wiring from the car and make my own harness(s). I'm deleting a lot of the circuits from the car (sis, air condition, speakers, power locks,etc) so i see absolutely no point in using the stock wiring. Furthermore i want to relocate the MS3x, relays and fuses behind the dash on the passenger side. Deleting AC and Heating creates a ton of room for all that. Also want to relocate the body circuits wiring to the passenger side fender.


I really should organize my tools a bit better..

Step 2: Design new wiring diagrams, order and assemble MS3x, make new wiring harness

 

Reserved #1

 

Reserved #2

 

Organize the tools! It will make the whole process so much better.

Look into VS855 valve springs.
No need for the FPR with ms3.
Use the OEM fuel rail until you need to upgrade.

Keep up thee good work.

 

I don't see a 6 speed transmission on that list, or a clutch. Fuel rail is unnecessary.

ID1000'S should get you where you want to be, hp.

 

Thank you, I'll check out those springs

could you elaborate on the FPR and ms3?

Clutch added I'll stick it out with the 5 speed and open diff in the beginning until it breaks

 

You should not need a fuel pressure regulator.

 

Your diff probably won't break. People buy torsens for performance, but there isn't much of a strength difference that I am aware of, unless we are talking about an MSM unit.
Your transmission will probably break very quickly at that power level, so you might as well just put it on the list from the very beginning and change it when you do the clutch job.
Occasionally you can find 6 speeds on ebay that get mistaken for 5 speeds for really cheap, so learn how to visually identify one.

 

Maybe he meant fuel pump?

Edit: Nvm he lists both in his build list.