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Hey everyone. I hope you will welcome my Evo in the mt.net build threads. I have come to absolutely love this forum, and love the members, so I'd really like to share this journey with you all.
So basically, the car is a single owner, unmodified (yes, that's right. completely bone stock at purchase date. Stock down to the factory riced tail lights), very well maintained 2005 Mitsubishi Evolution MR.
For those that aren't aware, the MR came with an aluminum instead of steel roof for lower center of gravity, a 6 speed (very nice ratios, but generally a weaker trans as the 6 speed is 6 gears made thinner to fit inside the original 5 speed case), cool trim pieces (Evolution MR center console, billet and carbon fiber E-brake), awesome Bilstein suspension and BBS wheels.
It is also the first year that the Mitsubishi ACD (Active Center Differential. Allows the car to adjust to Tarmac, Gravel, and Snow settings) was fitted to the USDM Evo.
Bought the car, loved the **** out of it. I did all the maintenance one should after buying a used car. Full drivetrain fluid flush, among other things. Then, I proceeded to drive the thing hard. Which was, as expected, hilariously fun.
Through an HKS Hi-Power catback on it and a Megan Racing resonated test pipe. The car absolutely lit to life after doing that. Turbocharger spooled so much faster, and the car just pulled so much harder all the way to the top. Sounded beautiful as well.
Took the car on gravel. Used the factory launch control. Results were silly fun.
My buddy Richard at VL Motorsports flashed the ECU (Yes, flashable stock ECU!) with a custom ROM that enabled cool functions such as flashing CEL after the knock sensor is triggered.
Unfortunately, the cars aren't tuned well for crappy California 91, so they tend to frequently knock from the factory. At least now I could see when it happened.
So one night, I'm pulling WOT through a tunnel, when knock sensor flashes at redline at WOT and the car bucks. ****.
I was about 45 minutes from home, all freeway. Every time I went over 15% or so load, the car would just buck over and over. I limped the car home, well under freeway speeds (luckily it was late at night).
My initial assumption was that I blew an intercooler hose and had a massive boost/vacuum leak somewhere. Nope.
Head gasket test confirms that the head gasket is toast, car is overheating and eventually stops starting due to loss of compression and a faulty crank angle sensor.
I'm one of those people who likes to do things right, once. If we were going in for a head gasket on my 150k mile engine, the engine was coming apart and being built.
My goals for the engine over everything is longevity. Looking to make 300-450whp, but also have an engine that won't be running such loose tolerances and heavy rods that it will rattle itself to oblivion before 40k miles.
The tear down begins.
In regards to the numerous fluid spills:
"well, its like open-heart surgery... you remove organs, they bleed"
Port matching courtesy of Anthony at VL Motorsports!
Engine is now in the disassembly phase, as it prepares to be bored, decked, hot tanked, and balanced at the machine shop.
I went with a relatively interesting piston choice. On EvolutionM.net, it is "Wiseco or die, bro. My tuner said." Hence, why I don't post much on that forum.
Through my long nights of research, I came up with the finding that the typical 2618 alloy used in forged pistons, while significantly stronger, needs much bigger tolerances due to greater expansion under cold starts. Obviously, this is not ideal for longevity (one of my main goals for the engine build).
I decided to run a 4032 alloy piston. That left me with only two choices on the Evo aftermarket. JE pistons are good pistons.
But I chose Mahle.
I'm half German, and I like German ****. Call me biased, but this piston is very cool.
Features:
Forged piston for performance applications
Fully-machined crown
Grafal anti-Friction coating on skirts*
Phosphate-coated to reduce micro-welding and pin galling**
Pin bores binished on CNC boring equipment
Deburred
High strength, light weight steel pins
Race proven round wire locks
Low drag ring pak
Light weight slipper kirt forgings
These pistons are awesome:
Manufacture date stamped on the piston. These things have waited a long time to make burn fuel.
And the rods. I went with Manley H-Tuff's. They are significantly beefier than the standard Manley H Beam's, but are still lighter than the stock rods. They come with 3/8" ARP studs.
Stock rod weight: ~690g
Manley H-Tuff weight: ~631g
The rest of the internal parts list is as follows:
Clevite Bearings (Longevity!)
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
Cometic Head Gasket
New OEM oil pump
Complete gasket set
Timing Belt + WP + etc Kit
The head is getting GSC S1 cams. They are a very street and driveability friendly cam set. Nothing but torque gains all the way through the rev range, with stock-like idle. Duration:
Intake: 264
Exhaust: 264 Duration at 1mm:
Intake: 216
Exhaust: 220 Peak Lift:
11.00mm
10.50mm Center Line:
107
103
As far as other parts for the build:
Works 3" Downpipe (Ceramic Coated)
Megan Racing O2 Housing (Ceramic Coated)
ETS Intercooler Piping (stock Evo piping is just pathetic)
Undecided Recirc. BPV
Koyorad
Silicone Rad Hoses
Other ****?
Hope everyone is enjoying the thread... I know it's not a Miata. But boosted cars are fun, and you guys are a fun, intelligent crowd.
Mahle pistons are a top choice for some "car communities" and mostly unheard of in others.
I worked with Mahle engineers at my former job. They are a huge company that supplies many OEMs with pistons. They generally know their sh*t and make great products.
Mahle pistons are a top choice for some "car communities" and mostly unheard of in others.
I worked with Mahle engineers at my former job. They are a huge company that supplies many OEMs with pistons. They generally know their sh*t and make great products.
This is what I hear as well. The fact that they are used as OEM's in a lot of high end engines really sold me on the product. Glad to hear your positive experience with the company.
I think I need to drive another evo. I drove a stock X 2013 GSR a few weeks ago and was super disappointed. Need to give it another shot i think, maybe that one wasn't totally healthy.
I think I need to drive another evo. I drove a stock X 2013 GSR a few weeks ago and was super disappointed. Need to give it another shot i think, maybe that one wasn't totally healthy.
Well if you ever come to the CA Bay Area, you can go give mine a shot.
I have to say the X is going to be a lot more of a blunt instrument than the raw cars the 8's and 9's (and I'd imagine even more so the JDM early Evo's).
Think NC Miata vs NA.
The 8's and 9's certainly have a different charm to them that the X does not.
Thanks for the offer! I have been finding myself in the bay area every October for the last three years now, and the trend is set to repeat next October
I am expecting you are right about the difference in feel between the generations. I was just hugely disappointed by the interior and drivetrain refinement. I mean, this was a used car that would sell for more than a new WRX, and I'd rather have the new WRX any day of the week.
I expect the 8 and 9 displays the same lack of refinement, but with greater reward in the raw badassedness department due to being significantly lighter.
Thanks for the offer! I have been finding myself in the bay area every October for the last three years now, and the trend is set to repeat next October
I am expecting you are right about the difference in feel between the generations. I was just hugely disappointed by the interior and drivetrain refinement. I mean, this was a used car that would sell for more than a new WRX, and I'd rather have the new WRX any day of the week.
I expect the 8 and 9 displays the same lack of refinement, but with greater reward in the raw badassedness department due to being significantly lighter.
Well, interior wise I would say it is a significantly unrefined experience. The interior is very very basic. That being said, I haven't owned a modern car in many years, and it is very refreshing to be driving a car in the mid 2000's era. My weather seals are good so wind noise is pretty kept down, and the noise insulation is pretty good as well. Although most of the surfaces you see and touch are basic, they are "solidly basic".
I actually just bought these door cards from an SSL (Sun, Sound, Leather) Evo 9. The panels they replace are horrible. The arm rest is literally hard plastic with a piece of alcantara on top. Looks soft, but will literally make your elbow go numb if you hit it too hard. The leather and soft arm rests will be much appreciated.
As far as the drivetrain refinement, yeah, you're right on the money for the most part. My car does have the 6 speed, which although can't hold as much torque, seems to be a much more comfortable and refined gear box than the standard 5 (I've driven both).
What do you think of the mid 2005 period WRX and STi? I have been around a few lately and I have to say I am pretty disappointed with the overall build quality. The internet had always told me that Subaru build quality destroys Mitsubishi, but after sitting in them, closing the doors (rattles like a damn Miata), and seeing the undercarriage, I think that is bull. To be fair though, I've never driven any, and I like the newer Subaru build quality a lot.
I haven't spent a LOT of time in the earlier WRXs, but I'd say they're marginally better than the Evo I drove. Two days after I drove the Evo I drove a stock 2009 WRX hatch and enjoyed it much more than the Evo. Interior still sucked but the car felt much more solid and the drivetrain felt more robust. On quick shifts, the Evo emitted a clunk out of the rear end (this was a 22k mile car) and just didn't feel confidence inspiring. Had a meaty midrange though.
I was probably just expecting too much. But yes the 2015+ WRXs are still basic inside but feel much more solid and the materials are much better.
Lol yeah I know that rear end clunk... those are the mounts in the drivetrain allowing the whole assembly to shift, and when the torque comes on it causes that clunk.
The owner of VL Motorsports' Evo 9 has completely fucked trans mounts and pushes 350-400whp, and clunks HARD haha.
I guess in that respect, my Evo feels great in that the mounts are in great condition, and there is no drivetrain slop or knocks or clunks. I think you would really enjoy it. It does give that "solid" confidence inspiring feel.
I've always really had a thing for the Subaru hatches. The STi in the hatchback generation was one of my favorites. Although as far as hatchbacks go, the 2017 Mazda 3 Hatch will likely end up in my garage in the future. Gorgeous car.
Got a bunch of photos to upload, so I'm going to dump them and caption them here.
Manley H-Tuff rods and Mahle PowerPak pistons assembled.
New, larger Forced Performance 71 HTA CHRA.
Bottom end assembled.
ARP everything.
Ported head with Supertech valvetrain, ARP exhaust studs, and GSC S1 cams bolted up to the stealthy ported Forced Performance Cast Race Manifold.
Long block almost together. Intake side. Gates racing timing and balance shaft belts, new oil pump. All new everything really... ARP cam gear bolts, AEM cam gears... lots of good stuff still to go on. Long block almost together.
Excellent build so far. I'm certainly not familiar with the aftermarket for the evo community, but as I just popped a ringland in my STI I'll be going through this soon as well.