I think NASA just sticks to it because "that's the way it's always been". And they stay in business because NASA pays every time they put someone on the dyno, so they changed the rules the day of the event that said we could only use Arizona Dyno Chip for testing and compliance, so they could pay MCE $70 in order to DQ me and take away all my contingency lol. At one of the events I think they ran like 50 cars in a weekend, most of them were voluntary but still like $70 a pop that's decent money.


And yes I'll be out there, I always do both days, win more tires that way. Will you be at the Inde event in September?

 

probably not. need to get it turboed and tuned, i want to stay close to home for the first track day just in case whatever happens.

 

Plenty of time man. Just go anyways, Inde is an awesome track. If you break, I'll have my trailer there and we can tow your car home and drive mine back. It's still registered and insured.

 

in that case i may go. having my 2nd kid here soon too, so im not sure how free ill be, ill let you know.

 

My dad got the ducting finished up for the oil cooler. Same plexi that the airbox is made out of. Used heater hose on the edges to seal to the cooler and so that the plexi doesn't melt. It's pretty much sealed to the front turn signal opening, turned out pretty good.




Also found this piece of aluminum pipe and a couple t-bolt clamps laying around, much smoother and simpler than the previous setup that was here which was a combination of a bunch of clamps and couplers and pieces of exhaust tubing and a 90 degree silicone bend. Can look back in this thread if you want to see a picture of how it used to be.

 

Took out all of the things. It's now at fab getting the front half of the car caged so it will be ready for wheel to wheel.

 

Getting pretty excited about the cage. Pics below are just various stages of completion. The first couple with the shiny tubing is just a practice piece with cheap tubing before bending up the more expensive DOM tubing so don't freak out.

The fitment so far is nuts. There are a lot of places around the top that you can barely fit a sheet of paper between the bars and the hard top. Everything is super tucked, you can barely see any of the forward half of the cage from the outside. I'm 6'5" and size big so space was critical for me and Junior at FatHead Fabrication is doing an awesome job. Should be done soon.

In the meantime here's what I've ordered in preparation for the jump to wheel to wheel.

Joe's Racing Switch Panel (Ignition - Start - Universal Switch x2)
Joe's Racing Master Cutoff Switch 4 Pole
Joe's Racing Window Net Mount Kit 18"
Joe's Racing 17" Wide Angle Mirror with 9" brackets.
RaceQuip SFI Mesh Window Net
AllStar SFI Rated Rollbar Padding (6 feet)
2.5lbs. Halotron Fire Extinguisher (Will also have 1lb. Sodium Bicarb extinguisher as well)
Master Cutoff/Fire Extinguisher Stickers

Also:
Supermiata driveshaft
Set of 15x9" Advanti Storm S1 in Grey
Need to order 205/50R15 Hoosier R7 (new class I'm going to at ProAuto has a 205mm tire width limit.)

Pics, remember that it's not done yet. Still door bars and gussets for various parts to do. And the firewall landing points etc.

 

I really like the way that came out, that guy does really good work.

 

That cage work looks awesome.

As long as you're doing cage work, you might think about revising the seatback brace to tie into the cage rather than the sheet metal bulkhead. Just a thought.

 

Thanks guys. I think I might have forgot to mention that he also did the rollbar like three years ago which is back half of the cage that is still painted blue. The forward landing boxes that are blue were from the previous doorbars that were cut out to be redone with full nascar bars.

I like the brace where it is. It's actually just resting against the middle C channel reinforcement that's welded into the seat. I don't have any second thoughts about the seat mounting in a crash situation. I'm not really a fan of having a pole bolted into a piece of sheet aluminum that is aimed at my spine is all.

 

<p>Cage looks ****. You should throw that 9180 on the miata and see what happens </p>

 

Probably wouldn't make boost until near redline then the motor would come apart lmao. I have a GT2052 and some Turbosmart goodies sitting here but maybe later.

 

<p>Would be a good show though </p>

 

Whats the RX putting down? or you dont know yet? only read last page of build, looks like its not done.

And BTW, non equal length primaries blowing up engines and turbos. WT actual F?

 

Yeah some of the people over there are not so bright... should have seen the thread where someone said that e85 would melt the aluminum rotor housings. LOL. I mostly hang out on rx7club for info, way better over there.

The RX8 isn't done yet, but it should be able to break 600WHP and around 500WTQ.

 

I want a ride. Is it going to be street legal by chance?

EDIT- OBD2 car, nvm

 

Yup. Just barely. Doing my best to keep a passenger seat in it as well.

 

OMG that will be giggles with the ricer crowd, especially in mesa.

 

Heading out in a few hours to pick up the car, roll cage is all done. Getting super pumped about doing some wheel to wheel stuff, I've only done one race before but everyone in the field had at least triple my horsepower. Still beat 3 guys though LOL.

To do list:
Paint Roll Cage
Install Roll Cage Padding
Trim and Install Dash
Reinstall Seats/Harnesses
Reinstall/Mount ECU
Mount Window Net
Mount/Wire Master Cutoff Switch
Mount/Wire Switch Panel for start/ignition/transponder/laptimer
Move Wired Transponder to Front Bumper instead of Rear Bumper
Mount Blind Apex Lap Timer
Install Roll Cage Mounted Rear View Window
Swap in Supermiata Driveshaft
Change Trans/Diff Fluid
Install Front Windshield (Already Scheduled)
Get Hoosier R7's Mounted
Stickers... lots of stickers...

 

I love how the gussets tie everything together. Both literally and figuratively.