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Currently working out all the wiring for the swap.
I need the following new connections. Everything else stays the same on my current harness.
TPS
Knock
VVT
Crank
Cam
VICS
I have connectors for all of these, but I have had wires break on old connectors so I will be purchasing new pins, depining the old connectors, and putting new pins and seals in. Instead of buying a whole bunch of new connectors.
Buy a vvt engine harness, carefully crimp it to your engine harness. It's incredibly clean, and makes engine pulls very easy. A lot of work, but essentially converts your engine harness to nb.
EFR water fittings. I thought I had read people having issues finding them.
Can I not just run one of the many M14x1.5 to AN6 fittings I find on ebay/jegs? Seems like there are tons.
M14x1.5 with copper crush washer -> AN6 male, then use whatever AN6 fittings you want. It's working fabulously for me. If space constrained, forged AN6 90 will save you some space over the tubular longer radius 90 or whatever angle you need, but I see very few reasons to buy the ultra expensive low profile reduced diameter banjos unless they are actually needed.
But again, its all about space and how much you have to work with.
I wouldn't go narrower than .004 on a 2618 piston, regardless of the noise. With STs you can run smaller and not worry because of the alloy. My DD (Acamas) has Supertechs and it's no louder than a stock engine on startup. I light it off and go immediately, just like I would on a stock engine. Just stay out of heavy boost until the EBC turns on at ~160*F.
I did that on my stock 1.6 as is, so not really an issue for me, heck i don't drive any of my cars hard cold. Especially with the special 200*F thermostat
I think they learned from the lessons of others in just taking their time to do it. Maybe they'll release it, maybe they won't. I hope they will, but only time will tell.