Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
#3281
I would not run plastic. Brakes get pretty hot on track.
If you make your own the cheapest way to get the right size centering is to use 2-3/4" od 1/2" wall aluminum tubing. It is $25 per foot, but you can get a bunch of rings out of it.
Speedy Metals 2-3/4" OD x 1.750" ID x .500" Wall 6061 Aluminum Round Tube
If you make your own the cheapest way to get the right size centering is to use 2-3/4" od 1/2" wall aluminum tubing. It is $25 per foot, but you can get a bunch of rings out of it.
Speedy Metals 2-3/4" OD x 1.750" ID x .500" Wall 6061 Aluminum Round Tube
#3285
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Yes, cheap metal place, will run by tomorrow on lunch break.
I thought they would be fine, but was also under the assumption they were good to more than 280F. If they do melt, its not going to cause a catastrophic failure or anything, just dont take your wheels off until you get replacements. If its a daily and you get a flat after you melted them at a track day, youre fucked. As you said, they only locate the rotor while the wheel is being installed.
#3286
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<p>if you don't have AAA you're doin it wrong.</p><p>going to cancel my order of the plastic ones until you say whether or not they have some metal in stock</p>
#3291
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Community build thread...Aidan rambles on and on...
They exist though, I had to Google it
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-...FZKGaQodOTwIog
I'm not saying the ring will melt, and if they did I don't think it would be because they were a 1/4" further in locating a rotor instead of a wheel. But track duty.... why do some people need inconel?
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-...FZKGaQodOTwIog
I'm not saying the ring will melt, and if they did I don't think it would be because they were a 1/4" further in locating a rotor instead of a wheel. But track duty.... why do some people need inconel?
#3294
Seriously guys! Just do a search on caliper temps and you will see how hot calipers can get I think the Singular guys posted some data where they measured over 500 deg on non ducted calipers. The rotor surface must get even hotter, granted the hubs aren't that hot, but they are attached to pieces of steel that can get so hot that they glow red. These rotors get hot enough in the hub areas that we have to run high temp grease or experience accelerated hub failures. Why would you think a plastic ring would survive on the track. I bet I could melt a plastic ring with just some mountain driving. Its not like you are saving $100 bucks going with plastic rings.
Good luck finding material to make rings! Its hard to find the 2-3/6" tubing! It can also be done with 2-3/4 or 3" solid round stock, but that is a lot of waste.
Good luck finding material to make rings! Its hard to find the 2-3/6" tubing! It can also be done with 2-3/4 or 3" solid round stock, but that is a lot of waste.
#3300
If they do melt, they've really nowhere to go. If you don't take it apart hot they'll probably just resolidify all up in there.
I don't think I'm gonna get material for brackets till next week, Metal by the Foot, Inc. is where I usually go for small quantities since I can drive there. Thinking about it now, I might make one piece stepped spacers for my wheels and the rotors both, if plastic melts.
I think my konigs use 73mm bore? Fricken 3" 1/2 wall is $40 for a foot. Still won't easily fit in my lathe. Doesn't have to be perfect, I'll just mill the bitches in softjaws.
I don't think I'm gonna get material for brackets till next week, Metal by the Foot, Inc. is where I usually go for small quantities since I can drive there. Thinking about it now, I might make one piece stepped spacers for my wheels and the rotors both, if plastic melts.
I think my konigs use 73mm bore? Fricken 3" 1/2 wall is $40 for a foot. Still won't easily fit in my lathe. Doesn't have to be perfect, I'll just mill the bitches in softjaws.