Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
#221
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Future Plans:
1. Tune Tune Tune
2. Install stock undertray
3. Install new springs (550f/350r)
4. Install new seats, back braces, harnesses (thanks hi_im_sean!)
5. Wire open wastegate and run as many track days as I can fit in on my street tires.
6. Get better at driving
7. Turn up boost
8. Pop
9. 1.8 swap
10. Allofit
1. Tune Tune Tune
2. Install stock undertray
3. Install new springs (550f/350r)
4. Install new seats, back braces, harnesses (thanks hi_im_sean!)
5. Wire open wastegate and run as many track days as I can fit in on my street tires.
6. Get better at driving
7. Turn up boost
8. Pop
9. 1.8 swap
10. Allofit
#224
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For me its the hot restarts. Also it seems every time I run auto tune it changes. Goes lean then rich. Can't find a middle ground. That might just be my tuning though.
#227
Your ASE table with hot restart with any rx injector will look like a U shape pretty much any thing over 130 will need more fuel on start up. I recently bought the rx8 550s and have the same issues as the 460s as I did with the miata 265s. I believe the stock system used that sensor hooked up to the fpr to increase fuel on hot starts. IDK maybe someone else will chime in
#228
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Your ASE table with hot restart with any rx injector will look like a U shape pretty much any thing over 130 will need more fuel on start up. I recently bought the rx8 550s and have the same issues as the 460s as I did with the miata 265s. I believe the stock system used that sensor hooked up to the fpr to increase fuel on hot starts. IDK maybe someone else will chime in
#229
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OK, I think you guys (along with some others) have convinced me that there is no need to go to a return style fuel system. My car runs fine and the ways that I'm controlling hot restarts works well. I was just getting OCD about normal returning to idle being rich until EGO catches up (possibly I could speed up the EGO algorithm).
And I think I have fueling dead spots during over-run (when cut is not activated), very low pulse widths (1.5mS neighborhood), but again, this has no real deficits except a swing in AFR when there is no power requirements anyway.
Otherwise, my tables are good, stable, and I don't get AFR fuel cuts any more (only warning blinks during FAST throttle transitions. So... I will leave good enough alone.
As far as size, I agree they are a bit small, but within my power goals, and likely will run out of fuel about the same time the TD04 runs out of air.
And I think I have fueling dead spots during over-run (when cut is not activated), very low pulse widths (1.5mS neighborhood), but again, this has no real deficits except a swing in AFR when there is no power requirements anyway.
Otherwise, my tables are good, stable, and I don't get AFR fuel cuts any more (only warning blinks during FAST throttle transitions. So... I will leave good enough alone.
As far as size, I agree they are a bit small, but within my power goals, and likely will run out of fuel about the same time the TD04 runs out of air.
#230
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OK, I think you guys (along with some others) have convinced me that there is no need to go to a return style fuel system. My car runs fine and the ways that I'm controlling hot restarts works well. I was just getting OCD about normal returning to idle being rich until EGO catches up (possibly I could speed up the EGO algorithm).
And I think I have fueling dead spots during over-run (when cut is not activated), very low pulse widths (1.5mS neighborhood), but again, this has no real deficits except a swing in AFR when there is no power requirements anyway.
Otherwise, my tables are good, stable, and I don't get AFR fuel cuts any more (only warning blinks during FAST throttle transitions. So... I will leave good enough alone.
As far as size, I agree they are a bit small, but within my power goals, and likely will run out of fuel about the same time the TD04 runs out of air.
And I think I have fueling dead spots during over-run (when cut is not activated), very low pulse widths (1.5mS neighborhood), but again, this has no real deficits except a swing in AFR when there is no power requirements anyway.
Otherwise, my tables are good, stable, and I don't get AFR fuel cuts any more (only warning blinks during FAST throttle transitions. So... I will leave good enough alone.
As far as size, I agree they are a bit small, but within my power goals, and likely will run out of fuel about the same time the TD04 runs out of air.
#231
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Been working on EBC. I'm getting oscillations so that sucks. But holy **** the spool. 5th gear at highway speed pulls like 2nd did before the turbo. Mmmmmmm I'm in love. (Don't tell my gf )
#232
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Added the stock undertray back:
Then drove up to Seattle. Temps stayed at 170-175 the whole time. And barely went up under boost. Everything seems to be working fine. Boost in the rain is scary at times.
Then drove up to Seattle. Temps stayed at 170-175 the whole time. And barely went up under boost. Everything seems to be working fine. Boost in the rain is scary at times.
#234
Heres a simple PID method I use
First use the slider a slowly increase till you hit or get close to target.
Then add P to hit the target. Pulls should be on the highway in 4th just to spool the turbo up.
Then use I to remove ossilations while trying to reach target. As you add I you may need more P to hit target.
Finally if you get a little ossilation after hitting your target up top a D in increments of 1. Again you may need more P to hit target and I to smooth getting to target.
#235
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Heres a simple PID method I use
First use the slider a slowly increase till you hit or get close to target.
Then add P to hit the target. Pulls should be on the highway in 4th just to spool the turbo up.
Then use I to remove ossilations while trying to reach target. As you add I you may need more P to hit target.
Finally if you get a little ossilation after hitting your target up top a D in increments of 1. Again you may need more P to hit target and I to smooth getting to target.
First use the slider a slowly increase till you hit or get close to target.
Then add P to hit the target. Pulls should be on the highway in 4th just to spool the turbo up.
Then use I to remove ossilations while trying to reach target. As you add I you may need more P to hit target.
Finally if you get a little ossilation after hitting your target up top a D in increments of 1. Again you may need more P to hit target and I to smooth getting to target.
#236
Retired Mech Design Engr
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msq
Here is my present MSQ, with lots of EAE play going on.
Cold Starts are better now that I lowered the PWM on the Idle Valve during cranking, giving a real Choke. Still not perfect, but improved.
I am also using some heavy Low Pulse NL correction as an experiment.
I cannot explain the low VE #'s at 3K RPM, but, if anything, VEAL wants to take more fuel out. Seems real.
msq_here
I'm not saying that this is the cat's meow, but am posting because you asked. From standard Idle to Hot Restarts, EGO will swing -12 to +16. Quite a bit. Notice how I use the EGO authority to force EGO towards "0" (100%) as I accelerate quickly from idle.
Cold Starts are better now that I lowered the PWM on the Idle Valve during cranking, giving a real Choke. Still not perfect, but improved.
I am also using some heavy Low Pulse NL correction as an experiment.
I cannot explain the low VE #'s at 3K RPM, but, if anything, VEAL wants to take more fuel out. Seems real.
msq_here
I'm not saying that this is the cat's meow, but am posting because you asked. From standard Idle to Hot Restarts, EGO will swing -12 to +16. Quite a bit. Notice how I use the EGO authority to force EGO towards "0" (100%) as I accelerate quickly from idle.
#237
Your going to go back and forth between them but if you have ossilations start by adding some I till they go away. You might still have a little up top at the end of the gear. If so add 1 D until that goes away. Then you may notice that psi might drop if so add more P then restart the process to remove ossilations if any.
#238
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Your going to go back and forth between them but if you have ossilations start by adding some I till they go away. You might still have a little up top at the end of the gear. If so add 1 D until that goes away. Then you may notice that psi might drop if so add more P then restart the process to remove ossilations if any.