Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
#1982
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
<p>Idk, people rave about it so much I figured I had to try it.</p><p>
</p><p></p>
I put T6 on my toast and in my oatmeal. I put it in gasoline vehicles starting with 50k miles that have gone over 330k miles without a single internal engine issue. I jizz T6. It is the top oil I know of for the right additives in the right amounts. Just go on bobistheoilguy.com if you have questions. Everybody who knows oil knows it is the best.
#1984
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,448
Total Cats: 1,900
Its one of the "better" oils on the market, especially at the price point. After that is Valvoline VR1 or Amsoil but if you have our crazy paranoia and you change oil before every event, the cost of T6 is very attractive. You can get it for under $20/gal from WallyWorld and save even more if you catch it on sale/coupon.
Once I started tracking the car and following oil temps and associated oil pressure, I stopped using Mobil 1. They make nothing I'm interested in.
Once I started tracking the car and following oil temps and associated oil pressure, I stopped using Mobil 1. They make nothing I'm interested in.
#1985
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
<p>Turns out there are no wallyworlds near me. And they are the only people that sell it by the quart. Going to start ordering on amazon though. Less than 20 to my door. Still need some for an oil change tonight.</p>
#1986
T6 isn't cheaper than 0W40 M1, at least not here. They are about exactly the same price.
I've used M1 in everything I've ever driven, and my non-fun daily drivers don't get changed at 10K unless they're lucky. I don't see the point yet, I guess.
I should send some in. I have no oil cooler and I know it gets hot.
I've used M1 in everything I've ever driven, and my non-fun daily drivers don't get changed at 10K unless they're lucky. I don't see the point yet, I guess.
I should send some in. I have no oil cooler and I know it gets hot.
#1987
T6 is a diesel formulation and still contains high levels of anti-wear additives ("ZDDP" -- principally Zinc and Phosphorus). This is beneficial for flat-tappet engines like ours. Start doing oil analyses and you'll see the high levels of those additives. And, yes, if you get it from Wally World -- or when it is on sale at the "Zone" -- it's cheap. T6 meets SAE SM -- but not the later SAE gasoline specifications. Those specifications have evolved to prioritize fuel economy and preservation of new-generation catalytic converters over engine wear. If you run an older engine, especially one with flat-tappets, you are nuts if you use the new gasoline oils.
Personal experience, my Pontiac G8 lost its cam and a couple of lifters at around 34K miles. Known issue fixed under warranty. I was using the owner's manual recommended oil at the time. Switched over to T6 and am now above 100K miles with no further issues. My fuel economy did drop about 1mpg with the switch though.
**** the EPA. They don't like your old car.
Personal experience, my Pontiac G8 lost its cam and a couple of lifters at around 34K miles. Known issue fixed under warranty. I was using the owner's manual recommended oil at the time. Switched over to T6 and am now above 100K miles with no further issues. My fuel economy did drop about 1mpg with the switch though.
**** the EPA. They don't like your old car.
#1991
Anyways, I recommend that you do oil analyses rather than take some dudes' opinion off the internet (including mine). That's what really sold me on T6, even compared to race oils like Motul. Really great wear rates.