"After failed abortion, deezums sees the 1.8 light" Build
#501
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Just the guy I wanted to see. He is having trouble getting more than 14psi up high, and we were discussing possible causes last night.
Boost leak? Deezums ebay intercooler drops 6.9lbs? or just china T3?
Boost leak? Deezums ebay intercooler drops 6.9lbs? or just china T3?
#502
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So I know it's apples and oranges, 1.6 & 1.8. But I had a bit of trouble staying above 205kpa over 6 grand, I was at 100% boost duty. I started to increase the preload a half turn on my wastegate and was able to maintain 211kpa or so up top. I planned to continue, but the larger turbo showed up before I was done playing with it.
#503
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So I know it's apples and oranges, 1.6 & 1.8. But I had a bit of trouble staying above 205kpa over 6 grand, I was at 100% boost duty. I started to increase the preload a half turn on my wastegate and was able to maintain 211kpa or so up top. I planned to continue, but the larger turbo showed up before I was done playing with it.
#504
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I think I'm gonna tighten up the wastegate preload, crank the spring tension on the BOV up all the way, see if that makes any difference. I don't think I have any boost leaks, guess I could make up some stuff to test. I'm gonna go out west a bit and practice launching a bit, then I'll be able to go back next Friday to try again.
Going to refresh my det cans, too. I want to say Brian was running around 16 degrees WOT, and underdog or turbo tom with the sunburst was running 21-24 degrees with meth. I feel like I should still be trapping higher if I was over 200whp...
Going to refresh my det cans, too. I want to say Brian was running around 16 degrees WOT, and underdog or turbo tom with the sunburst was running 21-24 degrees with meth. I feel like I should still be trapping higher if I was over 200whp...
#506
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I added spring clamps to all my vacuum lines, and tightened my wastegate preload a bit more. Now without EBC I run around 11 psi, and with EBC I'm running 197kpa/14 psi. I still need to retune EBC better, but I'm able to peg 205kpa boost cut at less than 3200 rpm in 4th so I'm pretty happy. I think I was leaking a lot of boost after I cranked it up at the track last time, but I never popped any vac lines off. Will try again soon, because I'm pretty sure something was wrong last time.
Also drove all the way to Joplin to score a deal on a roll bar and door bars. M1 hard core, the non-hardtop one, and diyroadster door bars. I don't know what I was doing at first, but my car had two holes on the rear bars pre-drilled and plugged, and the other two were pretty easy to get from the bottom.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/169010-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-auqtjix.jpg?dateline=1461189840)
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/169011-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-p1rhaq3.jpg?dateline=1461189840)
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/169012-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-6oavzbc.jpg?dateline=1461189840)
Haven't done much driving yet, but it seems a hell of a lot toighter. Can't wait to take it to the bumpy and twisty roads...
Oh yeah, I've got some hard top side strikers if anyone wants to buy a pair. I won't be able to use them now.
Also drove all the way to Joplin to score a deal on a roll bar and door bars. M1 hard core, the non-hardtop one, and diyroadster door bars. I don't know what I was doing at first, but my car had two holes on the rear bars pre-drilled and plugged, and the other two were pretty easy to get from the bottom.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/169010-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-auqtjix.jpg?dateline=1461189840)
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/169011-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-p1rhaq3.jpg?dateline=1461189840)
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/169012-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-6oavzbc.jpg?dateline=1461189840)
Haven't done much driving yet, but it seems a hell of a lot toighter. Can't wait to take it to the bumpy and twisty roads...
Oh yeah, I've got some hard top side strikers if anyone wants to buy a pair. I won't be able to use them now.
#508
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I can't stand not having AC any longer, I'm going to reinstall it. I tossed everything, so I'm starting from nothing but an evap core...
The hard lines on the passenger's side are expensive new, easily damaged, and a bitch to ship. I think I've managed to piece together custom hoses to replace those lines, I should be able to hook stuff up around intercooler piping easier. All these parts are around $90 shipped, I think I can manage to get them crimped up for free too.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/173948-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-itpq02c.png?dateline=1465885744)
You can buy the driver's side hoses cheap on ebay for $40 cheap, research leads me to believe anything 90-2001 should fit fine there.
New A C Discharge Hose Line Ha 11270C GN3E614G0A Miata | eBay
A C Suction Line Hose Assembly UAC Ha 11217C Fits 99 00 Mazda Miata 1 8L L4 | eBay
I still need other parts, a condenser, dryer, the little dryer stub hardline, a compressor and bracket. I think I'm gonna try buying most of this stuff used. All in all, I think I'll be spending around $300 bucks. I have a vac pump and set of gauges to charge it myself.
It looks like somewhere around 2004-2005 ac compressors are different, smaller. The driver's side lines seem to have flange blocks on both ends now, I guess they bolt straight to the one piece condenser/dryer. Should I try and retrofit this newer stuff, is it a more efficient compressor? I can't find much info on this, but I won't stop looking...
The hard lines on the passenger's side are expensive new, easily damaged, and a bitch to ship. I think I've managed to piece together custom hoses to replace those lines, I should be able to hook stuff up around intercooler piping easier. All these parts are around $90 shipped, I think I can manage to get them crimped up for free too.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/173948-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-itpq02c.png?dateline=1465885744)
You can buy the driver's side hoses cheap on ebay for $40 cheap, research leads me to believe anything 90-2001 should fit fine there.
New A C Discharge Hose Line Ha 11270C GN3E614G0A Miata | eBay
A C Suction Line Hose Assembly UAC Ha 11217C Fits 99 00 Mazda Miata 1 8L L4 | eBay
I still need other parts, a condenser, dryer, the little dryer stub hardline, a compressor and bracket. I think I'm gonna try buying most of this stuff used. All in all, I think I'll be spending around $300 bucks. I have a vac pump and set of gauges to charge it myself.
It looks like somewhere around 2004-2005 ac compressors are different, smaller. The driver's side lines seem to have flange blocks on both ends now, I guess they bolt straight to the one piece condenser/dryer. Should I try and retrofit this newer stuff, is it a more efficient compressor? I can't find much info on this, but I won't stop looking...
#510
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Have been seriously debating putting mine back as well, I would be starting at the same place. I never cared until I installed the turbo, as I actually want to drive it now lol.
#511
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Stayed up way too late researching last night. I can't get it out of my head that the smaller, newer AC stuff is probably better.
Here's a 04-05 compressor...
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/174033-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-s-l1600.jpg?dateline=1465935441)
This is what I think all other NB compressors look like, and that looks identical to all the NA comps, at least for the ac lines...
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/174032-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-s-l1600.jpg?dateline=1465935411)
I think its 2004 that has an entirely different AC system? The hardlines to the evap are different, they don't use o-ring nuts any more I think, no idea what they do use though. There's also a manifold block near the passenger's headlight that holds a port for the high side and the low pressure switch. All this stuff is hokey, I don't think it's necessary. I can continue using the lines pictured above here, changing the o-ring end fittings for block adapters.
The condenser hooks up from the driver's side now, and the low side port is attached and sits right of the radiator now. The dryer is on the passengers side, and it looks like the thing is a dual pass unit now, halfway through the condenser, into the dryer, then back out the lower half of the condenser, across the front and over to the evap. I think just about everything about this setup will fit my car better, once I make more brackets for the condenser.
Does anyone know the size of these manifold block fittings, or have one around to measure for me?
Here's a 04-05 compressor...
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/174033-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-s-l1600.jpg?dateline=1465935441)
This is what I think all other NB compressors look like, and that looks identical to all the NA comps, at least for the ac lines...
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/174032-after-failed-abortion-deezums-sees-1-8-light-build-s-l1600.jpg?dateline=1465935411)
I think its 2004 that has an entirely different AC system? The hardlines to the evap are different, they don't use o-ring nuts any more I think, no idea what they do use though. There's also a manifold block near the passenger's headlight that holds a port for the high side and the low pressure switch. All this stuff is hokey, I don't think it's necessary. I can continue using the lines pictured above here, changing the o-ring end fittings for block adapters.
The condenser hooks up from the driver's side now, and the low side port is attached and sits right of the radiator now. The dryer is on the passengers side, and it looks like the thing is a dual pass unit now, halfway through the condenser, into the dryer, then back out the lower half of the condenser, across the front and over to the evap. I think just about everything about this setup will fit my car better, once I make more brackets for the condenser.
Does anyone know the size of these manifold block fittings, or have one around to measure for me?
#513
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Cool, thanks man.
Here are some really good pictures of the "94-97" miata AC system I'd like to retrofit.
'94 - '97 Miata AC Complete Kit
Here are some really good pictures of the "94-97" miata AC system I'd like to retrofit.
'94 - '97 Miata AC Complete Kit
#518
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Right on, it turns out I'm missing this guy here if you happen to have one lying around.
Miatamecca A C Aluminum Drier Line 94 97 Mazda Miata MX5 | eBay
My drill bits are here too, I should have your bushings done tonight.
Miatamecca A C Aluminum Drier Line 94 97 Mazda Miata MX5 | eBay
My drill bits are here too, I should have your bushings done tonight.
#519
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Right on, it turns out I'm missing this guy here if you happen to have one lying around.
Miatamecca A C Aluminum Drier Line 94 97 Mazda Miata MX5 | eBay
My drill bits are here too, I should have your bushings done tonight.
Miatamecca A C Aluminum Drier Line 94 97 Mazda Miata MX5 | eBay
My drill bits are here too, I should have your bushings done tonight.