Not only did they block me from buying from them, but my negative feedback saying what's up was removed. If I try, it says the seller doesn't allow buyers that don't meet requirements. I never got a notice or alert my negative feedback was removed, it's just gone.

The intercooler was returned to the seller, but I still hadn't got a refund in over a week. I had to call ebay to ask where my money was, and I asked about the negative feedback. Since I said "I don't think it's fair I have to pay to send something so grossly different than described back. If I have to pay to return this, I am leaving negative feedback." Ebay says I extorted the seller and can't leave feedback. What the **** ever. It cost me $18 bucks to send that heavy thing back, that's 30% of the purchase price, gone.

Ebay is about the shadiest place around. I've got some prepaid debit cards with a few bucks on them, I'm gonna buy a cheap set of LED lights off him on a shill account just to leave another negative

 

I had something similar happen to me over a radiator for our Cherokee through Speed_Daddy.

Shady *****.

 

Have you ever used the alumiweld before? Just curious because I may look to try the same method...

 

No, I haven't. It looks like it may be pretty decent for cast aluminum, but I'm afraid the thin IC piping might be hard to braze without melting it. I'll post my results later, I ordered steel bends too, just in case.

I'd like to find a pipe end shaper, so I could flare and shrink the aluminum to slip fit 1/4" or so. I imagine that would make things much easier, but they're pretty expensive for a hunk of iron, and I'm cheap!

 

Sub'd. In for ebay cast mani build. I have a 91 with paint in similar (baller) condition.

 

I bought a second intercooler from another e-bay vendor formulamotoring, and it's the same useless garbage. FWIW, I don't think the good cheap eaby intercoolers exist anymore, they all obviously come from the same place. Useless ebay ****** actually expect you to believe it's a "better quality" product, so much better quality they have to use pictures of other intercoolers in their listings.

So, does anyone have a cheap used intercooler

Meybe try and find a smaller churbo wastegate, then run no IC? I can be happy with less for a while... From reading, I'm guessing 10PSI from the 8 psi the ebay listing states. Seems too much to try for with no IC.

 

Going through your thread:

No reason not to use EGO with CL idle.

I assume MS 3? If so, you can go decimals in VE table, so no need to fake the Req_Fuel to get resolution. If lowest cells have, say, 50, you can go to 50.1, which is a 0.2% change. Very tiny. If an older MS version, then I understand the desire.

Bummer on IC.

 

I have used Alumiweld and other silver solder brazing/solder rods for small diameter tubing (AC lines) and small brackets. I suspect large diameter tubing will be a real challenge when it comes to heating the material to a stable working temp around the full perimeter so you can flow the rod in. It may require two people, and two torches to stay on top of it.

 

I've still got EGO going down to 700rpm or so, on MS2 though, so no decimals. I'm still loving it, found a smaller dyno shop that I may bring the car to later. Great guy, hung out and chatted for quite a while.

The second shitty tube/fin ebay intercooler is going back today, think I'll try my luck with an amazon 28x5.5x2.5 bar/plate next as it's not that much more expensive. Amazon's better than ebay, by far...


I was somewhat afraid of that as well, that thin aluminum is going to spread the heat fast, I don't think "spotting" it will work well with brazing. I have a old stove for powdercoating at the shop, I may try and preheat the pieces a bit to see if that helps. Doesn't really make much sense to braze it if I kill a few bottles in the process though, stuffs expensive.

I never would have thought of hitting AC lines though, lots more pressure there. I had a feeling it would be almost indestructible done right.. That will come in handy on a 5.3 s10 swap I've got going. Thanks!

 

[QUOTE=deezums;1169631
The second shitty tube/fin ebay intercooler is going back today, think I'll try my luck with an amazon 28x5.5x2.5 bar/plate next as it's not that much more expensive. Amazon's better than ebay, by far...
[/QUOTE]

You might look at this to see if it is built correctly. I found the 28" one to be just a little long, and had to let it ride lower than I would have preferred (had to cut the support some). This one would appear to fit a bit better, but no pics of the guts.

Godspeed FMIC_24x6x2.5

DNM

 

Thanks for the tip, I see you had the 27" bar/plate from your thread. Wonder how I was ever gonna get the 28" tube/fin up in there, lol

I'll keep looking a bit, still waiting on a refund for the last intercooler anyway.

 

Finally wired up the sequential injection. Can tell a difference for sure, seems so much smoother everywhere and I can idle 14.7 now





Super duper easy, hardest part was fishing the stupid wires through the wall. I'm dumb and didn't think ahead enough to run a EBC wire, either. Oh well, I hope to pull the entire dash and fix all the hacked out wiring real good, someday...

 

Installed the noisy yellow RX8 injectors last night, strangest thing, but I guess the lil 1.6 can siphon a powerless fuel pump. It certainly was not running, or priming on sound alone, and it had to have zero rail pressure since it was just disconnected and all, but it still eventually turned over

Pretty sure I botched the fuel pump install. I wasn't too happy with the hose to fit on the metal feed line, guess I'll be going back after it again. I don't know though, because it wouldn't start on the stock injectors with the FP relay pulled, but it still shat all sorts of fuel all over the IM. Thinking back, I never pulled the gas cap and probably still had a pressurized tank...

Miatas should hold rail pressure for a while once the pumps off, right? I haven't measured, but I don't think I do. If it runs with no power to the pump, I wonder if you'd even notice a huuuge leak in the feed line?

Noobin' around, but still runs like a champ though. I refuse to quit dailying the miata

 

Glad the sequential was a snap. Looking to go that way myself while everything is apart.

 

Got to messing with the sequential again, fine tuning injector timing. I was able to dial cranking fuel back a lot, stock diypnp basemap prime pulse, and it fires faster than it ever has! Friggen' cold as hell here too, like 50's. 2-3 seconds of cranking compared to 3-5 or more

Completely turned time based accel enrich off as well, but with my general <75% throttle use I can't hardly tell. Ordered a serial to CAN wideband module from Rev, as well as the OBD2 gauge stuff because I still can't get ShadowDash to work worth a damn. Plan is to use super duper steady wideband to really knock out eae and other enrichments.

My new intercooler showed as well, and I am finally satisfied

Turbolators! And they are actually staggered?? more than 5 in total per bar?!?1one So awesome, it swallows light. I paid $61 bucks, or less than both shitty tube/fin ripoffs. I have no undertray (like a rebel ) and it seems it will fit the NA pretty easy.





Just in case anyone else cares, this is the cheap 27x5.5x2.5. The black ones don't show pictures of the guts, so I said **** it, I'll paint it black.



And my "turbo kit" so far, about $1700 spent, minus Rev's bit of awesome that's on the way. All I (think) I need yet is some couplers for the IC piping, some little bits of tube for IAC valve, WG port... a clutch... The stuff that lets you reinstall the rods, after they try and escape? JB weld? Not pictured is MS, injectors, and other crap already in the car, but it's in that price.



I'm half tempted to drag it to the corner of the shop and get after it, still think I ought to be just a tad bit more paitent while I fully figure out tuning the crap that makes it run nice. Plus, my fuel pump is still sketchy, even though it fires so well, it only does so when I wait to hear the pump quit priming. Need to quit being lazy and just measure it.

 

Please include link to inter cooler source.

 

Here you go, I bid the starting price and got it. Seems he runs lots of 2 day auctions

27x5 5x2 5" Aluminum Bar Plate Fmic Front Mount Turbo Charger Engine Intercooler | eBay

Far as I can tell, it would probably fit with the stock power steering cooler, dryer, and condenser, without messing with much of anything. I'm just eyeballing stuff so far though...

 

So, I guess I need a new thermostat. I added some homebrew "aero" and my heater came back. This is good, since it's wanting to be all cold out.



So, I bought a "superduty" 195 tstat from the parts store. I'm too cheap and broke at the moment to do a coolant reroute, plus it's just a 1.6, and it's still in the car...

Am I crazy thinking of skipping a reroute for a slow, street driven turbo miata? I don't think so, sure hope not...

 

we must be the only 2 on earth simultaneously turboing their 1.6 miatas and v8 swapping their s10s.

 

Great minds think alike? Doh'

Hehe, I thought I recognized that screenname! Mine is G5, or 2007 pontiac G5? There's a long - non update on that project. Though, I do have a whole setup of C5 brakes I'm gonna need fit since I don't do the machine shop thing any more. You still doing those brake hub conversions and brackets??

I still plan to finish my S10 some day, but those days go further and further back the more I drive the miata!

And in other naaws, the loving PO of my miata gracefully removed the entire ******* thermostat. The PO was also a rebel, just removing parts like a boss. I'm now super ******* nervous. God damn you, mister PO.

The rebel in me wonders where my undertray got off too, and if I'm about to have a bad time in 50-60 degree weather for just a liiiiiitle while, till I fab something up. In all my travels, it never overheated, which makes goddamn perfect sense with no tstat. It also warmed up perfectly fine when it was hot outside, and seemed to stay at 195f or so. Not that I could hear the rad fan on the highway... I wasn't smart enough to look...