97 Rotrex HPDE Build
#121
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I forgot to mention- this Ford Motorcraft transmission fluid is a miracle worker. Seriously my transmission has never shifted better, and with the Amsoil in it I was shopping for a new transmission. I cannot believe the difference that it makes. Buy some.
#126
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Been working slowly on the car again.
In an effort to eliminate reliability issues related to belts and pulleys, I bought a ceramic bearing ($90!) for my idler pulley and upgraded the tensioner pulley to steel (which I faced flat on the lathe). This way if either bearing seizes the belt can't melt any of my pulleys. The mcmaster carr bearing I ran at the last track day had developed some play and puked all the grease out- looking at the operating temperature and RPM I'm not surprised. The ceramic bearing should be good up to about 450 f and are rated to higher RPMs.
Xida's are in along with new Hawk DTC60 pads. My Carbotech pads (XP12) worked fine and lasted 4 track days, but the Hawks were literally 1/2 the price so I figured I'd give them a shot.
Only things left to do is get tires put on my new wheels, dial in ride-height and maybe play with my engine tune a little.
Also I've been doing some Rotrex mathing, and looking around for different pulley sizes. Currently I have stock crank pulley and an 80mm Rotrex pulley giving me 111,033 Rotrex RPM at redline. TDR makes a 150mm crank pulley overlay thing that would spin the Rotrex to 128,115 RPM at redline (6.76% over recommended max RPM), or I could combine that with my 88mm pulley for 116,465 Rotrex RPMs. I probably won't do anything since I'd have to spend a bunch of money and time and would end up making like 3 more hp.
In an effort to eliminate reliability issues related to belts and pulleys, I bought a ceramic bearing ($90!) for my idler pulley and upgraded the tensioner pulley to steel (which I faced flat on the lathe). This way if either bearing seizes the belt can't melt any of my pulleys. The mcmaster carr bearing I ran at the last track day had developed some play and puked all the grease out- looking at the operating temperature and RPM I'm not surprised. The ceramic bearing should be good up to about 450 f and are rated to higher RPMs.
Xida's are in along with new Hawk DTC60 pads. My Carbotech pads (XP12) worked fine and lasted 4 track days, but the Hawks were literally 1/2 the price so I figured I'd give them a shot.
Only things left to do is get tires put on my new wheels, dial in ride-height and maybe play with my engine tune a little.
Also I've been doing some Rotrex mathing, and looking around for different pulley sizes. Currently I have stock crank pulley and an 80mm Rotrex pulley giving me 111,033 Rotrex RPM at redline. TDR makes a 150mm crank pulley overlay thing that would spin the Rotrex to 128,115 RPM at redline (6.76% over recommended max RPM), or I could combine that with my 88mm pulley for 116,465 Rotrex RPMs. I probably won't do anything since I'd have to spend a bunch of money and time and would end up making like 3 more hp.
Last edited by dcamp2; 04-29-2015 at 02:58 PM.
#129
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If by TDR you mean Track Dog Racing for the pulley overlay, I'd avoid it. Early on there were some catastrophic failures that were attributed to people running the overlay. Alignment issue IIRC. I don't know if the product has been redesigned to address that, but its something to keep in mind none the less.
You might check out Underdog Racing Development for pulleys. I believe there are a couple guys on m.net running these without issue, you just have to make sure you are using the correct 4 grooves on the 8 groove pulley. Please don't take my word for it though, it IS m.net afterall. Mobius may also have a source as I believe he was running a smaller one as well, but I can't remember where he got it.
I'm interested to see how the ceramic holds up!
You might check out Underdog Racing Development for pulleys. I believe there are a couple guys on m.net running these without issue, you just have to make sure you are using the correct 4 grooves on the 8 groove pulley. Please don't take my word for it though, it IS m.net afterall. Mobius may also have a source as I believe he was running a smaller one as well, but I can't remember where he got it.
I'm interested to see how the ceramic holds up!
#131
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If by TDR you mean Track Dog Racing for the pulley overlay, I'd avoid it. Early on there were some catastrophic failures that were attributed to people running the overlay. Alignment issue IIRC. I don't know if the product has been redesigned to address that, but its something to keep in mind none the less.
You might check out Underdog Racing Development for pulleys. I believe there are a couple guys on m.net running these without issue, you just have to make sure you are using the correct 4 grooves on the 8 groove pulley. Please don't take my word for it though, it IS m.net afterall. Mobius may also have a source as I believe he was running a smaller one as well, but I can't remember where he got it.
I'm interested to see how the ceramic holds up!
You might check out Underdog Racing Development for pulleys. I believe there are a couple guys on m.net running these without issue, you just have to make sure you are using the correct 4 grooves on the 8 groove pulley. Please don't take my word for it though, it IS m.net afterall. Mobius may also have a source as I believe he was running a smaller one as well, but I can't remember where he got it.
I'm interested to see how the ceramic holds up!
Ok- makes sense, I don't get a great impression from TDR products based on their website and reviews and such... Besides I'm already sick of playing with belts and **** on this car- I'll just leave it alone.
The ceramic better f**king hold up! $90 for one little bearing! it makes me sick!
#133
Been working slowly on the car again.
In an effort to eliminate reliability issues related to belts and pulleys, I bought a ceramic bearing ($90!) for my idler pulley and upgraded the tensioner pulley to steel (which I faced flat on the lathe). This way if either bearing seizes the belt can't melt any of my pulleys. The mcmaster carr bearing I ran at the last track day had developed some play and puked all the grease out- looking at the operating temperature and RPM I'm not surprised. The ceramic bearing should be good up to about 450 f and are rated to higher RPMs.
Xida's are in along with new Hawk DTC60 pads. My Carbotech pads (XP12) worked fine and lasted 4 track days, but the Hawks were literally 1/2 the price so I figured I'd give them a shot.
Only things left to do is get tires put on my new wheels, dial in ride-height and maybe play with my engine tune a little.
Also I've been doing some Rotrex mathing, and looking around for different pulley sizes. Currently I have stock crank pulley and an 80mm Rotrex pulley giving me 111,033 Rotrex RPM at redline. TDR makes a 150mm crank pulley overlay thing that would spin the Rotrex to 128,115 RPM at redline (6.76% over recommended max RPM), or I could combine that with my 88mm pulley for 116,465 Rotrex RPMs. I probably won't do anything since I'd have to spend a bunch of money and time and would end up making like 3 more hp.
In an effort to eliminate reliability issues related to belts and pulleys, I bought a ceramic bearing ($90!) for my idler pulley and upgraded the tensioner pulley to steel (which I faced flat on the lathe). This way if either bearing seizes the belt can't melt any of my pulleys. The mcmaster carr bearing I ran at the last track day had developed some play and puked all the grease out- looking at the operating temperature and RPM I'm not surprised. The ceramic bearing should be good up to about 450 f and are rated to higher RPMs.
Xida's are in along with new Hawk DTC60 pads. My Carbotech pads (XP12) worked fine and lasted 4 track days, but the Hawks were literally 1/2 the price so I figured I'd give them a shot.
Only things left to do is get tires put on my new wheels, dial in ride-height and maybe play with my engine tune a little.
Also I've been doing some Rotrex mathing, and looking around for different pulley sizes. Currently I have stock crank pulley and an 80mm Rotrex pulley giving me 111,033 Rotrex RPM at redline. TDR makes a 150mm crank pulley overlay thing that would spin the Rotrex to 128,115 RPM at redline (6.76% over recommended max RPM), or I could combine that with my 88mm pulley for 116,465 Rotrex RPMs. I probably won't do anything since I'd have to spend a bunch of money and time and would end up making like 3 more hp.
#135
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The 75mm pulley will give you, about, an additional 2 psi, and with your stock crank pulley will put the Rotrex at 118,435 when you are at the car's 7,200 redline. Probably more than 3 HP nephew! I'd guess 10-12 HP. A smaller diameter pulley may just need a shorter belt. When I went from 85 to 80 I just tightened up the adjuster. 75 may be different
Would I need special tools or have to send it in to get the nose pulley swapped? I'd definitely need a new belt- mine has almost no room left for adjustment.
#136
My nose pulley looks like the ones that URD shows on their website. There is one large hole in the middle for the bolt that holds it on, and (4) smaller holes all the way around. I made as pin wrench that catches two of the holes to hold it from moving and just unscrew the bolt. It was really easy (once I made the wrench)
I'm pretty sure Kraftworks still sells the 75mm pulley with the 6 allens.
I'm pretty sure Kraftworks still sells the 75mm pulley with the 6 allens.
Last edited by tomiboy; 04-30-2015 at 01:16 PM.
#138
I'm pretty sure if I put some effort in I could clean them up, the rust wants to cake on pretty fast. My wheels are also pretty old so the finish is already worn down a bit. Next set of wheels will get a nice coat of wax before I do anything with them to keep the finish in better condition.
#139
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Why did my fuel line fall off?
The 99' fuel rail I'm using does not have the little bump at the end of the hard pipe to help clamp the hose on, and after a month of use I guess it blew the line off. The fuel hose felt slimy- like the gas was eating away at it, but it says right on the hose 'gates fuel injection hose'.
What kind of hose/attachment method does a stock 99' miata use?
This (sorry the pic is hard to see, but it was late and I'd just jogged a few miles home to get my truck and tools):
I'm thinking I can split the fuel hose lengthwise a few inches, push the split portion up and over the stop and clamp it above the stop to keep it from falling off, and clamp below on the non split portion to keep the gas in... Thoughts?
Edit: Derp- guess I'm not the only one: http://blog.choppedoctopus.com/2012/...94-engine.html
Looks like I need some kind of snap on fitting.
The 99' fuel rail I'm using does not have the little bump at the end of the hard pipe to help clamp the hose on, and after a month of use I guess it blew the line off. The fuel hose felt slimy- like the gas was eating away at it, but it says right on the hose 'gates fuel injection hose'.
What kind of hose/attachment method does a stock 99' miata use?
This (sorry the pic is hard to see, but it was late and I'd just jogged a few miles home to get my truck and tools):
I'm thinking I can split the fuel hose lengthwise a few inches, push the split portion up and over the stop and clamp it above the stop to keep it from falling off, and clamp below on the non split portion to keep the gas in... Thoughts?
Edit: Derp- guess I'm not the only one: http://blog.choppedoctopus.com/2012/...94-engine.html
Looks like I need some kind of snap on fitting.
Last edited by dcamp2; 05-08-2015 at 03:40 PM.