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Funny you should say that, I was Datsun shopping in Baltimore, found some candidates, but it would be a chassis up build. I have yet to find a spot with a garage
Mmm. I'm thinking they're going to be one of the next cars on the upswing. It's still very much just a dream/idea, but if I do end up doing it, I'll probably visit Mike down in Charlotte and find a nice southern beauty to drive back home.
Hah, funny it's him. I'm on the mass subaru fb group and he's a regular poster there. Seems like a stand up guy!
Let me know if you're game for having me come for a ride along in your car when it's running again. I want to work on mine, but figure it's a good idea to sit in a few and see how they drive, even if it's from the vantage of a passenger!
Hah, funny it's him. I'm on the mass subaru fb group and he's a regular poster there. Seems like a stand up guy!
Let me know if you're game for having me come for a ride along in your car when it's running again. I want to work on mine, but figure it's a good idea to sit in a few and see how they drive, even if it's from the vantage of a passenger!
Good news, I have a diagnosis. Bad news, its the MegaSquirt. Matt came over to help me do some troubleshooting. Turns out that Tuner Studio is showing both the Engine MAP sensor and the Boost sensor as reading full negative. With the car just keyed on to ACC, the boost gauge should be reading 0, and the MAP gauge reading ~100. Our initial diagnosis is a failed MAP sensor on the MS. I've sent an email over to DIY to see if they can help me out. Hoping it goes smoother than last time.
The boost sensor is the map sensor, same thing. Just order you one up and solder it on, they won't be able to help unless you ship the ecm back to them.
The boost sensor is the map sensor, same thing. Just order you one up and solder it on, they won't be able to help unless you ship the ecm back to them.
Yeah, this isn't my first time with MS issues. I want to hear back from DIY to see if I have a warranty before I crack it open. But doing it myself is something I was considering. I've also heard that people run external map sensors. I need to do some research. I haven't soldered something so small before but I'm confident I could learn.
Lucky for you the MAP sensor is the biggest device on the board, I could solder it with one of those big solder guns that dim the lights when you plug it in...... Pick you up an 8$ pencil iron and it'll be easy.
You did check to make sure the vacuum line didn't pull off or kink?
Lucky for you the MAP sensor is the biggest device on the board, I could solder it with one of those big solder guns that dim the lights when you plug it in...... Pick you up an 8$ pencil iron and it'll be easy.
You did check to make sure the vacuum line didn't pull off or kink?
Do you know of any good install instructions?
Yeah, even if the line kinked the gauges would still be reading correctly with the car keyed to ACC. Boost is reading full vacuum. It should be reading 0.
I'm sure DIY will run me through a couple troubleshooting steps before sending it in. I found another thread on here of someone who had the same exact issue. They had him try things like firmware updates, but in the end he sent it in to be replaced.
Did some diags, and the internal MAP sensor is indeed dead. Waiting to hear back if I'm covered under warranty. If not, I have a external sensor lined up, so all I'll have to do is wire it in, and then hopefully I'll be good to go!
Awesome build. I've seen this car at ADSI I think last year. I just picked up a turbo kit with the same turbo as you so hopefully all goes well and it'll be at ADSI next summer
The MS was out of warranty, so I got an external AEM 3.5 bar sensor and switched over to using an external sensor. The install was pretty straight forward. Just had to switch the MAP jumper on the board and wire in the new sensor to the options port. The weather is near freezing here and the snow tires are going on the speed today, so not sure how much driving time the Miata will see. But I am pumped it's working!!
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
Fingers crossed buddy. I read through your entire thread last night and it looks like the megasquirt hasn't been all that nice to you.
The MS has been quite a bitch.
Originally Posted by jiffsta
Awesome build. I've seen this car at ADSI I think last year. I just picked up a turbo kit with the same turbo as you so hopefully all goes well and it'll be at ADSI next summer
I wasn't there last year, but I was for the few years before. Are you local?
Took the car out for some driving yesterday. It may be placebo, but I swear everything is running smoother. I know for sure one thing was fixed. I used to have an issue on warm starts, where the car would kick over, and then run lean and die out if I didn't give it some throttle for 20 seconds or so. Matt fixed this by adding some fuel on warm starts, but the issue slowly came back. More recently, I was also having some issues with rough idle. On Saturday I noticed that warm starts are no longer and issue, but the car is idling SUPER rich. 11.5! It's safe to say I smelled a bit like fuel afterwards. Now that the issue itself seems to be fixed, warm starts/idle can be tuned back to normal.
MS and AEM MAP sensor mounted up for now. The serial connector that I had from DIY was for a previous version, so I had to get a new 26 pin connector off Amazon. My fingers were numb by the end of this, so I'll probably revisit the wiring in the Spring. Don't mind the filth.
Finally some time out in the wild.
Oh and of course now my driver's side window is stuck half way down Hoping the motor was just frozen.
Curious if there's a spec to how large in diameter the reference line can be to the MAP sensor. I know on BOV, the volume of air moving matters, thus a fatter line would be more responsive. But for a pressure transducer, does a narrow/long line dampen or delay the response? /postulating