Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1067464)
If it is bad I have the trunk latch/trunk lid/bumper from this one that are in perfect condition...well albeit some scratches.
but the fact of the matter is, that is a $600 hardtop with a $300 miata attached. Go look at it nao. |
Waiting on a reply from the seller. No number was given with the ad so it is a waiting game of emails. I left my phone number just in case. 10 hours away but if I fix the cooling issue and the battery ground it should drive home ok.
Pretty sure it would just need new coolant for an issue like that correct? |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1067527)
Waiting on a reply from the seller. No number was given with the ad so it is a waiting game of emails. I left my phone number just in case. 10 hours away but if I fix the cooling issue and the battery ground it should drive home ok.
Pretty sure it would just need new coolant for an issue like that correct? Honestly though, you could probably fix it and drive it home. Just really depends on what exactly is wrong, the condition of the car, etc. That's a long way, so make sure you get a ton of detailed pics of the shell so that you don't get there and find a POS. |
"The cooling system needs work. It was in working order only two days ago, but just yesterday had a problem and steam came out from behind the engine. Note it was steam, not smoke. It has not been run since, so the engine will not have been affected."
I'm guessing the coolant pipe popped off the engine block. So probably just need to replace the rear temperature sensor and put a new hose/clamp on the block. The battery ground corrosion is an easy fix. |
IDK what you would have to pay to get it shipped to you, but like Fireindc said, it's a $600 hardtop on a $300 Miata. And even if the engine is overheated and warped to shit, you can get $150 for the 5-speed and $150 for the (presumably open) 1.8 diff. So that's your $900 before you even start a serious part out.
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If the seller does contact me I got a quote for around $4-500, which is about what gas/ticket/parts would cost. So I think especially for peace of mind(and I have no time) I'll just ship it to my house and commence the stripping.
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1067541)
"The cooling system needs work. It was in working order only two days ago, but just yesterday had a problem and steam came out from behind the engine. Note it was steam, not smoke. It has not been run since, so the engine will not have been affected."
I'm guessing the coolant pipe popped off the engine block. So probably just need to replace the rear temperature sensor and put a new hose/clamp on the block. The battery ground corrosion is an easy fix. |
6 Attachment(s)
I felt it was pretty close to sacrilege to put filthy parts on a new shell so I broke out the power washer and purple power and went to town. Couple rust spots I need to put some POR15 on to kill it before it gets worse.
Turned out better than I thought it would. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383019545 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383019545 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383019545 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383019545 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383019545 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383019545 |
Originally Posted by Slider
(Post 1067698)
Rear heater hose going out is pretty common, the CAS o-ring leaks oil onto the hose, and that's the one that usually leaks first. Happened to me right after I got mine.
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I'm guessing if I get the Inconol manifold stud kit from TSE I'll have to drill the holes wider for the M10 bolts to work with the ARTech manifold correct?
If so I'm going to wait to send the manifold and turbo to the machine shop to get them milled flat until I get the stud kit from them. Or can I just tell them the bolt size and hope for the best... |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1067968)
I'm guessing if I get the Inconol manifold stud kit from TSE I'll have to drill the holes wider for the M10 bolts to work with the ARTech manifold correct?
If so I'm going to wait to send the manifold and turbo to the machine shop to get them milled flat until I get the stud kit from them. Or can I just tell them the bolt size and hope for the best... |
I could strip the goodies off mine and sell it for ~$2K with HT...
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I'm hoping it wasn't one of those craigslist ads that the person forgets about. Still no response.
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4 Attachment(s)
Just inspecting the turbo before I decide to do work on it.
oil feed looks a little gummed up https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383085467 Small amount of oil on the face https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383085467 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383085467 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383085467 |
I put those receipts in the mail yesterday.
I must say, it's a bit nerve racking to have every inch of your build inspected by the world. I hope no one is thinking "Holy sh*t, who did you buy that from?" Lol What's that little hole near the oil feed next to the x 3/4? No doubt, your build is going to be badass! |
Originally Posted by djp0623
(Post 1068075)
I put those receipts in the mail yesterday.
I must say, it's a bit nerve racking to have every inch of your build inspected by the world. I hope no one is thinking "Holy sh*t, who did you buy that from?" Lol What's that little hole near the oil feed next to the x 3/4? No doubt, your build is going to be badass! The hole is just the bolt hole for the oil drain bung connection. There was a lot of build up on the banjo bolt and banjo housing for the oil feed line. Cleaned it up with a pipe brush. Think I may pull the compressor wheel off and inspect the inside to see if there is a build up in the turbo as well. |
wow. this thread was a roller coaster.
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Originally Posted by djp0623
(Post 1068075)
I must say, it's a bit nerve racking to have every inch of your build inspected by the world. I hope no one is thinking "Holy sh*t, who did you buy that from?" Lol
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2 Attachment(s)
Sent the turbo and the downpipe to the machine shop today.
Plan of attack is this: -Mill flanges flat -mill exhaust manifold flat -Drill out exhaust manifold turbo flange to M10x1.5 to accept TSE Inconel studs -chase threads on the rest of the bolt holes to clean out oxidation -drill out broken bolt. Question on the turbo though. On the bottom of the ring covering the bearings where you see the grit. It sounds like there is quite a bit of sand or dirt in it when I spin the spacer. Should I get the Garret repair kit to disassemble and clean it to ensure there is nothing nasty in it? Is this something I myself am capable of doing or should I send the turbo to a shop to rebuild it? Or am I just being too nervous? Just want to make sure I don't have to worry about this stuff in 6 months or so. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383171913 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383171913 |
Also a question to those who are much smarter than me. Why is there a 1.5" block on the downpipe separating the wastegate dump from the turbine? Better flow for the down-pipe? It is a divorced downpipe so that is what makes sense in my head but seeing as the flow convergence shouldn't affect it that much I still can't see why the extra effort is needed to separate the two.
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