I just want to throw it out there that it wasn't me that got crazy on that bolt. lol

I found receipts for the machine shop labor, engine, head etc, and the RE-11s I bought at costco. Shoot me your address again and I'll put them in the mail to you. I'm sorry I don't have more receipts.

I don't have the specs for that hose. It was some place online that will build them to your specs.

This has taught me that i need to keep my receipts for my builds.

 

I know, I'm glad my Impact wrench didn't break it when I removed it!

Small update.

Pulled the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate off and mounted it to the engine stand. I may end up pulling the front and rear subframes tonight, we'll see. Been a long weekend; I want to relax but I know it needs to be done.













Driveshaft condition, looks normal thank goodness.


While the transmission is out I'm going to replace the throwout bearing since it's starting to wear out. Also replace the slave cylinder and the gaskets around the transmission. I found oil weeping out in a couple spots, not bad, but a little.

Also taking the turbo/manifold/downpipe to a machine shop sometime this week to get them machined level and replace all hardware with inconol from Trackspeed.

Replace some gaskets on the engine, replace the water pump, add a damper to the engine and change the timing belt as well.

Might as well do a full refresh while it is out.

 

Now you can put that street disk in if you want.

 

Considering it, but now that I have gotten used to the clutch it isn't an issue. Finally found the "feathering" point.

Do any of those Poly bushings you have in the "box-of-many-things" need to be installed? I remember you mentioning you hadn't put them in the diff mounts?

*edit* also I found out why I was having idle issues. The pipe going to the intake manifold had a puncture in it, not sure if that caused it but it might be a reason as to why it was struggling.

 

I put poly in the diff mounts. Ball joints I think may have needed them. I think the rear sway was needed one. I think I had one poly and one rubber on hand.

I like the 6-puck, but if I were going to dd it I would probably go to the street disk.

 

Subframes/exhaust/PPF/brake fluid drained/rear trunk lid(undamaged)/rear bumper(undamaged)/tail lights all are off the car. Thank god no one uses this house during this time of the year...the parts have taken over!


So all I speculatively have left is wiring, the dashboard, and the front headlights and this shell is gone!

I hope...













I want to thank you guys for the help(again), google, Haynes manual, and lots of trial and error.

Time to collapse...

 

Also, it isn't fair how easy it is to remove the suspension on these cars. ******* germans and their over-engineering of VW's.

 

You are a machine! Well, you have certainly been able to inspect all of the work that was done to the car.

Damn, I go back and look through the pictures and still can't believe it it even though I'm seeing it.

 

Good work. Find a clean straight shell, don't settle.

 

This exactly! You have baller parts, now you need a baller shell.

I'd be looking for something lower mileage, no body-damage, good paint and interior, etc.

 

The 90-91 cars often show up with a busted short nose crank in a decent shell. A few years back I could have gotten one for about $1500. The whole car was mint except for the short nose issue.

 

Yeah after all this work and the future work of removing the donor car parts and then replacing them with these parts is making me want to find a very clean shell so that I don't have to do any paint/rust/dent repair to that car.

Once the wind outside stops going plaid I'm going to drag the parts that are a little nasty and power wash them...thank god I have a 3700 PSI pressure washer!

This is sort of how I feel at the moment, I truly wish I was a machine, then I could keep going and going...

 

and then a beater shows up on craigslist with a hard top for 900...and then the mind remembers that he has a friend in Northern Utah that owns a Maaco and actually does a good job with paint.

 

Link? With hardtop it could be worth it, depending on how much of a "beater" it is. Cars that need paint never really bothered me, ones that are wavy down the side of them due to door dings and poor care drive me nuts. My miata for instance needs paint (badly), but the body is amazing. really not much bodywork needs to be done before I paint it. My integra on the otherhand is probably past the point of no return. It has no "major" body damage, but 100's of dings and imperfections which would drive me nuts if i were trying to build a "clean" car. That teg is PERFECT for what I use it for though.

 

Fixer-upper 1994 Mazda Miata. Runs, but needs work. Looking to sell!

It really isn't that bad now that I look at it.

 

Worth looking into, IMO. It's 10x better than the other heaps for sale you've found. I'm concerned about that trunk to rear 1/4 gap, looks not right to me.

otherwise hard to tell how good or bad the car is without seeing it in person.

 

If it is bad I have the trunk latch/trunk lid/bumper from this one that are in perfect condition...well albeit some scratches.

 

When you see a Miata with a hardtop for under $1k, you buy it first and worry about what to do with it later.

 

Good point...talking to him now. If he responds or hasn't sold it that is!

 

Yes, this. Go buy it now assuming the hardtop doesn't have a hole in it or something like that.