|
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1099877)
Holy shit those analog AEM gauges are expensive, what do they do fill it with gold???
^Cheap, easy to read, oem-style and bulletproof. Can't recommend enough ;) |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1099877)
Holy shit those analog AEM gauges are expensive, what do they do fill it with gold???
They are also color adjustable meaning I can color match my interior lighting, thus satisfying my OCD. -Zach |
Thanks for clarifying the cost and making my OCD want them more!
I guess if I really wanted to satiate my OCD I'd just replace the boost gauge and then get a black face plate for the AFR gauge. As to mounting them? I'm not sure. Maybe mounting them both on the left edge and cutting the trim ring at an angle to have them face me more? Yet I still don't think it'd look too pretty. I like the idea of a tablet but know the inherent weakness it has especially with the Bluetooth manual connection you have to make with MS3 each time(source Soviet),, I just don't want to replace the 2 dashboard vents. I'm a skinny bastard with no body fat. When it gets cold...I like my heat. Revlimiter gave me a link to the Zoom Tombstone which has three 3 gauge holes above the vents but A) It is pricy B) I don't like the lines of it much. Saying that a thought dawned on me that when it gets cold enough I'll probably be driving the Jetta instead of the Miata....hmmm I'm talking I'm circles here aren't I... |
Or I could just live with it for now and actually get my car running! Yeah that would be the smarter move...
|
I love my Maxigauge, one of the best mods I've done to my car!
Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 1099793)
Actually the Maxigagues are better than analog for one reason. User-settable upper and lower limits for each parameter monitored. If it goes outside of those limits it sounds a very loud alarm that is easily heard on track. I never even look at them until it goes off and then see what is causing it. And before someone says "yeah but by then it is too late" you can set it wherever you want. Want it 20* below a self-imposed threshold? Set it. You can also change it anytime with the buttons on the front so different settings for track or DD is no problem.
|
1 Attachment(s)
Jeff, since you have torn into the wiper controls, I'd suggest you do not button it up before doing the "intermittent control" mod.
Takes about 5 minutes with the board exposed like that, and you will thank me later. I did that, and it IS one of the best mods you can do to a Miata. Here's the link for instructions: Miata Intermittent Wiper Control I used a rotary pot, like this one, and mounted it on the switch blank next to the cluster light dimmer: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391847606 |
Originally Posted by Godless Commie
(Post 1100196)
Jeff, since you have torn into the wiper controls, I'd suggest you do not button it up before doing the "intermittent control" mod.
Takes about 5 minutes with the board exposed like that, and you will thank me later. I did that, and it IS one of the best mods you can do to a Miata. Here's the link for instructions: Miata Intermittent Wiper Control I used a rotary pot, like this one, and mounted it on the switch blank next to the cluster light dimmer: |
3 Attachment(s)
Title: How to break an OCD persons spirit.
Give them a Miata Diff and tell them to clean it. I never...ever...ever want to do that again. It ain't perfect but...I simply just don't care anymore. I'm going to go buy some clear coat tomorrow and make sure I don't have to think about that again. Also, wear a carbon filter air-mask. Aluminum oxide is no bueno. Also, can you install zerk fittings for the diff bushings? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391863960 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391863960 Question though. Torque gave me a spare diff spacer he had, the problem though is that the replacement spacer only has one bolt hole, while the old one has 2. I don't foresee this as an issue but I thought I'd pass that along to you gurus. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391863960 |
You mean the two holes that bolt it onto the diff housing? Mine torsen only has one too. It's really only a spacer, so the two big holes in the middle are really all that's necessary, the 1-2 tabs on the side are really only to hold it on during installation.
Don't grease the diff bushings though, they're not pivoting bushings, and if they're aftermarket polyurethane bushings, they won't be moving much at all. |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1100214)
It ain't perfect but... it's still better than factory new.
|
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1100232)
.
Don't grease the diff bushings though, they're not pivoting bushings, and if they're aftermarket polyurethane bushings, they won't be moving much at all. Rleete...prove it! /maniacally laughing. |
3 Attachment(s)
|
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1100250)
Rleete...prove it! /maniacally laughing.
BTW, I am often the same way. Start some simple task, and end up spending way too much time and effort cleaning parts, tweaking things, etc. It's gotten so I don't start projects, because I make so much work out of everything. I am a hobby machinist. I make "steam" engines (run on air) but tend to not get them ever to the finished stage, because I insist on polishing/painting the parts to perfection. Which is silly, because my machining skills aren't all that great, and I should concentrate more on making more complicated parts, and less on making things pretty. Anyway, I really admire the attention to detail and sheer magnitude of the project you have undertaken. You're going to have one fine car at the end. |
Ah so the truth comes out! I think to be a machinist you have to be on a different level of ocd. I don't have the patience for that. Sounds awesome though, I'd love to have that skill.
I keep thinking that if I didn't get distracted by some inane detail of the car I'd be done by now. It doesn't other me too much though since this is a "project car" and not my daily driver. I think that is the reason I have gone so far with it, it has no rush to be done so I can really dig into the nitty gritty of it. |
You'll be done soon enough, stuff starts to fly together once your parts pile of cleaned and painted bits starts growing big enough.
|
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1100288)
You'll be done soon enough, stuff starts to fly together once your parts pile of cleaned and painted bits starts growing big enough.
There is one thing I can recommend everyone does when painting. Tape off your rubber trim perfectly or remove it. Not worth the headache and damage it causes trying to carefully scrape the paint off. Working on the rain rail, I think that is what it is at least. The rubber U shaped trim connected to metal that bolts down in 10 spots. It is covered in white paint. Using chemicals to strip it off damages the rubber too much so you have to be super meticulous. Currently deciding if it is worth clear coating the aluminum on the diff. What do you guys think? |
9 Attachment(s)
OK talk was cheap and decided to do.
Bought some clear engine enamel, which is good for about 500 degrees F. Since there are so many nooks and crannies and it would be impossible to get the surface nice and clean for paint I decided to spritz a little on the aluminum and the blast that off with the steam cleaner, to ensure no aluminum powder was left on the surface. Unfortunately I started painting late so I had to make a little contraption to block the wind and get some heat on the diff so it would cure properly. It is warm in Southern Utah but it drops 30 degrees the instant the sun goes down. Yes that is tinfoil, I was in a rush!:giggle: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 Obviously hard to see but it is nice and clear coated, I put about 4 layers on to ensure it would survive being under the car. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 and mounted in the subframe and torqued to spec(~69 for the 17mm and ~19 for the 4 smaller 14mm) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 Also got the frame rail cleaned up and slotted in. Lots of overspray, so it took a TON of rubber restore to get it back to being nice and healthy again. It is still curing in this picture hence the splotches. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 Installed. Thanks to whoever pointed out that it needs to be tightened in a certain order. I wouldn't have even thought to look without that! I cleaned out the old sealant and put a nice thick bead of clear waterproof sealant inside the gap before I pressed it on. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 Also put the accessory trays on as well. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 Now onto buttoning up the rest of it! |
In for first start by Monday morning.
|
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1100384)
In for first start by Monday morning.
I wish Let the fun begin.... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391937137 |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:25 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands