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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1098594)
By they way, does anyone know where this connector mounts? Looks like it should be behind the drivers seat somewhere but I have poured over everything and still cant find it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391525509 Oh wait is it this one? It is the HT defroster then. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391533180 |
Curley beat me to it. Yes, it's the HT defroster. Mounts on the panel behind the driver's seat, behind your rollbar post.
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I'm guessing the ground location for the common ground(white ground bundle) is right by the connector as well?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391541523 |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1098728)
I'm guessing the ground location for the common ground(white ground bundle) is right by the connector as well?
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I think I have mine on that vertical bolt you can barely see in the right of the picture. Not sure if that's factory or not.
I can tell you the fuel pump and therefore car won't work without that bolted down. |
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1098748)
I think I have mine on that vertical bolt you can barely see in the right of the picture. Not sure if that's factory or not.
I can tell you the fuel pump and therefore car won't work without that bolted down. Mud guards installed. I was just being an obnoxious perfectionist...:crx: (I'm sure that gets old) but after some cleaning a little buffing and a heat gun I was able to get most of it out https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391550063 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391550063 |
You got me curious, so I just went out and checked. Black bracket for the HT defrost is bolted to the plastic piece behind the rear cockpit brace. Kinda all part of the same plastic that surrounds the seat belt mechanism.
Could not find a white connector or ground lug. Mine is a '94, so may be different. |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1098594)
Shut up Adam, you know you do amazing work dude! Your leather interior blows me away, no way I could DIY that sewing like you did.
The stuff you're doing here is amazing. Restoration of pieces I never even considered restoring. |
Originally Posted by revlimiter
(Post 1098811)
I know I do good work. And YES you very much could sew some leather. It really wasn't difficult. The stuff you're doing here is amazing. Restoration of pieces I never even considered restoring. |
The threads are most likely enough for the ground, if the coating on your new bolts is conductive, I'd probably use one of those as opposed to the painted one. Although if the bottom of the bolt isn't painted, it probably doesn't matter.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1098855)
The threads are most likely enough for the ground, if the coating on your new bolts is conductive, I'd probably use one of those as opposed to the painted one. Although if the bottom of the bolt isn't painted, it probably doesn't matter.
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OK in the HVAC project I forgot to to do the HVAC panel refresh with Revlimiter's kit. I ordered Barcode so it should look pretty amazing once I'm done.
You know...once I'm done disassembling the entire control unit and putting fresh grease on all the moving parts and repainting some plastic...god I hate myself sometimes. Pictures for my own sake so I can reassemble it. For every picture I show you guys I take about 20 more of each step, especially important on the complicated HVAC control systems. Dirt! The thing about the grease on these things is that it turns into a thick wax and THAT is what makes things not run smooth, not really the dirt but the grease drying up. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 Converting rust into iron, the bubbles means it's working!... . . http://images.sodahead.com/polls/000...ll_xlarge.jpeg https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 Clean electrical system. Bulbs are being replaced by cool white LEDs. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 What my AC/HVAC power switch looked like, the knobs were about the same state. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 Wet Primer https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 Dry, gotta wait about 3-4 hours for the primer to cure properly before painting otherwise if you paint to early and it dries before the primer does, the primer will contract as it looses moisture(dries) and create a little rupture ruining your work. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 Clean housing https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 All the parts ready to go back in when I get the updated Revlimiter decals put in place. The cables I sprayed silicone into and worked them back and forth to ensure they were nice and lubed. http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...c/IMG_1458.jpg Sanity break time... |
I'm doing a lot of double posts lately.
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Double post. Still propped both of them.
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You're insane.
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I'm coming to realize that you're painting every little thing that can possibly be made black/fresh on this car. Which is awesome. :giggle:
But what kind of paint are you using, just spraypaint? Curiosity is killin' me. |
Originally Posted by rleete
(Post 1098919)
You're insane.
Originally Posted by festersays
(Post 1098929)
I'm coming to realize that you're painting every little thing that can possibly be made black/fresh on this car. Which is awesome. :giggle:
But what kind of paint are you using, just spraypaint? Curiosity is killin' me. For plastic parts or trim yadda yadda, I use Dupli-color Trim paint. Gives it a perfect OEM finish on plastic and things like your windshield wipers/knobs. For things with a gloss finish to them I use Roll bar & chassis BUT I use a primer when I do plastic since plastic shows flaws much more than metal. Primer helps fill in any little imperfections(I tend to use a high fill primer). With the Dupli-color paint you need to use primer. On the engine block/hubs/diff/brake calipers I use VHT Caliper paint. It smooths out better than anything I've ever used before. Makes it almost like cheating. And honestly that is all I have used this entire project. I will never reveal how many cans of spray paint I have gone through.:giggle: Proper prep includes light sanding with 200+ grit depending on the damage. For plastic I tend to use 300+ since scratches show through much worse. After sanding I blast it with degreaser and use my boars hair detailing brush to get every nook and cranny. I tend not to use microfiber towels since if there is any little edge or hook it will hold on to the fibers and you won't notice until you have painted and you get extremely irate. If you did happen to do this just grab a latex/nitrile gloves and rub the part down with it and it will pull up any fibers that you left on the piece. After that I use a different boars hair brush and put a little acetone on it and quickly go over the piece and then blast it with hot water. Then I use my air compressor(with an inline filter for grease/water vapor) to blow the water off, rather than wasting a clean towel and by chance getting fibers on the part. Believe it or not but acetone/wax & grease remover should not be your last step in painting, IMHO. I have always had problems with paint adherence when I use that as my last stage prep. Better to be safe than sorry in my eyes. Also light coats are a must yes....but be wary of going too light. If you aren't getting enough paint on the product you are essentially peppering the part with paint. This is either caused by not holding the paint nozzle close enough to the part or moving the paint can too fast. This causes bumps, or introducing a sandpaper-like finish. So if you do find that your part has started to accumulate that finish, on your last coat blast it a little past your "comfort zone" (I.E chance of the paint running) and if you get it just right you can lay a thick enough coat on it to give it a perfect finish. Also if you REALLY want to get a good finish, put your work lights or a heat lamp on the part, to essentially bake the paint. Sorry if you already knew that but I thought I'd toss out the info out for others. From what I have found due to anger/dissapointment/trial & error...it works. |
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Well that was easy. HVAC levers travel effortlessly but with a nice solid feel. No catching or gritty noise anymore.
Old & Busted https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391577941 New hotness https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391577941 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391577941 |
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I think we need a new Smilie
I would call it *jeffbug* (notice the little play with the nickname and what happens when you look at this thread - you are getting the Jeff-bug - a little devil in your brain that tells you to clean every little piece of your Miata to a better-than-factory condition...) This: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391584279 or this: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391584279 |
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Originally Posted by Zaphod
(Post 1098980)
I think we need a new Smilie
I would call it *jeffbug* (notice the little play with the nickname and what happens when you look at this thread - you are getting the Jeff-bug - a little devil in your brain that tells you to clean every little piece of your Miata to a better-than-factory condition...) This or this https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391585585 http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gAzhhNvKw1...40/CATLICK.gif It needs to capture the insanity or stupidity of me though!:rofl: |
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