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How to Obtain a JeffBucc Worthy Coupler. By curly Step 1. Show a picture of a shitty ass plastic coupler, followed by a shitty ass steel coupler hacked off of a larger crush bent pipe. Attempt to pretty by wire wheeling. Step 2. Gather tools. Beer, rough looking coupler, 500 grit sand paper, Nevr-Dull aluminum polishing wool, electrical tape, flapper wheel, microfiber cloth, and drill press (not pictured). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397014026 Step 3. Wrap flapper wheel in electrical tape and jam it into the coupler. Step 4. Turn on drill press and hold the sand paper up to it. 10 seconds later, should look about like this. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397014026 Step 5. Hold polishing wool against coupler, stroking up and down until well coated in the magic black oil the stuff creates, about one minute. Hold microfiber cloth against coupler to clean it off. Step 6. Repeat step 5 a couple times. Step 7. Bask in the glory. And yes, that's a blue iPhone 5c with black case. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397014026 |
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1119712)
How to Obtain a JeffBucc Worthy Coupler. By curly That looks amazing, you are far too kind good sir! I would kind of hate to put that in a coolant pipe sort of like how I should never have put that PPF in my car. Want to know what scared the ever loving shit out of me just barely? The capacitor on my COP harness blew like a god damn firecracker. I thought someone got shot outside the garage. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397014893 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397014893 I think that is it for me tonight folks! Time to get some damn sleep |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1119660)
OK Jeff makes his first appearance...Cranked the engine for a little while till I saw oil pressure.
gauges light up, tach lights up, lights flip up and down(one at a time though...hmmm) Lights stay on(think I know the problem), windshield wipers dont work(not a big deal) but everything else looks golden. Do I start the engine for real now? I'm a little scared to reconnect the injectors and COP. this car is not built for running and driving :party: now go polish the block. Because all blocks need a mirror finish |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1119731)
what gave you that crazy idea?
this car is not built for running and driving :party: now go polish the block. Because all blocks need a mirror finish Tonight was a little demoralizing. |
yeah well, I know the feel. I'm sure you saw that one thread
tomorrow hook everything up and fire her up like a man. your voice will get deeper. ball hair. the whole 9 |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1119736)
yeah well, I know the feel. I'm sure you saw that one thread
tomorrow hook everything up and fire her up like a man. your voice will get deeper. ball hair. the whole 9 What I want to know is what caused the capacitor to blow. Too bad I'll be working all day tomorrow, wont get the chance to work on the car. Still sucks what happened to yours. The Subaru is looking good though man! |
Possibly dwell settings? Get the ms to connect first thing. It'll work any time it's powered.
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You've changed enough stuff that a full re-tune is in order anyway.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1119753)
You've changed enough stuff that a full re-tune is in order anyway.
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The cap likely blew because it was wired backwards. Electrolytic caps are +/- sensitive. See that big white label with the negative symbols on it. Wire the lower potential (probably ground in your case) to that side.
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On top of Chris's info in his email about the LEDs you can access MS as long as your ignition is set to ON which will power the board and let your computer pick up the usb signal. I have a slightly diff board but the LEDS are for the Jim Stim test board/visually testing to see that what should be firing, actually is.
The lights popping up one at a time is your flair man. *One pops up, you raise a thick eye brow as the onlookers gasp at your car's blue beauty, the other one pops up* It could work! Also lol @ the -4 props. I'm his brother so I get to make boobies/pee pee/fart/poopy jokes any time I like. That, or E30 guyz just get neg props by the sysadmin automatically. |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1119722)
Want to know what scared the ever loving shit out of me just barely? The capacitor on my COP harness blew like a god damn firecracker. I thought someone got shot outside the garage.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1119868)
that's god's way of telling you you suck at wiring and that you shouldn't take polarity so trivially. Gotta start somewhere though, before this car I hadn't touched a soldering iron before. So believe me when I'm saying I'm learning wiring from scratch. |
I dont know about everyone else but I can not connect to the MS unless the FP relay is in. If I pull it out my computer will not connect to MS. Maybe plug it in so your injectors prime and give it another go
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Originally Posted by ScottyP3821
(Post 1119948)
I dont know about everyone else but I can not connect to the MS unless the FP relay is in. If I pull it out my computer will not connect to MS. Maybe plug it in so your injectors prime and give it another go
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Hose coupler:
JEGS Inline Radiator Hose Drain - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397064390 Replace that drain valve with a plug. It'll look right at home in your car. Wiring things backwards: don't do that. :) |
Curly's coupler is gorgeous . . . but I'm still at a loss. Why is it needed?
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Just cause.
Shipped today. USPS says it'll be there Saturday. Just to let you know, no finger has touched it since polishing. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1120006)
Just cause.
Shipped today. USPS says it'll be there Saturday. Just to let you know, no finger has touched it since polishing. While I'm sure curly agrees my metal coupler wouldn't be an issue, he had a spare lying around that will be less of an issue. Plus with the power of beer on your side garage work is enjoyable, or less painful and aggravating. I'm guessing RadioShack supplies capacitors of that size correct? Can't believe I stupidly reversed the polarity. That is embarrassing. Hopefully one of the few stupid mistakes I made with all the wiring I did...hopefully. Don't be surprised if not. I'm diving back down tonight to see if I can access megasquirt with my laptop. I remember installing all the usb drivers i need and getting the latest firmware so hopefully it actually has power to get to that point. Then I need to do some serious reading on what tuning changes I need to make. |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1120015)
Plus with the power of beer on your side garage work is enjoyable, or less painful and aggravating.
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Well I just had a sudden clarity of mind on why I had issues besides the capacitor of course...I was looking over a picture and saw a thick black wire poking up by the brake booster.
Oh hey...look...my engine ground is disconnected. God I hate myself at times. Also grounded my headlights to the stupid starter instead of the alternator....hence the constant power being on. Friends don't let friends connect wiring sleep deprived. |
Yeah but like, aren't you always sleep deprived? :party:
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1120118)
Yeah but like, aren't you always sleep deprived? :party:
24 hours:mild discomfort and a slight decrease in memory and a large decrease in short term memory 48 hours: physical discomfort, food tastes bland, memory is shot unless you read something 5 times just to get the idea in your head 72 hours: welcome to zombie state, you better not have to do anything that requires thought or physical ability otherwise you are going to fail 96 hours: Fuck. That. Never again. I think I was close to death at that point. Insomnia sucks, especially when meds like Ambien and Lunesta don't work. There is one drug that worked(read past tense) but considering it is a class 1 and Utah frowns heavily on it, it isn't worth the risk. Anyone have a good source for local 10k capacitors? Largest I've found is 4700k. Maybe try a car dealer or an audio store? |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1120015)
Hopefully one of the few stupid mistakes I made with all the wiring I did...hopefully. Don't be surprised if not.
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IDK, hallucinating due to sleep deprivation in 500 person college lectures actually made them somewhat interesting. All those pretty lights.
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1120004)
Curly's coupler is gorgeous . . . but I'm still at a loss. Why is it needed?
FM intercooler piping makes the normal one-piece idea foul out. |
Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1120198)
IDK, hallucinating due to sleep deprivation in 500 person college lectures actually made them somewhat interesting. All those pretty lights.
I legitimately don't remember half the work i did this last time putting the MX6 together. 68 hour straight through wrenching bender FTL. |
Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1120199)
FM intercooler piping makes the normal one-piece idea foul out.
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1119312)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396945998
for those wondering you can buy this hose barb at vatozone for $3, you want 1 1/4". https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396945998 I bought one for my FM lower rad hose (needed to extend it due to my rad relocate). -Zach -Zach |
^ Awesome. That'll be in my next Mcmaster shipment for sure. Thanks!
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Will I do any damage to the COP without a capacitor on it until I can find a 10k capacitor to replace the burned out one?
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It's debatable that the capacitor is actually required (that's what I got from the COPs thread anyway) ;)
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I never ran one on my 90 because i read the capacitor was built inline to the oem wiring i used for it, or something of that sort.
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I dont run one on my 94. Never had any issue. Im wondering if the cap prevented you from blowing the coils?
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How is the cap wired up?
If it's a power supply filter cap then bigger might be fine. If you can show a crude napkin drawing of the circuit we'll tell you your options ;) |
Originally Posted by leboeuf
(Post 1120383)
How is the cap wired up?
If it's a power supply filter cap then bigger might be fine. If you can show a crude napkin drawing of the circuit we'll tell you your options |
No capacitor on my COPs. No issues.
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1119722)
I thought someone got shot outside the garage.
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Connected the engine ground in hopes that it would solve the no power issue with megasquirt, still no dice. I have all the drivers installed, and still no lights from megasquirt, and the fuel pump still doesn't prime on ignition key.
Time to track down a fault with the power wire. |
Hmm ok ignore that. For some reason the fuel injection fuse was missing, so I scavenged one from my old car, turned the key, and my laptop instantly recognized MS.
still no fuel pump priming though... |
Isnt there some thing with 1.6 cars where the FP is wired up through the stock air meter? I think you have to jumper something or something.
(I've got an NB so my NA6 knowledge is somewhat suspect) |
You are massively correct E02K.
Jumped the wire from fuel pump to the AFM and the car instantly started after I accidentally turned the key to far! Holy shit that surprised me. I shut it down quickly though since it was completely unintentional. After I jumped to AFM there is a very loud buzzing noise coming from beneath the cars gauges... not sure why this is. I ran a wire from the fuel pump and connected it to these two points on the AFM https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381422159 |
Looks like it is the fuel pump relay under the dash that is buzzing loudly.
Scared I may have an air leak at the turbo. High pitched whistle on shut down. Oil gauge isn't responding to pressure so I may need to clean the oil sender pin and find out if that is the problem. |
SO IT LIVES?
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Just...not a very healthy alive!
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1120453)
Oil gauge isn't responding to pressure so I may need to clean the oil sender pin and find out if that is the problem.
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Originally Posted by M.Adamovits
(Post 1120470)
Can you confirm it actually has pressure? Last thing you need is to damage this work of art. |
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Yeah it seriously didn't even crank for 1/2 a second and it suddenly started up. No stumbling or anything. It does have a loping idle though. Can't tell too much without the tach working.
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Pulled the CAS and COP and cranked with the oil feed line from the turbo off. It dumped about 1/2 cup of oil into the cup, so I don't think any damage is happening to the turbo and it is developing oil pressure.
Also switched the tach settings in tuner studio to ON, but there was interference from the PWM signal so I changed it to tach and still no response from the gauges. If my tach out is on 2B on MS, which is the correct output for tunerstudio? I also need to set the 99 tps/IAT to a new setting. Tunerstudio is reading it at 51% throttle at idle, but it is idling at 2350 rpm.*edit* I may have the 5v and ground reversed after a little reading. When I have the fuel pump jumped it is reading the fuel pump at 100% duty cycle as well, which may be why I'm getting such a loud noise from the fuel pump relay. |
The fuel pump is either on or off, no MX5 made (yet) uses PWM on the fuel pump.
More likely you just have a bad relay. |
Originally Posted by richyvrlimited
(Post 1120545)
The fuel pump is either on or off, no MX5 made (yet) uses PWM on the fuel pump.
More likely you just have a bad relay. I think I may have ran the wire from the fuel pump to the AFM incorrectly to jump it. We'll see. |
Wiring is such a pain in the ass. I don't even like putting in aftermarket stereos anymore.
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1120430)
Hmm ok ignore that. For some reason the fuel injection fuse was missing, so I scavenged one from my old car, turned the key, and my laptop instantly recognized MS.
still no fuel pump priming though... |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1120474)
I'm going to pull the turbo oil feed and see for sure that oil is flowing.
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Originally Posted by ScottyP3821
(Post 1120599)
Be careful with that. Wouldnt want oil squirting all over your clean car. I would hook that feed up to the turbo
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Originally Posted by ScottyP3821
(Post 1120599)
Be careful with that. Wouldnt want oil squirting all over your clean car. I would tape the feed into a water bottle. Don't worry, I wouldn't just let the oil pour out over the engine bay! The good news is that oil is flowing, how much pressure it is developing is still the question. |
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I needed a break from tunerstudio and researching stuff so I decided to get my headlights and other lights working right.
Forgot to check the continuity of the wires when I installed the new harness and it turns out grounding to the starter is not so good idea. The diode I had put in was in the wrong direction so it wasn't blocking the high beams when only the low beams were on. So after changing the direction and getting everything sorted out they work perfectly. My god they are bright too. When all 4 lights are on it makes the factory xenons on my Jetta look weak and dim. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397273073 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397273073 Also thought I'd take a quick shot of the gauges with the white LEDs I put in. The bleeding around the needle caps is only due to them not being pressed on firmly since I need to align them once my tach starts working. The brightness of the trip meter and total miles is over-accentuated by the camera. It looks great IRL. http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...c/IMG_2611.jpg |
Classy as $!&#. Well done sir.
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