Without. Cleaner.

I hate wings/spoilers.
Only one I don't hate is that duckbill thing others were talking about.

I vote without

car looks clean and nice as is

Woooo 100 pages! I vote no spoiler for now.. It would be easy enough to throw it on later if you want but I say rock it without it for now...

I personally like the look of the spoiler, but the trunk won't stay open thing was a deal killer for me. Ended up selling it. If you decide to get rid of it, contact me.

BTW, in regards to batteries: if you have an Interstate place nearby, call them and ask for a "blem". Much cheaper ($40 for my wife's Tracker) and same warranty. For a small one like the Miata, it might even be cheaper. The only visual difference was no factory style sticker on the front and the handle mount was deformed.

damn, double post. Jeff is infecting me! Next thing you know, I'll be polishing things.

That spoiler isn't really functional and adds weight . . . maybe you can use that to tie-beak? Looking from the side, I could go either way. It's just a great-looking car. It'll be fine no matter what you decide.

I bought several sheets of 1/8" 2'x4' ABS from Amazon for the red car. Planning to make door cards, radiator cover and other doo-dads with them. Jeff has shown how useful they are and given us a good way to perform clean bends.

I didn't realize how versatile it was till I was making my gauge backing plate, the stuff is awesome! Highly flexible while stiff and it takes a ton of heat to melt it, plus it isn't a pain in the ass like metal is.

Agrees on all points several of you have made, while it doesn't look bad, I am a big advocate of clean and simple(if that hasn't been obvious).

Jeff another option for a battery that costs far less than $150 brand new...

Advance Auto Parts has a nice Miata replacement battery. Buy it online, use discount code "A124" at checkout, acquire brand new battery for like.... $70 after core exchange.

I don't even bother disconnecting or putting a tender on Miata batteries through winter. I just replace them every Spring.

^Ben, you's wasting money man. $70 might be cheap but a $30 battery tender will save you that time and time again.

I really like the look of the spoiler from behind. To me it kinda squares it off, and I like that (similar to the look of an MSM from behind). But I don't prefer the look from the side.

I'd say start with it off and add it later when you get bored.

Progress is awesome.

Don't have electricity where we store the Miata over winter, and don't feel like bringing it inside. Lots of work and stuff.

Well I got home from work and the battery tender light is already green so it was worth the $35!

Concealer some day I'll be as baller as you flashin' your wad of cash!

I want to see you guys meet. :rofl:

I too vote for no wing.

On the battery tender: it can show green on a dead battery. The battery can "charge" up while not actually having any real capacity to hold that charge. Not trying to scare you, just sayin'.

Because this has happened to me too. My shiny yellow top Optima turned out to be a paperweight after sitting for a year.

Here is the scoop on the spoiler. If you like it, fine. If you're impartial, fine. If you're looking to get others opinions on swaying you either way, fine.

The real deal with it is: This is a small car. If you use it regularly or daily it or do things in it you will be using its trunk. The spoiler makes using the trunk absolutely annoying. You have to change the tension on the spring constantly and then when that stops working maybe even get a hydraulic arm. Unless you like wasting your time dicking around with the trunk staying open as you try to get your tools out of it or your groceries or whatever don't bother. It's not that big of a deal to fix it but it seems like in the last 5 years I've been adjusting it constantly. It's pretty heavy and is a waste of time to mess with if you could go either way on it. I will be dumping mine on my next paint job.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396804162

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396804162

It's all good, the spoiler ain't going on, just crowd sourcing the masses!

Only things left to do is hook up the intercooler cold side piping, Wire in the DB12 connector, and finish the injector harness.

I should be done, but my body decided sleep was more important...damn physical necessities!

Made a cover plate for the COP power unit and then sealed it with black gasket maker. Much better than filling the whole damn thing with silicone.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396804162

Finished the IAC and VTPS connectors, wires will run under the TB so they won't be poking out like that.

I just need to connect:
TPS signal wire for the MS to 2L
connect the 5vref signal wire for the MS to 1N

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396804162

I know the connector on the right was never connected but does anyone know what the left one's match is? These are coming out of the same bundle as the TPS/IAC wires

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396804162

I believe the 2 orange connectors are the original injector connectors, so I can snip them correct?

Still trying to figure out what the small single pin connector goes to. Part of the same bundle as the CAS/water temp/injector bundle.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396804162

Getting there!

thanks Jeff. It did touch me in bad places :(

Small white one is P/S. Connects to the top of the pump, I believe. No idea about the other one.

One of those orange ones is the coils, the other one is the cam angle sensor. The yellow one is the single wire for the narrowband o2 sensor.

Bring the spoiler when/if you get the thing corner balanced.

Bottom = CAS
Middle= narrow band
Top= I can't remember I don't have my 91 anymore and I don't remember seeing it on my 94.

Little more done, COP harness finally wrapped up and finished. I had to fix it since I accidentally put igniter #3 wire on the wrong pin on the power unit. The 2 black wires are 2&4 that will go into the DB12 connector.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396843723

Maybe I missed it, but what loom are you using? I've got a bunch of split loom that looks really close to that. Almost can't tell it isn't, but I can. McMaster-Carr? High Temp?

A combination of the both. The larger loom of the COP harness is velcro-lined high temp, it's cool stuff.

===

It is no secret that I hate wiring, but the end result, when done right, is so satisfying.

Injector harness is all finished up, looks about 100x better than the original scary one. New connectors that don't fall off if you breathe on them is reassuring as well. Time to put it all back together again.

I'm not ashamed to admit this took me a while to make look nice. 2&4 injector wires have insulated spade disconnects on them so if I need to take the harness out I don't have to cut the wires.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396856195

I got less done than I wanted to tonight. Had to modify several things to make it all work.

COPs installed. I forgot I bought the TSE bracket a long time ago, so that was a nice find! The only thing problem was that the bracket is designed for the stock VC and not the 323 one I have on my engine. So you have to cut off about an inch on the front of the engine to make the bracket fit.

Really well designed piece though. MUCH cleaner looking than the brackets that go over the COPs. The wiring just BARELY fit under the connectors, thank god.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396872283

The new arrangement gave me a couple more crucial inches to hide all the bulk of the COP wiring under the fender. Thank god for the passenger firewall corner though. It is my unofficial hidey hole for all the wiring.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396872283

This is what took the bulk of my time. I believe I ordered the wrong throttle cable(1.6) so there was too much free-play in the gas pedal. So I was incredibly pissed because I thought I'd have to wait for a new cable. Then I remembered I had the bracket that I was going to make for the coolant lines sitting in my box of parts.

So after much bending to clear the IM hump, and making sure it was in line with the TB, and then drilling holes and filing the entry point of the cable, this is what I turned out. My metal work is much shittier than the plastic parts I've made. I'll probably get it powder-coated in the future since it is steel.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396872283

What air line goes to the hole on the back of the V.C.?

Also, as I've stated before, it is impossible to clean the cluster fuck that is behind the engine. Saying that, I did make it much more organized than it was before.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396872283

That's about as clean as mine looks, and I've had much longer to work on it. And it's a 1.6 with half as many wires and vacuum lines.

The intersection of coolant hose, vacuum lines, wiring, fuel lines, clutch line, and brake line is simply too much for that little area. At least it's concentrated on only one area.

Im running mine to a oil catch can VTA from the valve cover on both ports. I capped the Intake manifold vaccum hole and the one that I had on the intake. I got tired of going through pcv valves. Even the metal ones get dirty and go to shit after a lot of abuse.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...urbo-image-jpg

OK I put a plug on the VC rear port.

Can you guys double check my vacuum routing for the FPR?

For the T'd connection I ran the vacuum off the front port right behind the TB.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396902160

And for the top port on the FPR I run to the return hard fuel line correct?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396902160

that throttle cable bracket looks like it will bend

It may look so but the bends add a lot of strength to it. If it does I'll remake it with thicker metal.

Had the bung for the IAT port on the charge pipe welded shut just going to pop it back on.

Still need to wire the db12, find the tach out source to tap into, and find the 2 knock sensors the original owner wired into the car

TB intercooler pipe all hooked up. What a bitch to get the clearances just right. No way in hell I could have done this with the Flyin' Miata adapter plate and 1.6 TB.

The air filter on the BOV is a little on the large side but it doesn't touch/rub on anything so who cares! The coolant reroute pipe I ordered worked perfect. As you can see in the picture it is still touching, but only just barely, there is no pressure on either pipe.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396945998

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396945998

for those wondering you can buy this hose barb at vatozone for $3, you want 1 1/4".

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396945998

the coolant lines prior to cutting

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396945998

all joined up and merry

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396945998

Thank. Christ. So glad that is done. All vacuum lines are hooked up. Only thing left is wiring up the knock sensor, db12 connector to MS, and to fill the radiator with coolant. Then I'm going to do several cranks to prime all the lines and the system before attempting to turn the motor over.

I haven't replaced the spark plugs since after the car was totaled I put new ones in the car to test if it would start, so I imagine they are still perfect after only taking the car around the block a couple times.

Sorry Curly, for some reason the Quick Reply box is what causes the double posts. Anytime I go to, "Go advanced", it never double posts.

Plastic joiner? :facepalm:

For now, I don't have pipe in that diameter. Face palm away, I know it ain't perfect, just needed something to get the car started.

Jeff, did you use the FM tool to set the cams when installing the timing belt? Just want to make sure you didn't leave it between the cams if you did. I can't tell in the pic but something between the cam gears looks funny and I can't quite put my finger on it.

I've never removed the timing belt so timing hasn't been affected at all during this whole build. What you are probably seeing is the hose for the coolant line at the front of the block.

===

And before anyone else says anything about the plastic coupler I found that my lower radiator pipe from the stock car would fit so I cut a section off and put it on. Shouldn't be an issue now.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396959528

Also assembled my Megasquirt

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396959528

On my way to Walmart to buy some distilled water to fill the radiator.

Jeff, if you're interested I have an aluminum coupler with beaded ends I can send you.

Also, is there no way to clean this up? I feel like if you put a 90* piece on the valve cover you could run it to the firewall with the line from the intake manifold so it would be cleaner. And you could run the radiator line below the wiring loom and attach it to the old intake brace holes.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396945998

Just look how clean you can make it with a little work. It's only time, you can sleep tomorrow.

[IMG]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...psnqyrcijo.jpg[/IMG]

Jeff that joiner is part of using the Cadillac hose for the re-route, right?

God damnit Curly, I can't ignore my clutter after that spotless bay. The oil catch can line going over the IM was pretty lazy. I guess I could turn it 180 degrees and go down between the VC and IM and then route it down the firewall to the catch can.

How did you mount your coolant line? Not sure I have a bracket big enough to wrap around it.

Also, you were just being nice last time when you said my wiring/rear passenger area was cleaner than yours. Mine is a damn cluster bomb in comparison.

I believe so.

Here is the same one on Amazon I bought for cheap, $14, one left!

Excellent. I already have the hose, i just failed to purchase a joiner. Thanks!

I'll try to get a picture soon of that side, engine is currently out, but it doesn't show all of he cluster thats back there.

Thanks! OK Curly, I balled just about as hard as I could for an hour...and I'm glad I did. Thanks for pointing out how messy it was. When you are in the middle of the project you sometimes don't notice all the little things you could have done to make everything flow better.

Before

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396973131

I routed the EBC hose under the radiator cover if you can spot it. Perfect place to hide it in my opinion, plus it helps seal the air better too!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396973131

Routed the catch can hoses around the back of the IM and removed all the vacuum hoses and rerouted them in the cluster fuck region so they all meshed together well. Also moved a ton of the wiring around and was able to get a lot of it out of sight out of mind. Slightly bent the feed/return fuel hard lines.

Much MUCH better

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396973131

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396973131

I'll worry about tying down the coolant line when I can think of a good solution. For now it is time to get some coolant in the lines, hook up the battery and see if I can get my laptop to communicate with MS.

Awesome progress, and great job on the cleanup.

A couple big ass Adel clamps would be perfect. In my experience, make sure you get the ones with stainless bands or they will end up looking like ass with a quickness.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396978471
http://www.maneywire.com/stainless-s...-404-l-en.html

I just used a zip tie to the manifold brace hole. I used a clamp at first, it was a pain in the ass, cause you need a long bolt, fender washer, another fender washer, and the nut.

I've had coolant sitting in the lines for an hour or two now. No leaks! Need to lengthen a couple ground wires later than I'll give it a go.

On my way to the paint shop to drop the hard top off to really finish the car up!

I don't want it to end.

Not needed. I just trimmed off both ends to get what I wanted. No joiner (i.e., failure point) in the middle.

Ditto.

I sure as hell do!

How is that a big point of failure? Its not like the coolant is under a tremendous amount of pressure, and unless you are a pussy and can't tighten hose clamps I don't see it as a huge issue. But the whole picture is small after the amount of sleep I'm negating.

It's really not a big deal. It's not as clean as no joiner, but it's in an accessible spot. Would a metal joiner be better? Sure. 10 years from now you'll need to replace the plastic one.

Seriously. NBD.

Sorry that came off a bit more intense than I was feeling.

Curly is hooking me up with a metal coupler so the problem is taken care of. Those silicone one piece reroutes are sweet but pricy.

You need to get out more: https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...e-parts-75584/

Ain't that the truth.

OK Jeff makes his first appearance...Cranked the engine for a little while till I saw oil pressure.

gauges light up, tach lights up, lights flip up and down(one at a time though...hmmm) Lights stay on(think I know the problem), windshield wipers dont work(not a big deal) but everything else looks golden.

Do I start the engine for real now? I'm a little scared to reconnect the injectors and COP.

LOL, as long as it has oil pressure - go for it. The sooner the better, so that if it DOES have starting problems we can help quicker.

Hmm well I gave it a go and MS isn't recieving power for some reason...not sure what happened there. Need to see what I did wrong.

OK found the issue...sort of. The starter sucked most of the juice from the battery so it has starting clicking.

Found the red white wire had a butt splice I didn't see come loose so I resoldered it. Cranked the engine and the led's on the board came on while I was cranking the engine. But the battery died right after that. Can you only access MS while the engine is running? Other than while turning the motor over, the LEDs wouldn't stay lit.

Thank god it wasn't my fault! Just hopefully, it will start once I get a charge on it.