One step at a time, looks like some of that is going to be cleaned up soon. I'm assuming he won't leave a giant bundle of red wire back there for instance...

Jeff, I switched the T so the FPR got a direct line of travel from it's source on the intake manifold, and with fresh vacuum line, your hose clamp is most likely overkill. You'll probably do more damage than good on the little vacuum line. A clean black zip tie is probably all you need. Don't forget the Armor All on the zip tie of course. And along the same lines, the giant brass T is most likely overkill, but at least stronger than the plastic ones, albeit less inconspicuous.

I've T'd off the FPR for the MAP, then T'd off the MAP line once it's in the cabin for the MS, and it's worked great for years.

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense on the direct FPR then T'ing off the line. The brass T was already on the car in a different spot so I just reused it. I'm sure the small plastic T I got with the gauges is more than sturdy, and cleaner looking too.

Would there be issues with too much voltage draw by tapping both gauges into the same ignition wire source and running an inline 5a 12v fuse on each gauge?

Did you miss post #1600?

:rofl:No

We are talking about the same thing, just different places. I just forgot about it!:facepalm:

Sorry, been a long day at work already haha.

How much power do you think your gauges need to operate?
Come on, you are over that level :)

oh you need to power 2 gauges?

better do it right and get one of these:party:

http://www.dreamstime.com/royalty-fr...r-image5317696

On a serious note:
I run all my gauges off the fuse box tapping into not very important fuses. No splicing or cutting of wires, and if something happens the fuse will pop and nothing will short or burn or be damaged.

Since the wideband gauge uses a heated O2 so the current draw is higher than you'd expect. But still.. The ignition cylinder uses 12 gauge wires that supply the current to everything else in the vehicle but the starter.

Yup, I'm just overthinking this as always. Vuti, my wiring skills are so not over that level, I'm basically learning from scratch as I go here.

----

As per Curly's advice, I changed the vacuum setup. Put the T on correctly so the FPR is the main line and the T is going to the MS. Boost gauge is then T'd off of the MS vacuum line.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394742381

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394742381

...was joking.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394752060

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394761699

----

Wired everything up. Was a lot easier than I was making it in my head. I still need to wire the analog +/- wires but I need to find out what the pins in his ms3 connector goes. He did a DIY ms3x, so brain didn't make it otherwise it would be easy to know what goes where.

All the wiring not going back in the car...thank god

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394761699

Dashboard harness all cleaned up.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394761699

I taped it like this just in case there was an issue with the wires, I could clip the tape really quick. I used anti friction tape to bundle it all together(if you can't tell I love this stuff. $2.36 at Wal-mart...I have 6 rolls of it)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394761699

I routed the wires up the oem firewall harness, taping it as I went and pulled it under the HVAC box to the center tombstone. I haven't trimmed the ground cables up yet, I want to wait until I put the dashboard back in.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394761699

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394761699

Said analog cables I still need to connect

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394761699

Also it looks like I've sprung a small leak in the transmission. How tight does this bolt need to be? Is there a gasket/crush washer that goes under it?

It has leaked about a tablespoon of oil since I filled it up.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394768676

Is that the same stuff you used to "anti-rattle" the HVAC rods and such? I meant to ask you about that before as I've been looking for something similar that isn't just 'fabric tape' that'll get all squishy when it gets hot. This is gonna sound stupid but I can haz link please?

Is that a 6 speed? If so, be VERY DAMN CAREFUL about what plugs you mess with. I know there are plugs in that trans that are not actually plugs, but retainers for internal parts :noes:

Yeah I was careful not to remove that plug! There is one with a ball bearing where if you remove it you have to tear apart your transmission.

I believe this one is the reverse light switch.

Sorry I was getting some food and missed this. same stuff. It is at walmart in either the crafts area or by the automotive/lighting area.

Just gotta look around, they tend to move it

Just tore apart Doppels car, that plug was leaking on his as well. I think I did see a washer though. Definitely should look into that.

Hey Jeff when you wire up that boost gauge, be a doll and exhaustively document exactly what you do, kthx. :bowrofl:

Want me to get some shots of the ignition wires I tapped into? Or more to the point the ms3 analog connection?

Ignition wires you tapped into for boost gauge. MS2 gives no fucks about what the boost gauge is doing. :rofl::giggle:

Red/black for lighting
Blue for switched
White for constant

There are 2 white that look identical but one has a small blue stripe on it. Use the pure white one. I had about 5 random unused vampire clips on my ignition harness...don't be that guy.

I'll take some pictures later today but I'm in Cedar City actually doing real work for most the day.

*edit* fixed the constant and switched to the correct wires*

Most excellent thanks!

am I blind or am I not understanding which plug/bolt he's talking about?


so you're the one working on his car?
so you'll be the one that gets the honor of installing my long block into his car?

teehee

I'm in the same boat, that's why I said to be damn careful. Sounds like he is talking about whatever switch that is.

While I'm on about that, what the hell is the 3rd electrical plug on the 6 speed anyway? I know where the VSS is and I assume one is reverse lights, but what is the 3rd?

/threadjack

It is the Back-Up Light Switch that is on the lower passenger side of the transmission that I'm talking about.
Then you have the Speedo Sensor on the top of the passenger side
The Neutral Switch is on the drivers side top

Neutral switch?

In that case yes you can remove, clean, put something on the last couple threads (the last couple that are on the outside, if that makes sense, not the inner-most ones) and re-install that bad boy.

Neutral, DERP! :facepalm: Carry on with yo bad OCD self.

Hey slacker, when are you going to finish polishing that transmission?

I'm guessing it will drain all the oil once remove....

The thing I will do when I remove it is add another inch to the wires of the switch so that when I tighten it it doesn't pull it taught.

Not much done tonight, spent most the night studying the correct wiring for MS3x and the sensor grounds for the Brown analog sensor ground wires for the AFR/Boost gauge.

So from what I have read. You want to connect them into 2C & 2D black/green signal grounds off the ecu harness. Do I want to attach each brown wire into separate wires to reduce the noise of the signal? Or will attaching both gauges to the same point not affect "noise".

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394870944

When I was looking at the ecu harness I also spotted this....this, does not look safe to me...at all. Or do a lot of people splice wires like this...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394870944


Then I started to track down all the problems with the wiring in the engine bay.

The pins are loose. Clip and replace with a undamaged from the 90 Miata harness?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394870944

This comes out from the injector harness behind the VIC's solenoid.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394870944

The VIC's solenoid. Red wraps around to the drivers fender and plugs into a blue single pin connector(although the connector is a 3 pin). Black I am pretty sure is the ground wire.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394870944

Fixed the AIT wires for the intercooler. It had unprotected loose wires just running to the intercooler, so I shrink wrapped them together and then put some of the new snazzy braided cable wrap on it. Also wrapped up the exposed pin connector the AIT harness goes into

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394870944

Slowly but damn surely.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394879701
Now that is what I am talking about - thats the way I like a proper wiring!
Props of course!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394879701
That seem to be some shield wires, I have to look up the wire colours, to see what they are.
Could you have a look at which connector pin they end?

BTW, dammit that looks tasty... (Almost makes me wish I didn't hang myself yesterday due to the Brain... :giggle:)
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...c/IMG_0255.jpg

Slow and steady on the wiring. Get it all cleaned up. It pays dividends to not have to worry about poor quality wiring. Bad wiring is how cars catch fire.

I'm doing EXACTLY the same thing right now on the red car. I think I've removed more than 20 wire taps at this point, fixed insulation, done proper wire splices with solder and heat shrink, etc., etc.

Here's a link for a VICS connector. I was in the same boat, PO "RTV'd" the wires to the VICS solenoid. Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

Yeah the wire wrap turned out great!

It looks like 2/0 and 2/N.

That picture is so old, when I first bought my bakery, when I didn't know what the hell I was doing!

It is so frustrating dealing with all these wiring issues. Problems that could be easily avoided are what piss me off the most in life.

So Jeff, do you own a great harvest franchise, or the whole company? I had always thought it was a franchise only.

I'd have one baller car if I owned the whole company! No, I own the franchise rights and the store in Cedar City.

Well, that was a pricy hole. Had to purchase a 9/16 drill bit and a 3/8 NPT tap to install the IAT sensor.

Drill it

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394926420

Tap it. I ran the tap and removed it several time to test fit the sensor. I found that 1/2 way down the tap gave it a VERY snug fit...which is what I wanted since the metal isn't thick enough to thread the sensor on all the way.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394926420

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394926420

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394926420

I routed the wires through the headlights, down the side of the radiator, through the fans, and onto the sensor. It really makes it look clean.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394926420

Uh, Jeff, you do have a baller car. lol!

Uh...was that sensor really tight when it bottomed out on the little flange?

I'm talking more baller than I have currently gone!

The picture is misleading, there isn't a flange right there. I basically stopped tightening it when the last of the threads went into the lip of the hole. I only tapped it far enough that the sensor was very tight when tightening it. Plus I put sealant on the threads, it was kind of pointless though since I got it so perfect that it ejected all the sealant as I tightened.

Trust me, it isn't going anywhere.

IMHO a dab of rtv or jb weld on the threads will make that thing stay forever and seal up. I used JB weld because the IAT sensors are cheap and I had no plans on removing it anytime soon.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394933087

I might dab some red loctite around the base of it just in case.

Not sure why I didn't use some rtv. I just used some on my reverse sensor on my transmission to hopefully stop the leak.

Needed to take a break from wiring so I decided to put the exhaust back on. It isn't perfect but after taking metal polish to the pipes for a while I decided that is as far as I wanted to take it.

The Magnaflow resonators have some scratches and dents in them from the crash so there wasn't a ton I could do. Not to concerned about it though.

I had to make an exhaust hanger for the drivers side tailpipe due to the weight of the exhaust. I would have ignored it but I know how much these things move without the proper amount of hangers. The previous owner had a bracket made but it was pretty shaky looking.

So I grabbed an extra exhaust hanger from the other car and hammered it flat, drilled a couple M8x1.25 holes and a class 8 bolts with a compression washer and put red loctite on them for security.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394946757

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394946757

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394946757

Not done with adjusting it. The right side is pulled in too much but the left side is perfect. I might remove the coupling on the right exhaust pipe and pull it out a little bit for some equilibrium. I've messed with trying to do it with the poly hangers and it just resettles back to its static position after a while.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394946757

Time to drive up to Cedar and pick up my wiring supplies I ordered for my headlights. Going to build a proper harness a la Revlimiter style.

Jeff. The under side of your car... Let's talk about this. I want to see a full sized human standing next to the car to verify we have not been looking at one of these guys...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394981678

Damn...You caught me! Been taking pictures of others cars and acting like I'm bad at photoshop when I'm actually amazing at it!:rofl: I took a picture of myself with the car once...a while back. Apparently too many of our glitter brony members were turned on and several recommended I not include myself in pictures!:dealwithit:

----
OK back to business. As I said earlier I ordered a bunch of connectors and parts to completely redo the headlight harness. Moss includes 6 wires...of which are all uninsulated male spade connectors...pretty crappy for $500 headlights if you ask me. They could have at least ponied out 30 more cents for insulated spades!

So I followef in the footsteps of Revlimiter(he is much much smarter than I) and followed his Moss lopro rewire guide. Not only does it make it a real harness but it allows you to run all 4 headlights at once, when the brights are on. (source- revlimiter.net - Low Profile Headlight Wiring )

This literally took me all night to do, and I am not ashamed to admit that. Wiring as you guys have found out from the last several pages, scares the shit out of me. Mostly due to my complete ignorance on the subject. Unfortunately for my ignorance, this is sink or swim time with the car, so better late than never to learn right?

Not going to touch into specifics too much since Adam covers it all extremely thoroughly on his site, but I will give some background on what you are seeing, seeing as Adam doesn't have photos of the wiring itself, just a wiring diagram(not complaining Adam!;))

I played around with mounting ideas and came up with the fuse box bracket as the best way to go. Drilled and tapped 2 m6x1.0 holes and mounted it up. Ran power off the fuse box main bolt with 10 gauges wires and then wrapped ehm up all pretty like. Tossed in 2 30 amp fuses for security.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395003456

I didn't think to take some pictures of the wiring effort, but I'm glad I didn't. It was messy and aggravating so I thought it best not to divert my attention. Each bundle of wires is painstakingly heat shrink wrapped with 1/2" and all the connectors protected with an additional bit of shrink wrap. Moisture is no bueno.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395003456

I bought an additional H4 bulb so that I didn't have to splice into the factory connector and make it all ugly looking. The bottom pair of wires are paired to the low beam relay and the high beam has a diode(bottom wire, the little round heat shrinked pustule). The diode makes it so that when you have the low beams on only, the high beams won't come on as well.

Middle wires are the grounds(black) and the high beam connector for the high beam relay. I color coded the H4 heat shrink with the factory wire colors. White is high beams, red low beams, black ground.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395003456

Left harness is the drivers side. I ran the ground to the drivers side firewall ground. Power wires get run to the passenger side to connect to the relays. Right harness is passenger, and the same setup only ground is being run to the alternator.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395003456

Routed the wires through the upper fan brackets

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395003456

Drivers side grounds

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395003456

God I got lucky that everything was long enough. All the wires hide neatly under the passenger fender.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395003456

I originally bought the bases for the relay but they sent me the wrong base for the relays so I used insulated spade connectors. I'll eventually order the base to clean it up a little. I think it turned out rather nice though! Out of the way, not terrible looking, and very convenient if there is a problem.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395003456

I'm not gonna lie, even though Adam's guide held my hand through this...this was a big project for my lack of electrical knowledge. But as with all wiring...slow and low is the tempo! I'm extremely pleased...we'll see how please I am when I try to get them to work though!:crx:

Looks good! :)

I know you probably posted it before, but what's your source for the wire wrap/loom you're using?

Search techflex in amazon. The split braided variety. It is the cheapest I've found it. Plus amazon prime shipping!

Looks good! Although, for an even cleaner (and more serviceable) you may want to use a pair of these:

Bosch/TYCO 3-334-485-008 Relay Socket- Mounting Tab included | TESSCO

Keep up the great work!

I did, they sent me the wrong base ;)

I hope my wiring comes out that clean! I got a bit of headlight wiring ahead of me... Not looking forward to it but I want more light lol

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395078138

Yeah, and pressurized air is a lot more likely to escape past those threads than viscous oil under atmospheric pressure on your trans

Most recent updates.. :drool:

So if on a MS would there be any downside to removing the VICS along with the flappers inside? Could you just tune it out? Ive never had a 99+ head

VICS is goodness. Better off using one of the MS's digital outputs to control it.

Agreed, but where are those tasty digital outputs so I can connect it to MS?

Would that be this cable I was wondering about a while back?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395098804

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Getting the dash ready to put back in, so I hooked the dash harness back up to it and tied it down with zip ties and non-abrasive tape. Also secured all the radio harness/unused connectors to keep them from rattling around.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395098804

Also took the old rotted padding off the top of the dash and put new foam down.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395098804

Ignore that...

Some how I forgot the dash project and switch back to wiring mode.

This connector had snapped off but the wire end was so short I couldn't strip the sheath off it. So I disassembled the connector and was lucky to have just enough wire to solder with.

Pin was a bitch to remove

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395123487

Reconnected and cleaned up.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395123487

Also did the dual fan mod to the AC fan. Tap into the yellow wire on the drivers side fan and connect it with passenger side black/blue wire. Add an insulated spade connector so that when you remove the radiator and/or fans you don't have to cut the wire.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395123487

Then I decided to clean up the headlight wiring a little. Tucked the harness even further under the fender and zip tied them together.

I always wanted to make a little box to cover up the relays and the connectors. Since I have a ton of ABS plastic leftover I made it out of that. Instead of cutting it and trying to use plastic epoxy I decided to try bending it and molding it with heat.

So the problem in my head was how do I get the plastic to bend straight and not wavy? So I added a weak point to the plastic so that when I heat it up it bends at the spot with the least resistance.

I measured and used my linoleum cutter to cut deep relief channels in the plastic and routed the edges so that it wouldn't jam up before it made the full bend.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395123487

It worked perfectly. Just heat it up until you feel it start to become flexible, then moving fast, using an object with a perfect 90 degree angle on it, bend the plastic over the object and hold it in place until you feel it start to harden up. Then just repeat!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395123487

Turned out great, I used industrial strength velcro to attach it to the side of the fuse box mount. I am going to make one more and refine it a little using the measurements from the first box.

Not sure what I could do to clean up the "lid" portion of the box. If I cut the edges off the edges will be exposed on the side. I guess I could cut the entire lid off and then make a separate lid that slides over the front and side 1/2".

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395123487

What do you guys think?

I think your shock tower brace is the wrong color blue...

Right? It is driving me crazy...going to remove it soon and have it powder coated a semi-matte black.

You are a cruel man.

He knows, that I know, it is wrong, but yes, so so cruel.

------

Got the dashboard in, haven't gotten the wiring hooked up under the steering wheel since I accidentally zip tied the connectors too tight, so I need to clip it and pull it down.

The HVAC pull wires are hooked up and work flawlessly, AFR/Boost gauges hooked up, blower box as well. Steering wheel is missing a bolt, but the gauges are all hooked up too. Which is pointless since I need to pull the plastic off so when and if the car starts I can zero the needles after the Revlimiter gauge face install.

So all that is left on the interior is the seat rails, seat, and the rear finish panel carpeting. Also need to find a way to put the Rennenmetal brackets on with out cutting the plastic to make it look more polished.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395143160

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395143160

:party:

Also, any reason my gas pedal is so notchy? Sounds like their is gravel in the line when I push the pedal all the way down. Does that imply a fubar'd cable?

Lube it. They can get crud in there, so flush it out with WD-40 or similar, first.