https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...af42aa61d.jpeg
New fuel filter and lines
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Kraken manifold came! And so did I! Giggity.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...563e126cb.jpeg
Slave cylinder fluid should not look like this…
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...376354d9b.jpeg
Downpipe is beautiful!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c738308e8.jpeg
Everything finally installed except some vacuum lines and coolant lines.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9198fa4cf.jpeg
6 lb lithium ion battery. I thought delivery guy was punking me when he handed me the box.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0204dfa5c.jpeg
Hood back on and finally ready….not in keeping with Jeff fashion car is in a fine state of shop filth after a few months of being on the lift. I’m soweee
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Finally everything done ready for first start. Nervous as fuck…

Great choice with the Kraken setup. I love mine, it's beefy as fuck, and has held up to a lot of track abuse.

Stoked for updates and to see this thing running. It's going to be a ripper for sure.

Dude and the downpipe. It fit so perfectly I literally heard the vband just go *click* mated to the midpipe and stayed without a clamp. So good.

Video proof I’m not dreaming. I feel so proud at the moment. Dayumn it all came together.

First start:

First drive:

Goddamn it feels good to see Jeff's car moving again. That underside shot is ridiculous, I forgot how clean that thing is.

Congrats man, great work. :likecat:

Thanks dude. Definitely feeling good about the whole process. Learned a LOT. Tuning next.

Awesomely done! Reminder that lots of engine braking is required for a good ring seat, and don't be afraid to get some RPMs in there and a little bit of boost (part throttle). Break in happens quickly and you don't want to limp it too much. This is of course IMO, so do your own research, everyone has different ideas on this.

That’s what I have read as well. I’m running the old tune from Jeff’s previous iteration. Only thing different is that it’s a 6758 instead of a 6258 and different manifold and downpipe. I feel like it’s reasonably safe to drive it and break it in as you’ve suggested. Tuner is 6-8 weeks out and by that time it’s winter :( sigh….Michigan. Fab 9 tuning is only an hour away and a week out but I have to rent a trailer and two hour round trip to get there. Decisions…

First drive while not…ya know pouring rain at night. Going easy barely into boost AFRs look good. Full tune incoming next week. The noises and torque. Omg….

Initial tune on 93 at conservative 18 PSI. Quite pleased at that torque curve already max at 3500 with a 7800 redline. So much room for activities. I told him to prioritize torque at low RPMs and to keep power below 300 for reliability and drivetrain. I get home in a few days for first drive on a proper tune vid incoming.

I don't remember, what's done to the head? 7800rpm sounds like a lot for a street car, and you can see from the Dyno sheet it's not making power up there. If it were mine I'd drop it to 7200 or maybe 7400 rpm.

Peak HP numbers seem a lil light for 18 psi on a 6258 but it is super meaty down low!

Supertech double titanium valve springs otherwise stock head.

It's the EFR 6758...I told him to keep it below 300 hp and just tune for as much early grunt as possible. You're saying all things being equal with proper fuel at 18 psi most are seeing higher than that?

Oh. Yeah, I mean unless he's tapering boost off deliberately to keep it under 300 like you requested that thing should be making well over 300 with that turbo at that boost pressure, pretty much without even trying. Although this is a BP5A head right? Still don't think that would be enough to hold it back that much. If he's just retarding timing to hold back power then you're gonna melt some exhaust valves to retard it enough to keep it under 300 at that PSI.

But it also depends on dyno settings. Is this a notoriously low-reading dyno? stuff like that.

Agreed on 7800 being high for normal use if it's got a stock valve train.

JEM sport appears to be a Mustang dyno, which vary a lot from unit to unit. There's no good way to compare the hard numbers without running the same car with the same tune in the same conditions on a dynojet. Overall shape of the curve looks about right, peak hp is 6% higher than peak torque which tells you the torque is holding reasonably well into the high revs.

--Ian

It's an AWD dyno and a friend of mine was pretty disappointed with his power output on his STI from the same dyno. The head is a BP4W. I'll have to ask him what is going on when I go to pick up the car. I'll ask him for the logs of the dyno and see if I can post them here.

At this point I'm expecting he was tapering boost down to keep it under 300.

Or it's just reading different like Ian said.

Either way, bet it drives beastly with that much torque in the midrange.

Assuming stock cams, the torque curve looks like flat boost to me. I think it's just dyno calibration.

--Ian

You think? It just tapers so much after 5k, I wouldn't expect a 6758 on a BP4W to do that so much.

Part of that perception is because you're looking at the 7800 RPM cutoff whereas most people stop their dynos at 7000 or 7200. Stock cams drop a lot above 7000. Peak torque at 5100 or so is around 260 (it's higher at 3600 but that looks like a boost spike). Torque at 7000 RPM looks to be around 210, that's a 16% drop.

Comparing that to Aidan's 6758 dyno (https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...58-dyno-93877/) he's got peak torque also around 5100 RPM (that's the stock cams) and visually smoothing out the spark breakup in the dyno there it looks to be around 320 ft-lbs, vs 260 at 7000. 60 ft-lb drop is 19%, which is actually more than this one.

My car (not an EFR) has a 13% drop between those two values at 20-ish psi, but I've got a P&P head, and oversize valves. I think 16% for a stock head is fine.

--Ian