Nothing definitive, but I strongly suspect that the first machine shop's seat cutting machine (which was new) was out of calibration somehow -- cutting the wrong angles.

Title this as: Tools I should have bought at the beginning of my rebuild.

Plus a 36-2 timing wheel to go with my ATI damper, 2 cam seals, two rear coolant gaskets, 99 head gasket, valve cover gasket, front main seal... Lots o' gaskets and seals.

Attachment 237786v

Ninja key makes a decent keychain bottle opener. That's about it. I also don't see why loosening the front cam cap isn't easier than using the above tool, especially because you've probably loosened it to get the old one out. Rest of those tools are invaluable. Rms and FMs especially. And the crank tool. OMG the crank tool. Although I've done long nose and short nose 1.6, na8 and NB, still have yet to use all three bolt patterns...

I've heard really mixed reviews on the ninja tool. Some can't live without it, others hate it. Figured I'd find thr answer for myself. If it doesn't work, it was cheap and its a great bottle opener as stated.

The crank tool and RM are two I'm really happy I spent money on. Not scared of that job now.

Just heard back from the machine shop after they hot tanked the head and did a leakdown test/inspection for damage.

First thing he says is, "boy you certainly got some heat into this sucker didn't yah!"

-minor warping on top and bottom of the head, not significant(at least not enough to cause a head gasket leak)
-leakage on both the intake and exhaust valves due to valve seat damage

He said it honestly wasn't terrible, and mostly all the damage was localized to the #1 cylinder valves.

So now the options I go through

Is inconel worth the extra money?

My shopping list in my head
Stainless supertech exhaust and intake valves
Light double springs
new valve stem seals
Spring retainers(not sure I want to spend the money on titanium)

What else am I missing here? I got a rough quote @ $400 for all the work.

Hornet what did your recent machine shop machine the valve seats to? 45-55 thousands?

They went to the fattest value in the book. 60 on the exhaust. I can't remember what it was on the intake. The new head is holding up great though. So nice to not worry about it.

I'm wondering if your #1 cylinder is lean? Maybe send off the injectors for cleaning/flow testing while you're down?

Can't imagine a lean condition being caused by the injectors only because of how new the ID1000s are. Maybe I had a lean condition on the old RC750s? Not sure, too many variables at play here. Injectors. My tuning, wideband failure headed back from an autocross, my tuning...did I mention my tuning? ;)

60 on exhaust? Damn, well, if it works, it works.

Shop owner said, give me your specs, I'll do whatever you like as long as I don't think it is a poor choice.

Exhaust seats are always fatter to transfer the heat.

This scares the absolute crap out of me, I have this exact same paranoia. I've stacked the deck as best I can but the tune is going to make or break me :noes:

Get it road worthy, stay out of boost, get a pro to tune it, maintain said tune.

That's what I'd do if done over again. I got an AEM Meth kit to deter anymore lean events. Will probably run mostly water through it for detonation reasons but will add some Meth to raise the octane a little as well.

Like you I'm going in both arms swinging this time.

RC's are arguably the crappiest injectors on the market. I wouldn't doubt that they ran lean/rich/bad.

There should be a federal law mandating that e85 be available everywhere.

I'd like access to 93 octane as well. Damn you Utah!

Its been a while but I seem to remember it already has some pretty solid gov't subsidies attached, and all in all its pretty terrible for the environment overall...

...but probably still "better" than regular dinosaur juice. I still wants it tho.

Move to Suckramental :giggle:

Well run so much ALLOFIT that you'll be twisting off input shafts on 6 speeds like my buddy

Yeah corn isn't the answer. There are better plants to get E85 type of fuel from. Brazil has been using sugar cane for like 20 years with a much better yield. However, it is a step in the right direction. Also, it smells better. :giggle:


Jeff, that sucks about your engine but it is good that you know it could be worse. Excited to see what you do.

Supertech all the things!
+1 exhaust/intake stainless valves
Double light springs
Titanium retainers

Goes to the machine shop Monday and hopefully gets done fast!

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Congrats

done right the 1st time. yes

Let us hope so Vlad, ended up spending more than I wanted to, but wanted to not worry in the future.

Going to take Hornet's advice and go for .060 seat thickness on the exhaust valves. Shoot for 74 lbs of spring pressure, but what I'm still unsure of is the intake valve seat width. Seem to have a hard time pulling up much info on how thick people are going on the intake side of the seat. After reading several of Emilio's posts on the subject, it sounds as if they go on the thick side on both intake and exhaust and have far fewer issues.

Figure 74-80 lbs will be good(with oem spring seats)for 20 psi of boost to retain enough spring pressure.