FM is happy to dyno cars if you pay them. They don't do it for free. :)

If you're going to the open house in August and want to dyno then, it's best to get reservations in early because it fills up.

--Ian

I keep forgetting people think I'm close to CO due to living in Southern Utah. Utah is a huge state and I live in the southwest corner of it. Flyin' Miata is 5 hours from Cedar City. Not something I'd be willing to make a drive to Dyno the car for unless their Dyno is made of fairy dust and unicorn tears. It would be cool to see their facility though.

On another note. I refinished my steering wheel again. It must not have like the leather conditioner I was using as it stripped the top coat off and was looking a little beat. So I removed the top coat and refinished it and then buffed it with a dry microfiber towel. Just going to use water and some light interior protector from now on.

Attachment 237815

Also bought these adjustable AN wrenched after a couple people recommended them(thanks Bryan), for my fuel fittings and to stop further damage to my turbo fittings. There are a ton of options and buying multiple of each type was looking expensive. CNC'd billet aluminum. Yum.

They don't loosen up as you use them supposedly as well, which I always found annoying on other adjustable wrenches. They are so light they feel really cheap, because my muscle memory is used to the heft and feel of steel tools. They are far from bad quality though. Hopefully I have these in my tool kit for a very long time.

Attachment 237816

No link?

:noob:;)
Vibrant Performance ::.

I didn't buy mine here but it gives you a starting point.

For leather, I use Ultra Shield leather care cleaner and conditioner. It's made for furniture, and it works great on seats. If you use it sparingly, it leaves the leather soft, but not oily or slippery feeling. A $10 bottle will do an entire sofa several times, so 1 bottle should last for years doing seats and trim.

Those wrenches look pretty interesting. I've just been using an adjustable wrench with electrical tape on it. Seems to be working well so far.

Wow, this thing is great! Looking at the video, this thing just makes smooth and effortless power. It's almost like a larger displacement motor.

I guess that's EFR for ya, but damn.

I should've just done that but I like having the right tool for the job. I've gotten a little tired of the, "make a tool work but it is a pain in the ass" method I've done in the past.

It really is suprising just how different it hits. It is still scary, but not in the brutal sense like the 2860rs. When the 2860 hit full boost....look out...and hope you are going in a straight line. With the EFR's linearity it just makes the car so much more predictable, as you said, a larger displacement NA motor.

Not to talk shit about the potato or your car/abilities, but I think a lot of that was in your tune.

So what, like a rotrex? :rofl:

You have no idea how antsy I'm getting as mine comes together. :eek3dance

psshhh don't be hatin' because your car isn't assembled yet G! ;) :dealwithit:

I'm sure it was partially tune related, but the delivery is really quite different. Before the car was stolen and it was all sorted it still hit pretty visciously.

And yes, the Rotrex comparison was quite the exaggeration in retrospect but ya'll know what I mean....

Fun was not had yesterday...

So I've had misfire issues for as long as I can remember on cylinder #1, always chalked it up to a faulty COP or spark plug but after putting in fresh plugs gapped even narrower it finally stopped misfiring on cyl #1 but would always return at idle.

So I finally got off my lazy ass and did a compression test and leakdown test and it showed low compression on cyl #1, and didn't rise after squirting some oil in the cylinder. So knowing that I did a leakdown test and saw that it was leaking from my exhaust valve on #1. Cylinders 2, 3, and 4 all were stable and had the exact same compression numbers.

So after considering my options I pulled the head. Dropping it off at an engine shop later today to find out the full story before I make a decision on what I replace. The original owner did a 3 way valve job with backcut valves but used the 99 valves that came with the head.

Shop I'm dropping the head off to is a performance drag motor shop and works on a lot of import motors as well and has been in business for 30 years so I am not really nervous about their experience/quality.

And before anyone says it, no this was not due to my tune I had done recently. It was a prevalent issue before it was tuned, most likely caused by myself learning how to tune the car and/or the rollover incident.

Not mad about it, as it is part of the reality you accept when you enter this "world", and seeing as there is no rush to get it done I'm not feeling ansy or annoyed to meet a deadline. Luckily it wasn't the bottom end, as that could have caused this to be considerably more expensive.

Took me 3 hours to pull the head, and the only tricky part was getting the CAS to clear the firewall. Really a fairly undramatic job considering how I was building it up in my head.

Probably going to go with Supertech valves to replace the OEM valves and maybe dual light valve springs for a little more assurance.

Let the fun begin...again! ;)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430747551

Attachment 237809

Attachment 237810

Attachment 237811

Two bolts to remove the cap and the CAS will just slip up and out.

Wait isn't this a '99? Why are you running the CAS at all?

Jeff, as you know, I've been pulling my head pretty regularly (actually, valves are holding up fine now that I changed machine shops). I recommend that you remove those studs before pulling/installing the head. I didn't at first, and the head would sometimes cock and drag on the studs. Having them out of the way makes things much easier.

Probably because the CAS is to modify into "one trigger per cam rotation" and run full sequential with a crank trigger wheel.

Until megasquirt supports 36-1T with NB cam signal we're stuck with this shit.

I do the same on my '95 with '99 head. Let me retain the OEM '95 harness and MSPNP9495. Perhaps I shouldn't?

Bummer dude, Ed told me about this yesterday. Hope the machine shop has good news.

Not one comment on this? Man, you guys are really slipping.

Boy, that escalated quickly.
I find it kinda funny that the ONE thing you haven't completely re-done yet is the one thing you're finally re-doing.

:bowrofl:

Scatter at high rpm. I was in the middle of buying shit to convert mine to full NB1 triggers before i got rid of it.