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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1097852)
We should count how many times Jeff has said "I'm starting to burn out" and then proceeded to accomplish more in a day than most of us could manage in a week/month/ever.
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Speaking of hypocrisy...
Windshield cowl and blower rain shield restored and installed. New foam on the pieces too. I cant find the large screw plastic covers on the cowl, hopefully I can track them down. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391354411 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391354411 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391354411 wiper arms painted to clean up the faded paint a bit. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391354411 Old Matting and glue ripped off the carpet. I picked up some really high quality carpet padding from Lowes for $30 for a 6X6 foot piece of 11mm padding with a vapor-barrier/antimicrobial/plastic sheeting layering on the top side. Going to take a while to cut the foam padding to size and glue it down. Seems like the OEM carpet only had padding in certain spots, so I'm considering just blanketing the whole main carpet piece with padding. We'll see though, with the amount of sound deadening I put in I think I'd run into fitment problems. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391354411 the nasty old padding https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391354411 Painted and installed the radiator/intercooler brackets https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391354411 Rennmetal Tow Hooks installed. Haven't put the rear on yet since I don't have the rear bumper support on. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391354411 Rear finish panel finished...looks way good, not happy with the alignment with the quarter panels yet. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391354411 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391354411 |
On the padding, be aware that this is a convertible and convertibles leak. Mazda used plain jute on purpose because it will evaporate the water rather than trap it (it "breathes"). If you use a lot of plastic in your carpet (especially considering the sound proofing job you did), you're likely to trap water leading to corrosion.
If you always use the hardtop and make sure it is utterly watertight, you may be OK. But again, the way to handle water over the long term is to give it drains and opportunity for evaporation. Sealing only lasts so long before it's more of a problem than a solution. |
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1098040)
On the padding, be aware that this is a convertible and convertibles leak. Mazda used plain jute on purpose because it will evaporate the water rather than trap it (it "breathes"). If you use a lot of plastic in your carpet (especially considering the sound proofing job you did), you're likely to trap water leading to corrosion.
If you always use the hardtop and make sure it is utterly watertight, you may be OK. But again, the way to handle water over the long term is to give it drains and opportunity for evaporation. Sealing only lasts so long before it's more of a problem than a solution. Shouldn't have any problems with leaking but I'll have to check on that occasionally. Plus the fact that in Utah, moisture is the last thing you worry about "remaining". It I'd so arid with no humidity that anything wet gets soaked up immediately and evaporates. |
I would not use sealant. Get some of that foam backer rod, used for caulking. Thread it into the front seal to force it to keep the round shape. Seals even the worst gaps.
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Originally Posted by rleete
(Post 1098063)
I would not use sealant. Get some of that foam backer rod, used for caulking. Thread it into the front seal to force it to keep the round shape. Seals even the worst gaps.
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I used clear silicon caulk on a couple of different miata's to cut down wind noise with no adverse effects. Nice thing is it just peels of if you want to pull the hard top of for any reason. Its amazing how much noise comes from the front hard top joint.
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Little more done.
Wiper arms turned out like shit the first time, so I sanded it down to bare metal and put some etching primer on and then some OEM trim paint. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391434268 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391434268 Carpet padding all finished up. Love me some Super 77 adhesive spray, makes it way easy. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391434268 Also repainted the Cig lighter trim ring and the Boost gauge trim ring. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391434268 |
Just when I looked at this picture I noticed that I have put on the wipers and windscreen trim before that rain shield... D'ooh!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391354411 So it pay's out more than once to have a look at this thread...! :rofl: |
Eh, cut out a tiny piece of worthless plastic below the passenger wiper and it'll slide right on ;)
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Installing the rear bumper tonight so I thought Id get some pictures up while I take a break.
Cleaned about 4 lbs of mud off the rear bumper bar and brackets and then put a little Super VRT on for protection. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391494245 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391494245 Installed. Is there some exact method to line up the bumper bar perfectly with the outer bumper? Seems like there is a lot of left and right play in the mounting bolts for it to move. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391494245 Found some grade 10 bolts that would work with the tow hook. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391494245 Forgot to paint the little windshield wiper spoiler that helps it stick to the windshield better at high speeds. Primered. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391494245 Going to take a break and mount the rear bumper on. By the way, mount bumper first AND THEN the rear finish panel... |
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Little more done last night before I passed out.
Got the bumper mounted, it is starting to look like a car rather than pieces now. Nice to see the pile of bolts slowly decrease. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391522855 Fender trim finished. Need to find a way to restore my mud guards somehow. They look like shit. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391522855 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391522855 Wiper spoiler(?) all painted up and finished. I have some Trico Neoform blades ready to go in. No clue if they are good but I always like to try new wiper brands to see if they are good or not. Plus I got a set for $20 rather than $60 they normally retail for so...bonus! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391522855 |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1098565)
Need to find a way to restore my mud guards somehow. They look like shit.
For inner fenders (and other plastic parts), wipe down with power steering fluid. Makes the parts look like new with minimal effort. |
and then what? don't they just gunk right up and look even worse in like 2 days?
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Nah, the outers, I don't think either car had inner fender liners. The actual mud flaps themselves.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1098585)
and then what? don't they just gunk right up and look even worse in like 2 days?
We'll see though. If I can't find a cheap way to do it I'll just clean them up and mount them. |
The restoration of the blower, HVAC flappers, and carpet padding is a whole other level. I'm... I feel so inadequate at this moment.
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Originally Posted by revlimiter
(Post 1098589)
The restoration of the blower, HVAC flappers, and carpet padding is a whole other level. I'm... I feel so inadequate at this moment.
By they way, does anyone know where this connector mounts? Looks like it should be behind the drivers seat somewhere but I have poured over everything and still cant find it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391525509 |
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1098594)
By they way, does anyone know where this connector mounts? Looks like it should be behind the drivers seat somewhere but I have poured over everything and still cant find it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391525509 Oh wait is it this one? It is the HT defroster then. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391533180 |
Curley beat me to it. Yes, it's the HT defroster. Mounts on the panel behind the driver's seat, behind your rollbar post.
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I'm guessing the ground location for the common ground(white ground bundle) is right by the connector as well?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391541523 |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1098728)
I'm guessing the ground location for the common ground(white ground bundle) is right by the connector as well?
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I think I have mine on that vertical bolt you can barely see in the right of the picture. Not sure if that's factory or not.
I can tell you the fuel pump and therefore car won't work without that bolted down. |
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1098748)
I think I have mine on that vertical bolt you can barely see in the right of the picture. Not sure if that's factory or not.
I can tell you the fuel pump and therefore car won't work without that bolted down. Mud guards installed. I was just being an obnoxious perfectionist...:crx: (I'm sure that gets old) but after some cleaning a little buffing and a heat gun I was able to get most of it out https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391550063 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391550063 |
You got me curious, so I just went out and checked. Black bracket for the HT defrost is bolted to the plastic piece behind the rear cockpit brace. Kinda all part of the same plastic that surrounds the seat belt mechanism.
Could not find a white connector or ground lug. Mine is a '94, so may be different. |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1098594)
Shut up Adam, you know you do amazing work dude! Your leather interior blows me away, no way I could DIY that sewing like you did.
The stuff you're doing here is amazing. Restoration of pieces I never even considered restoring. |
Originally Posted by revlimiter
(Post 1098811)
I know I do good work. And YES you very much could sew some leather. It really wasn't difficult. The stuff you're doing here is amazing. Restoration of pieces I never even considered restoring. |
The threads are most likely enough for the ground, if the coating on your new bolts is conductive, I'd probably use one of those as opposed to the painted one. Although if the bottom of the bolt isn't painted, it probably doesn't matter.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1098855)
The threads are most likely enough for the ground, if the coating on your new bolts is conductive, I'd probably use one of those as opposed to the painted one. Although if the bottom of the bolt isn't painted, it probably doesn't matter.
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OK in the HVAC project I forgot to to do the HVAC panel refresh with Revlimiter's kit. I ordered Barcode so it should look pretty amazing once I'm done.
You know...once I'm done disassembling the entire control unit and putting fresh grease on all the moving parts and repainting some plastic...god I hate myself sometimes. Pictures for my own sake so I can reassemble it. For every picture I show you guys I take about 20 more of each step, especially important on the complicated HVAC control systems. Dirt! The thing about the grease on these things is that it turns into a thick wax and THAT is what makes things not run smooth, not really the dirt but the grease drying up. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 Converting rust into iron, the bubbles means it's working!... . . http://images.sodahead.com/polls/000...ll_xlarge.jpeg https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 Clean electrical system. Bulbs are being replaced by cool white LEDs. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 What my AC/HVAC power switch looked like, the knobs were about the same state. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 Wet Primer https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 Dry, gotta wait about 3-4 hours for the primer to cure properly before painting otherwise if you paint to early and it dries before the primer does, the primer will contract as it looses moisture(dries) and create a little rupture ruining your work. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 Clean housing https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391567016 All the parts ready to go back in when I get the updated Revlimiter decals put in place. The cables I sprayed silicone into and worked them back and forth to ensure they were nice and lubed. http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...c/IMG_1458.jpg Sanity break time... |
I'm doing a lot of double posts lately.
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Double post. Still propped both of them.
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You're insane.
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I'm coming to realize that you're painting every little thing that can possibly be made black/fresh on this car. Which is awesome. :giggle:
But what kind of paint are you using, just spraypaint? Curiosity is killin' me. |
Originally Posted by rleete
(Post 1098919)
You're insane.
Originally Posted by festersays
(Post 1098929)
I'm coming to realize that you're painting every little thing that can possibly be made black/fresh on this car. Which is awesome. :giggle:
But what kind of paint are you using, just spraypaint? Curiosity is killin' me. For plastic parts or trim yadda yadda, I use Dupli-color Trim paint. Gives it a perfect OEM finish on plastic and things like your windshield wipers/knobs. For things with a gloss finish to them I use Roll bar & chassis BUT I use a primer when I do plastic since plastic shows flaws much more than metal. Primer helps fill in any little imperfections(I tend to use a high fill primer). With the Dupli-color paint you need to use primer. On the engine block/hubs/diff/brake calipers I use VHT Caliper paint. It smooths out better than anything I've ever used before. Makes it almost like cheating. And honestly that is all I have used this entire project. I will never reveal how many cans of spray paint I have gone through.:giggle: Proper prep includes light sanding with 200+ grit depending on the damage. For plastic I tend to use 300+ since scratches show through much worse. After sanding I blast it with degreaser and use my boars hair detailing brush to get every nook and cranny. I tend not to use microfiber towels since if there is any little edge or hook it will hold on to the fibers and you won't notice until you have painted and you get extremely irate. If you did happen to do this just grab a latex/nitrile gloves and rub the part down with it and it will pull up any fibers that you left on the piece. After that I use a different boars hair brush and put a little acetone on it and quickly go over the piece and then blast it with hot water. Then I use my air compressor(with an inline filter for grease/water vapor) to blow the water off, rather than wasting a clean towel and by chance getting fibers on the part. Believe it or not but acetone/wax & grease remover should not be your last step in painting, IMHO. I have always had problems with paint adherence when I use that as my last stage prep. Better to be safe than sorry in my eyes. Also light coats are a must yes....but be wary of going too light. If you aren't getting enough paint on the product you are essentially peppering the part with paint. This is either caused by not holding the paint nozzle close enough to the part or moving the paint can too fast. This causes bumps, or introducing a sandpaper-like finish. So if you do find that your part has started to accumulate that finish, on your last coat blast it a little past your "comfort zone" (I.E chance of the paint running) and if you get it just right you can lay a thick enough coat on it to give it a perfect finish. Also if you REALLY want to get a good finish, put your work lights or a heat lamp on the part, to essentially bake the paint. Sorry if you already knew that but I thought I'd toss out the info out for others. From what I have found due to anger/dissapointment/trial & error...it works. |
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Well that was easy. HVAC levers travel effortlessly but with a nice solid feel. No catching or gritty noise anymore.
Old & Busted https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391577941 New hotness https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391577941 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391577941 |
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I think we need a new Smilie
I would call it *jeffbug* (notice the little play with the nickname and what happens when you look at this thread - you are getting the Jeff-bug - a little devil in your brain that tells you to clean every little piece of your Miata to a better-than-factory condition...) This: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391584279 or this: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391584279 |
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Originally Posted by Zaphod
(Post 1098980)
I think we need a new Smilie
I would call it *jeffbug* (notice the little play with the nickname and what happens when you look at this thread - you are getting the Jeff-bug - a little devil in your brain that tells you to clean every little piece of your Miata to a better-than-factory condition...) This or this https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391585585 http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gAzhhNvKw1...40/CATLICK.gif It needs to capture the insanity or stupidity of me though!:rofl: |
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Forgot to upload this before I fell asleep.
Revlimiter makes an amazing product. I was worried that "Barcode" wasn't going to look good but I'm really happy I went with it since it matches the hazard switches absolutely perfect. I am undecided if I want to paint the line in the slider buttons white again, looks great gloss black, but we'll see. Also installed 3 LED's in place of the old yellow dim lights. I hear there are issues with bleeding that are hard to address but I'm not really too worried about it. The cigarette lighter trim turned out really good too. Mad props to Adam for making my dash perfectly restored...in my eyes at least. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391597591 |
Not sure what kind of lubricant you used, but I have had very good results with white lithium grease. I use Permatex brand, but they're pretty much all the same.
Won't harm plastic parts, doesn't dry out. For things like that heater panel, it's my go to stuff. |
I used Super Lithium EP Moly Grease. Way overkill but it is the only thing that I know of that doesn't dry up or damage anything.
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Wait... don't get lazy now...
There is a mark of your thumb on the right side of this panel..... :vash: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391597591 :giggle: Just kidding, soooo nice! |
OMG! Remove all the props!
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Just read the whole build. Fantastic project!
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Jesus christ man. This thread just disgusts me at this point.
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Originally Posted by Zaphod
(Post 1099024)
Wait... don't get lazy now...
There is a mark of your thumb on the right side of this panel..... :vash: :giggle: Just kidding, soooo nice!
Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 1099070)
Just read the whole build. Fantastic project!
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1099460)
Jesus christ man. This thread just disgusts me at this point.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391666061 OK got the second part of Revlimiters gauge panel refresh done. The before shot of the gauges. Pretty ugly in my opinion, and don't get me started on how scratched up the plastic shrouding was. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391666061 Revlimiter and his sense of humor, I figured I'd put the little guy to good use. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391666061 The after shot. The gauges were actually really really easy to put together, added more so due to the insane attention to detail Adam has. Let just say this, I hope he factors in the cost of his shipping materials & packaging into his prices but a small bomb could hit the packaging and it would remain unscathed. I also put his Center Indicator panel in to move the pop up light and airbag light to the center area since the aftermarket gauges don't have it. Also I spent an hour polishing all the scratches the plastic had accumulated over many years. look at the before picture at the top of this post and then look at the after image and you can see how much of a difference it makes. I used Menzerna FG400 for the deep scratches and marring and since it is a clear plastic I followed it up with the Menzerna IF4000(jewelers) finish which takes all the micro marring out of the plastic. Then to ensure it wouldn't oxidize again I sealed it with 2 layers of Menzerna Powerlock Sealant. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391666061 Happy camper I am. Also my professional detailer guy(whom I turn to for things I don't want to think about doing. I'm good, but he is better) called and said that the permanent ceramic wheel coating came in(think p21s/opticoat but better) and had just gotten finishing up coating them. I was excited to go pick them up but he quickly said no saying since he knows me all too well he is going to put a second coating on them tomorrow. If you don't know anything about what I'm talking about, think of a sealant or wax.... but permanent. Brake dust or any other road crap won't affect your wheels at all anymore. A little soap and everything washes off lickity split. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391666061 |
dem gauges :drool:
when I'm done with all my projects and get bored, I'm re-visiting revlimiters gauge order page |
Jeff, I am very disappointed. You forgot to install fresh new scratches in the gauge plastic.
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Originally Posted by 99mx5
(Post 1099522)
Jeff, I am very disappointed. You forgot to install fresh new scratches in the gauge plastic.
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Jeff, do not just assume the hardtop will fit perfectly when you install it on the car.
Best way to ensure the front seam is airtight is to loosen the mounting bolts on the front latch hardware (by the sun visors). You then install the hardtop, lock the rear buckles, and put some weight on the very front center of the hardtop. Like, 80-100 lbs heavy. I used a couple of blankets, and a bag of sand for that. You lock the front buckles with the bolts loose, and then apply pressure - like you are trying to push the buckle to the side - as you tighten the bolts, and then repeat for the other side. I got rid of a very annoying whistling noise that used to come on at 100-110 mph that way. Just wanted to have some input besides giving props to your amazing work. |
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Originally Posted by Godless Commie
(Post 1099534)
Hard top fitment advice
I didn't know the best way to get a good seal though so I'm going to copy that into a word document for later, thanks! Well the work for the morning is the boost and AFM Thank goodness for geometry....or at least making sure both circles dead center were on the same line. I suck at cutting correctly, so it takes me forever due to having to measure so much...essentially stupid checking myself. Not sure If I am happy with it or not...just doesn't look..great? Luckily I have a ton of ABS plastic to play around with stuff. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391692975 Also put the gauges and hood back on just to see what it looks like all together. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391692975 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391692975 |
I'm astonished by your work, but...
Place your gauges so you can see them while you drive ;) That placement doesn't look good and it doesn't serve the purpose. Unless you have a midget as your co-driver who observes the gauges. |
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Hi Jeff,
have a look at the Jassperformance site: Stainless Bottom Panels 2.5 DIN - MK1 - By Model - Mazda MX5 - Jass Performance https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391695481 http://shop.jassperformance.com/imag...NK-150x150.jpg He is doing great products - you can get a specifically made panel with your needed holes... the panel sits flush and could be powder coated black... |
Pair of needle nose pliers works great to snap the gauge hood pins off too, once you're finished with reinstalling the gauge scratches. /sarcasm
Edit: what Vuti said. Raise them to the top at least. You'd be surprised what a shifter hides, and how long it really takes your eyes off the road/track to glance down. The aftermarket gauges appear to be different diameters, which is probably what is triggering your OCD eye. I'm guessing you have the black back for the AFR gauge? That'll help draw your eye away from the circumference a little. That, or you could disassemble both gauges and send the face plates to Rev for him to copy and match your other gauges...But, only if you want a really CLEAN look... |
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non-matching gauges ... bring on the negative props!
If you want spend $$$, AEM makes some nice analog gauges that look hawt. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391699107 -Zach |
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Originally Posted by Vuti
(Post 1099555)
Place your gauges so you can see them while you drive ;)
That placement doesn't look good and it doesn't serve the purpose.
Originally Posted by Zaphod
(Post 1099557)
Hi Jeff,
have a look at the Jassperformance site: He is doing great products - you can get a specifically made panel with your needed holes... the panel sits flush and could be powder coated black...
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1099558)
Edit: what Vuti said. Raise them to the top at least. You'd be surprised what a shifter hides, and how long it really takes your eyes off the road/track to glance down.
The aftermarket gauges appear to be different diameters, which is probably what is triggering your OCD eye. I'm guessing you have the black back for the AFR gauge? That'll help draw your eye away from the circumference a little. That, or you could disassemble both gauges and send the face plates to Rev for him to copy and match your other gauges...But, only if you want a really CLEAN look... Hence why I tried to center both gauges on a common line, ahh well. Thinking of a solution. The nice thing is, is that both gauge bodies are 2" across so if I could find matching "rings" both in diameter and height I'd be happier. Not a huge issue though, just something I noticed. Little bit more done this morning before I call it a day and catch up on some paperwork I've been overlooking. So the original owner of the car brought this issue up when I bought it. The ignition switch would occasionally not work and it would act like a dead battery since nothing would happen when you'd turn the key. It happened to me once or twice on the drive back from AL-UT and I didn't remember it till this morning. Cut a slot in the stupid security bolts(hate these things) so you can remove the key cylinder along with 4 other screws. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391699955 Disassembled https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391699955 A guide I read didn't mention these contacts but I cleaned them anyways. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391699955 Nasty old grease that may be the root of the problem. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391699955 Clean these as well https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391699955 Be careful removing this body. There are 2 ball bearings triggered in the bottom that will fly away never to be found again if lost. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391699955 Ignition head lightly polished with Mag Aluminum Polish. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391699955 Along with the rest of the lock assembly https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391699955 Cleaned with electrical contact cleaner and ready to be put back together once I buy a small tube of di-electric grease, apparently you don't want to use normal grease on these parts? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391699955 This is super easy to do, literally took me an hour. |
I'm an idiot.
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