True...it does seem odd when you word it like that...

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...31f600e1e3.jpg

:laugh:

I'm right there with you Jeff, just not to the same degree tho.
I pressure washed every single one of my cars bays at least once, including the complete underbelly/bottom of engine/trans/etc.

Anything less just feels.................dirty

I need to post pics of the bottom end of the FE in my pickup, just to watch you two squirm. :giggle:

You should have seen mine after Mudfest :giggle:

I'll post up video if I can find it. Mud up to the middle of the doors. It was awesome until I snapped an axle shaft.

Spent 4 hours power washing, and that was just the frame and bed, didn't even get to the engine bay.

He just hires the fire department bi-weekly
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426480546

While I'm waiting for the last of the turbo parts I thought I'd finally get off my ass and get my oil cooler finished up.

Learned the hard way that you have to be careful threading the 2 pieces of the connector together as I stripped my first one. Since I needed a new connector I thought I'd try out the nylon braided line, rather than the stainless braided. It is SO much easier to use. Easy to cut, easy to push in, no stabbing your fingers, and it looks 10x better as well IMHO.

Attachment 238099

Luckily I didn't have to cut any of the oil sandwich thread off since I'm using the larger oil filter it can thread on further.

I was able to clock it at around 1 o' clock to clear the intake manifold as well as the studs.

Attachment 238100

Used a couple clamps to make sure they don't move around. Not the prettiest, but the coolant hose will be covering it up so, meh...

Attachment 238101

The oil cooler position is perfect for hose routing. I believe each length is 12-18". So no extra oil or clutter.

Attachment 238102

What's the easiest way to "prime" the cooler and lines without making a huge mess? I read the cooler tends to self prime itself, and the whole "trapped air" issue is blown out of proportion, just don't want to run into an oil starvation issue.

Unplug the CAS (or whatever gives you an ignition/fuel injection pulse) and crank until you see oil pressure. Just like starting a new engine.

Note that the path to the oil cooler is never blocked by the sandwich plate. The only thing the thermostat does is open a bypass. It never blocks. Failsafe.

Looks good!!

Is there enough smack in the oil lines to allow for engine movement?

Yes sir. Put an extra 1.5" in each hose to account for it. Plus the swivel connectors can move an additional 1/2".

Wait, you removed the heat exchanger and the mocal fit against the block, and no addon nipple? Is that what I'm seeing in this pic on my phone?
What PN filter are you using?
NICE. Thanks for proving this works and taking pics. I keep telling people this will fit but everyone keeps calling me a liar. :giggle:

I'm waiting on buying a full PLX gauge setup so I'll tap it when I purchase it.


Reason I didn't use the OEM sandwich plate was I'd have to by a longer threaded tube to get both to fit. I'm getting fidgety and impatient to get this thing running this weekend! Ain't nobody got time for that.

This is literally the only way it works being clocked this way otherwise the AN connectors contact the starter or alternator, and clocking it down hits the block and doesn't allow it to seal against the block properly.

Its gonna be annoying getting the manifold nuts on the studs, but it doesn't hit the manifold this way.
*edit* I'll get you the P/N later G*

In a partially related story, somebody sent me a big bag of tape. I'm happy about it.

Plumbing for the turbo almost finished up. Waiting on some -4an line for the oil feed and a 45° -10 oil return.

Due to having a Mocal sandwich plate I didn't need the front coolant line T'd off to the back of the block anymore so I was able to clean up the front of the engine bay quite a bit.

Used -6an for the coolant lines with a barbed -6an for the silicone hose side. On the CHRA coolant ports I used a 14mm thread to -6an coupler and a 90° -6an off of that. Turned out nice. The picture angle makes it seem to be resting on the alternator belt but it has 1 1/2" of clearance and isn't going to potentially rub.

Attachment 238072

Just need a new air filter elbow and a couple other pieces and we are in business. Making AN lines is strangely zen like. It is pretty relaxing work. The nylon line is so easy to work with. Angle grinder makes a super clean cut to insert it into the fitting.

Attachment 238073

Attachment 238074

Attachment 238075

You know, lines to the turbo is one place where you might think about using SS braid instead. The SS is useful:

1. Wherever you need really high strength/impact resistance, like if you were running lines where they are potentially exposed to rocks/debris.

2. Wherever you need protection from radiative heat transfer. The SS is shiny and reflective and does this naturally. At the very least, you might consider some reflective covering in there where the lines are close to the turbine housing. It looks like you have good separation from the manifold.

Thumbs up!

Those are good points, and something I considered. In comparing the two, they had the same ambient heat thresholds and essentially the same specs across the road. In terms of radiative transfer I agree stainless is better. May just buy a bit of fire sleeve for the coolant line closest to the manifold, as it is a little close.

I honestly should have bought 120° fittings instead of 90°. Would have sucked the lines in towards the CHRA a little better.

Glorious. I'm still figuring out my plumbing so this all helps :bigtu:

Wow, looks great (as usual) Jeff.

Being my first time messing with AN fittings it has certainly taught me to octuple check part numbers and what I ACTUALLY need. Wasted a bit of money buying the wrong stuff. All my fault for not reading fine print on the part numbers. The good news is Summit Racing has a warehouse in Sparks, NV so next day air is only $25! This has nothing to do with FAB9, he is just on the other side of the country so shipping is 5 days unless i pay a lot for shipping and I actually want to make the next event in St George 2 weeks away. Rare to have an event I don't have to drive 2+ hours for.

I'm still in awe at how good that manifold and turbo look bolted up. This thing needs to run!

Soon. First, more polishing.