I know you'll do a great job on the radiator ducting, but I gotta' ask . . . do you actually need additional cooling?

I like the OEM parts unless there is a compelling reason to change. In particular, given our propensity to nail coyotes and jackrabbits, being able to quickly repair with OEM parts is a plus. Just food for thought.

I can vouch for the fact that during summer out here it gets hot as hell and at lower speeds need as much airflow as possible.

He may not need it now that it has started to cool off, but mid summer here in southern Utah, can not drive through town with the AC on as was not enough airflow.

I ended up cutting and installing WRX bumper vents in my hood and it has helped a ton.

Rev emailed...concerned, I assured him this would only be a done after I made his with all the OEM stuff in tact. I may have forced him to desire a new intercooler but besides that I'm not that amazing at talking people into things!

Also I bought a very nice plastic welder off a guy on craigslist...shit is gonna be legit.

Thank you for that entire post Harv, gave me some good things to think on. Unfortunately when I bought the car I had little idea what 300hp and 2300#s actually meant in terms of speed. Now I am quite aware, and as stated, I don't have a NA Miata to have the benefits of learning on. Like Megasquirt, it is a steep learning curve.

Not sure how much I want to set the car up for autocross. It is fun, but events are few and far between here due to las vegas speedway charging a ludicrous sum to utilize their parking lot for a course. It just seems like there are no options for cheap sites to race at, especially when the event doesn't turn out good numbers to justify it.

I am waiting for another HPDE event to come up and I will sign up for a good learning track day. I think, for now, I will only run off my wastegate when autocrossing or tracking the car. I don't need 300hp OR 25psi of boost.

A lot of people need to remember though that I am learning from scratch. I literally have 2 days TOTAL of autocrossing of experience and that is it. So I'm gonna chalk it up to learning how to use the throttle properly and setting the car up for a turn correctly and smoothing my steering wheel inputs to avoid any unnecessary preemptive loss of traction due to human error, and not tire traction limits.

I haven't had the foam in the car since day one, and the car is garaged constantly when not driving, but after you and Rev have both pointed this out I'm becoming more leary of doing this modification. Especially when I consider resale value of someone wanting the car JUST for driving on public roads. (I aint sellin' but just in case...;) )

Are that few of people really running turbo setups on the track? I figured the SUpermiata formula was due to people wanting the reliability of a NA car, and the lower maintenance and cost of it as well.

Honestly though, what I am considering is getting a smaller turbo(EFR 6258) and taking advantage or the faster boost spool for lower peak HP

Honestly? I do. Even with the numerous bleeding of the radiator(I haven't seen bubbles in over a week), and my current ducting, I saw a little coolant in my engine bay. Could be a leak, and I didn't get proper logs of my coolant temps during the autox day, but what I am hoping is that $40 and a lot of time can improve my airflow through the radiator, and avoid more costly solutions like the TSE radiator or the Supermiata radiator(which I still am not sure if it will be sufficient for my power).

I'm seesawing back and forth on cutting it, and won't make a drastic or sudden decision immediately. I can visualize a pretty good boost in airflow efficiency by doing it, along with improving the ducting to seal the frontal area better.
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My pretties showed up. Surprised how honestly small they are. Way smaller than my RC750s. Guess that is new technology for yah.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411097751

All ready to go. Going to replace all the fuel lines that go to the M-tuned rail while I'm at it too.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411097751

Plastic is still shipping. Hope it shows up tomorrow because I've got a rivet gun and a swank plastic welder to get started on Rev's cowling.
:party:

The head and intake manifold look dirty, better pull the engine and clean it :party:

Of course I cleaned it all up!;)

Sadly I didn't get any photos of said cleanup, I was a little into it and forgot to take many pictures. Also, delayed cowling project due to the shipment not arriving till this coming Monday.

Clipped off the RC750 connectors off and crimped on the new ones. Spent some time cleaning up the harness a little, and the M-tuned rail. Slipped the injectors on and bolted the rail and FPR back up. Took the old fuel lines off and put new ones on. I also tucked the fuel lines under the I.M. out of sight a little better.

Then I threw in the new W.B. sensor and, while I was in there, dropped in 4 new BKR7EIX-11 plugs. Old ones had been through hell and back while I was learning to tune the engine properly/TS AFR readings were off.

Threw the upper I.M. back on and got all the vacuum connections slipped back on. Then spent an hour or so organizing the hoses & wiring in the "rats nest" area. Good to have my engine bay back.

Now I just need to plug in all the new deadtime settings from Injector Dynamics into T.S. and start her up.

I didn't install the Walbro 255 after reading it can overwhelm the stock FPR. I may return it and get a Walbro190 or a DW200, we'll see what my duty cycle is when I get it running.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411231307

As "clean" as I can make it. Not great, not bad.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411231307

what pump are you running right now? cause I'm pretty sure the dw200 is just a silent walbro255

lol @ Not great. That's beautiful.

I see no mention of an aftermarket fuel pump in the original for sale thread so I will assume the stock pump.

I run under the assumption that it can always be better. A shitty, expensive, and time consuming mind set for life in general.:facepalm::rofl:

OK, I need help on just one data point for the id1000s. I have all the information plugged in correctly but can't seem to find the info on the injector timing table data points for these. I'm assuming I'm overlooking something but I may be a little brain dead to track it down.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411235863

For the record, my DW200 is silent.

Of course I can't hear anything over my hood vibrating thanks to the engine mounts :hahano:

Can't see why injector timing table soul change by inj type. It is typically set to be the end of the pulse, though that is a variable. 380 degrees means 20 degrees before TDC before the intake stroke. In to see if I'm missing a fine point.

he's mine on the vvt + e85 setup
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1411242900

Looks like I did a classic think too hard about something and it isn't even applicable research.

Looks like I'm good to go on startup.

Is the wally255 really that loud? Seeing as I don't daily this and I expect loudness from the get go, will I honestly be bugged by it?

Also, I'm currently jumping f/p to gnd to get my fuel pump to work. Downside is that, with key on, the pump is always running. Is there a way to just wire this pump directly to MS for correct cycling on ignition?

Re: Wally 255 being loud... Did it bother you in my car? No? Didn't think so. I don't think you'll even be able to hear it while the engine is running without really paying attention.

I don't feel like it's at all annoying.

Oh! I thought you had a DW! Dude, I had no idea. That shit is overblown. I think I heard your pump less than the current pump in my car.

Props good sir.:makeout:

Yeah I really don't understand how they got a bad rap for being loud. Maybe installed in a stock car with a stock exhaust?

In for answer to your second question.

The wally 190HP was by far the loudest fuel pump I've ever installed in a car. While sitting at stoplights I could hear my blinkers in the tone of the pump. Maybe it was because it was the HP model? I think Dave now has it installed in his car and AFAIK he does not seem to mind it, but Dave is way more hardcore than I.

I fully admit to being a giant wuss and I <3 my DW200 because its completely silent. If my Subaru ever needs a pump, It'll probably also get a 200 as well.

As for the change of injectors, I think your right on following up with the tables. The IDs are bitchen' injectors, but they are only as good as your ECU tells them to be.

Just checked my fuel settings and I've got this:

Attachment 238870

Fuel Injector Clinic EV14 650cc, settings as shipped in my MS3 Basic. Not sure if that helps or not, but that's what I'm using.

I ain't no pussy...unless I'm driving my Jetta, then I demand comfort.

The only one I was wondering about, was the injector timing table. Which isn't affected by injector swapping as I thought(so it seems).

The other graphs/data is adjusted based off Injector Dynamics Megasquirt settings, which is awesome to have. No unnecessary logs to run, just clear and concise data. If anyone is contemplating FIC( not pointing at you EO2K) or any other injectors, do you want to guess what your deadtimes are, and run a lot of logs, or let them do all the hard work for you.

The data is worth the extra cost. You gotta pay to play, but as in most things that is applicable to, is worth it from my experience. At the end of the day. I never regret quality, only cutting corners.

Mine is the HP model. I seriously don't know what people are complaining about. I don't even notice the sound unless the car is off. I definitely hear the fuel pump priming, and I like that -- that way I know it's working!

Edit: Gordon, you've got dildo engine mounts and you can't handle a little whine from your fuel pump? :laugh:

Fuel pump installs are a bitch with race seats/hardtop. Not so much the install, but the removal.

Pump is in, going to crank it over tomorrow. I need to give the garage time to not kill my brain cells.

Well that was less dramatic than I thought the initial startup was going to be.

I did find out I tore the O-ring on my FPR valve after cycling the key. The FPR sprayed fuel EVERYWHERE. Quickly turned the key off and mopped it all up and then waited 15 minutes till the fuel fully evaporated. Luckily the original owner had about 100 O-rings he gave me, so I tossed a new one on and trepidatiously turned the key to ignition again. All good, no pressure washer levels of fuel and no leaks from the fuel rail or injectors.

In the video, which is the first start, you can see me slightly panicking at what I thought was a sudden loud lifter tick. Luckily after a bit of google I found that the id1000s are loud like that. Crisis in head averted.

After warmup idle is dead smooth, like suspiciously so. Maybe I'm just not used to good injectors but I had roughly a .1 deviation on my AFR gauge and <30 rpmdot oscillation. I still haven't done any tuning as well, besides the data from the ID website I plugged in.

I do need to adjust my throttle enrichment tip-in. Goes a little too lean for my satisfaction and I need to make some small adjustments to my closed loop idle since idle droop recovery is a little slow as well. That is easy though, no biggie.

I am the excite
:party:

excuse my ugly mug :facepalm: