The alignment bolts did change after the first few years of the MK1 to a finer (IIRC) thread as alignment slippage was an issue.

if the bolts are original, it could be worth changing them to new ones.

The new style bolts have a green-blue finish if they are oem. Worth it.

Yeah, I came here to say alignment bolts. Apparently they stretch or something with reuse and should be replaced with some frequency.

One of the becauseracecar guys once told me that after I get the car alignment where I wanted it, take a breaker bar and tighten them bitches like there is no tomorrow... and then order another set for the next time you do your alignment.

+1 on the "you'll never have enough grip" thing. Because you won't. Show me a 100 HP E-stock Miata and I'll show you a driver that wants more grip. :)

Your video looked pretty good. Very smooth.

What size was the tire/wheel package of the RS3 car you drove? It would make sense to have more feedback and a more progressive grip loss if they're 225s on 9s instead of your 225s on 8s. I certainly noticed a (negative) difference switching to 8s.

Need to watch the video still.

Seems these days most people are going to the Rivals, never heard that they're not as good as the RS3s.

I have heard that for autocrosd rs3's are better because they have more peak grip. Most people I have talked to like rivals on the road course becaise they handle heavy braking zones much better and are more predictable at the limit.

Interesting. Thanks for sharing, hadn't heard that. I had planned to go to Rivals for my next tire, what you said makes me even more prone to go that way -- we all know I could use more control :laugh:

carry on

New radiator ducting is gonna begin tomorrow. Finally got the call that they expect the 48x96 sheet in tomorrow.

Bumper off and old undertray taken off. Lots of cardboard templates made.

Question on the front bumper bar. Is it needed to keep the bumper shape properly? Reason I ask is that I want to do a curved ABS panel that goes from the top of the radiator down to the bumper opening, and it is painfully in the way. Trying to get the air to run smoothly into the radiator. In my head, all the dead space above the radiator opening doesn't give an efficient flow, so I'm trying to encourage it with the cowling to go exactly where I want it to.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410921571

I don't think it does. There are a bunch of people who have installed RX7 oil coolers in place of the big plastic bumper thing with no ill effects. I believe Savington did this on Theseus. Of course, just don't hit anything.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410926734
You are talking about this, right?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410926734
The first time I saw something like this was on a Winston Cup Car about 15 years ago, and I'd always wanted to try it back with I had my 95 NA.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410926734
I always thought if someone built something like this, it would be pretty cool to share the templates.

Maximum Boost has some numbers in it regarding angles and surface opening areas compared to core size, and I know there are "optimal" angles and radii that should not to be exceeded lest the air separate from the surface and tumble, but its beyond my knowledge base. Fluid dynamics y0

Yes to everything you posted. That is exactly what I'm doing. It will be a very gentle bend. Should not be enough to create an air turbulence pocket or "eddy" if using a river as an example. I'll definitely use some string and a go pro to see if I avoided that.

The whole reason I started getting more serious about this, or at least a partial reason, is Revlimiter approached me about trading products. I can't do the magic he does, and he doesn't want to bother with this(I'm sure he is more than capable).

So I'm making 2. His setup is close enough to mine that it should work great. Just in case we've taken some measurements.

I bought an 18" metal bending brake so I wouldn't have to score lines(to encourage a straight bend) in the plastic and potentially cause a weak point to crack over time. It's going to run all the way back to the rear of the front subframe. A couple 90° bends at the frame rails(in the wheel arches for engine bay sealing) for rigidity, and have tabs to mount the cowling to the radiator fan mounts to ensure a good seal.

Sounds really complicated, but once you look at it long enough, it isn't so bad. I'll be sure to take measurements for anyone who wants to make something similar. My price went down on plastic too. $62 including tax for a 48"x96" sheet!

Also, I want to make 2 little cuts to make my life entirely easier with this....I wish! I actually need to look into this and how it affects rigidity. Maybe cut it and weld in a piece of square steel that is much smaller?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410931208

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410932494
Flyin' Miata : Engine conversions : V8 conversions : V8 CAI brace

I say got for it :)

Money! Gracias good sir. I also read DOM tubing is very strong as well. My fingers are getting itchy to grab my angle grinder and zip it off real quick. After looking at several threads and ThePass's car, it is nuts how much airflow it opens up to your upper radiator.

Is it necessary? No. To those who may comment on it being unnecessary for proper cooling, you are correct. Does it make things easier in the end for a good ducting solution? Hell yes.

Might wanna ask Rev if he's willing to do the same to his car though.

But no, it's not necessary to cut that out for proper ducting. And no, you cannot leave it out, something needs to be welded in. Hopefully something prettier than the above picture of the angle iron.

I've found the plastic very difficult to deal with, I've used leather for years now, works great.

The FM part far nicer that just a chunk of "angle iron." It looks like a piece of 1/4" steel that has been cut with a laser or waterjet and then folded into shape. I got to fondle the one in Gesso's garage a couple weekends ago.

But to the point, yes I'm sure one could DIY one with some ease. ;)

Never noticed that with Hoosiers. I ran A6s for five years at our local with my Miata. The grip was always very predictable overall. It really depends on if you have them heated up though. If they are cold then you'll get loose quickly, because it's basically just a slick with some nice light grooves down the middle, but then again some of the slicker street tires like the RS-3 like heat as well and tend to be less progressive when cold.

Once you get heat in the A6 you find that you have a lot more grip than you think you do and it's overall very predictable and easy to drive on. I always found it a challenge to use all the grip most of the time.

That said, I tend to agree with the people who say to learn how to drive with less traction rather than more, but at the same time he has set his car up with a ton of horsepower (300hp?), so the car is very under-tired when autocrossing even with Rivals or RS-3s. If anything it's kind of a waste to drive such a car at autocross without the right suspension setup and tires to match, because you're just gonna be babying it all the time.

The car should have a very stiff spring setup and run at least 15x9s with 245 Hoosiers, better to run 275s on 10s if possible to make the most of it. You should be able to do Rivals and RS-3s if you really take it easy on the throttle and as long as you go for a much larger wheel and tire size (15x9s with at least 225s or better).

Again though, this isn't really the car or setup to learn how to autocross on, but what else has he got?

Maybe do a two day Evo school on the r-comps to really get your driving skills tuned up?

:2cents: I've seen a number of NA's suffer from a warped bumper after some time in the heat without this support or the foam piece that can be found in others.

Local guy took his out and within a relatively short period of time two dips could be seen right in the middle near the hood seam. Granted, this was on a black car but still it did seem to have some effect on retaining the shape. Could have been unrelated but it certainly seemed to be connected to the removal of that support.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410983514

Because excited.

And don't sell yourself short, Jeff. Your car is a testament to your own magic. It's considerably strong.

If this a street car that he's doing some auto cross for fun in, I'd say putting super stiff springs on and getting 275 Hoosiers is a terrible idea. It's a street car.

Too many people jump to R-compounds too early, and then they handicap themselves and learn all sorts of bad habits all while blowing $$$$ on tires.

If you're not autocrossing, TT'ing, or racing for trophies, contingencies and money, you're wasting your hard earned money on R-compounds.

Jeff...if you're just doing the auto crosses for fun and to start learning "high performance driving" stick with street tires.

If you want to get serious about autocrossing (barf) or track days or TT or anything then I'm sorry but you built the wrong car. That's why you see so many people switching to the "super Miata" formula when they get serious about track time or TT or racing.

Wasn't saying its a great idea, I'm just saying that is what you would have if you wanted to run r-comps at autocross with such a powerful light car and have the best handling, but yeah it makes it less of a fun street car for sure. Everything is a compromise depending on how seriously you want to play the various driving games out there.