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So i finally got some more work done on the Miata, been wanting to make a hood extractor for the radiator,
I made one in 1mm aluminium and welded it in, and it was a royal pain in the ***.
I warped the **** out of the hood, and could not get the hood straight again, so i cut it out and tried again on a new hood.
This time i got it right, with a lot of cooling and taking my sweet time just tacking one spot at a time always moving around the hood.
It took six hours to weld it in to the hood and another four hours to fix the warpage, but now it's in and the hood is straight.
Now i have to move the filler neck and the inlet on the radiator and make the bottom half of the extractor
The hood looks great. As someone who did something similar I know how bad the hood moves when welding.
I just assumed a stamped piece of aluminum would move a ton so I never even attempted it and just riveted my two different hood vents on. Welded will look a lot cleaner at the end of body work though.
Haven't had time to work on the Miata for some months now.
But i have 3d printet a piece of the version 2 intake. so i could check that everything had room in the engine bay. i need to make new lower brackets for the alternator, but that will just lower the weigth placement, not sad about that.
Since Shifti never updates his thread anymore i can post a picture of the wiring harness i made for him integrates wiring for wheelspeed sensors for tractioncontrol, big AEM coils, lots of sensors like fuel and oil pressure to the ecu, electronic water pump control, fan control+++ all connectors with tags printed on the wire.
this could be done a lot better. but it will get the job done. but stuff like this takes a lot of time and a bit of planning to make sure you dont forget anything
Looks like two layers of strain relief built into the harness. Took some force and repeated cycling to break that. Was the cable unsupported with the wire mass allowed to bounce around?
Yeah, the ground wire was just short enough that the whole harness was dangling off it. Even if you supported it more, it was under a weird amount of tension based on the other connections. An extra inch would have been all it needed probably.
Just found this thread. It makes me so envious of the talent and drive of the OP. Seriously - love your work. But ..... reading the thread was like watching an incredible movie, and the DVD stopped working half way through! What's happened to this car?!
Ditto, what happened to Shifti and this car? It ended as poorly as the Sopranos......did he die? Who did it and why? Will AJ walk in his father's shoes? So many questions and unfulfilled need for action!
Hello peeps,
I'm very much alive haha, but i have been working on other projects and two of my other cars.
But i have done some things, I really wanted to have some RS-watanabe,s on the miata, but they only have the 15x11's in negative 38mm offset.
I need positive 20mm. so what do you do when you cant buy what you want.
You make them, I bougth another sett of Rotas in 15x9 -15et, they will never look as good or be as light as the real thing, but for the street they will work just fine.
Since i had 4 of them from earlier i used 8 wheels to make 4, they ended up as 15x11+20 as i wanted.
It was a lot of work, and ended up to be the most expensive Rotas ever, haha. but the look good and now i can run 275 on the street.
Oh, and i went for a different body kit, Nopro fender flares and a Garage hundred one front bumper.
the Nopro flares are 50mm wide so i can run 15x12 with 295 on the track if i want to.
I cut all 8 wheels in a lathe and made a male/female flange on the wheels, cut them with a 51mm offset so the final wheel was 11 inch's wide.
Sand blasted them, welded them, and put them in a lathe again to smooth out the welds, then i sent them to powder coating.
Had to try them on harald*s stock body miata, they look massive compared to the 9 inch wide wheels with the 245's that he has on his car.