Greetings all. I bought a 1994 a few months ago and have been working on maintenance items. I replaced the coolant hoses, put in new brakes, lubricated everything, and installed a CD/mp3 player. The valve cover and CAS gaskets were replaced. While in there, I painted the valve cover.

I sourced some koni's and FM springs that I installed. Finally I replaced the dry rotted tires on Plasti-dipped nb rims with used Konig Dial Ins and BFG rubber that cost less than the tires themselves new would have been.

Oh, and I pulled some dents with a hot glue paint less dent repair kit that amazed me with its results for such little cash outlay.
This is where we are now:


I have the MK Turbo kit ordered and paid for, so it should be here any day.
Reverant has also been consulted and a MSLabs MS3 basic Megasquirt should also be arriving any day as well.

An AEM UEGO wideband is installed in a A pillar mount with a boost gauge, but the O2 sensor itself is waiting on the MK Turbo hot side parts.
I am in the process of ebay intercooling with a CXRacing intercooler, thanks to aidandj and deezums for their info!

I will update when the turbo parts and the MegaSquirt show up!

 

I have injectors/studs from TSE here, a Chinacharger, an ebay intercooler, and the Turbo manifold/exhaust should be here Friday(Thanks Lars). Now I am just awaiting word on the ordered Megasquirt!

 

Let us know if you need help, looks like you have stuff figured out. I'd suggest doing one thing at a time. Megasquirt-injectors-clutch-turbo bits-enjoy.

 

While waiting on the MegaSquirt, I ported the wastegate. With a good flowing exhaust, these China-chargers apparently creep a lot if you don't port.

I also relieved the area behind the flapper so it could open further.

 

Also, has anyone tried the Rust-oleum 2000 degree paint? I have found various folks saying the grill and 1200 degree paint doesn't hold up, but nothing about this higher rated paint yet. I am planning on borrowing a friend's sand blaster and then trying this stuff unless someone has already tried it and knows it won't work.

 

A little progress to report. I added a O2 sensor bung to the stock system so I can have that ready when the MegaSquirt shows up. I will be tuning this thing while it is stock. I want to slap in the MS on and start right away.

Sorry my fab and photo skills are mediocre at best. The stock downpipe is double walled with insulation in it!

Double walled stock exhaust. This is the end closest to the cat.
O2 sensor bung.
After welding, but before cleaning up rough edges. High heat paint was used to slow any potential rust here in AZ.

 

Why not just the stock o2 sensor location?

 

You can just use the stock sensor location since you will no longer use the stocker.

 

I want to just install the MegaSquirt and go! This way, no screwing with the exhaust and I can get right to tuning ASAP. I have everything but the MS at this point so I am getting antsy. Oh, and I want to se what the stock ECU is doing AFR-wise.

Ben

 

You don't use the narowband on the MS. Stock ecu is 14.7 before about 80kpa and 4krpm and then like all the damn fuel after that.

 

Ok, so I was able to get the car running good on the stock car with the MS3X basic from Reverant. Then I put in the FF EV14 injectors and could not get it to run worth a crap.

I found where to put the injector size, which changed the required fuel, but it still was not revving and was a lean enough stumble off of idle to stall the car. VEAL was able to get a really nice idle, but the car was not drive-able.

I manually entered numbers in the boxes around idle until it would allow me to rev the engine slightly with no load. From there I just babied the throttle at idle increasing revs and backing out when it tipped in too rich then leaned out and almost died. After repeating this enough, I got up the courage to leave the driveway. After stalling it several times, it got predictable and I finally have a driving tune. I even went to the store and left the laptop at home once!

Next up is to fab up an intercooler mount and route piping past the AC lines and PS lines.

Here is my current very ricer looking setup:


Yes, that is a motorcycle bar end plugging the idle control line. I didn't know what it was and it sounded like a giant vacuum leak, so I plugged it with what I had handy.

When I run the intercooler piping, should I weld on a bung for this? There does not seem to be a consensus on whether to plumb the idle control into the intake, cap it off, or put a filter on it and let it suck from the atmosphere.

Once the intercooler is done, I get to boost!

Thanks for any suggestions on the idle control valve piping,
Ben

 

if you plug it, you have no idle control. plumb it to the intercooler piping.

 

Did you set up the injector dead times for the new injectors?

You can do any of those three things with the idle control line. Running it to the intake piping with a bung post turbo (when you get it in) is probably the best, since it can leak boost. Next best is a filter and let is suck atmo (though you would want to put a check valve in line with it. This is what I did since I had a check valve around). You can also plug it and just set idle with the idle screw. But then you will have no idle up for AC or fans, or during warm up. My friend's car is set this way. He has to baby it until it is warmed up, but it works fine.

 

Yeah, I put in the recommended 1.12 ms number for the dead time from Flow Force's website. Thanks though. It does run great now, it was just a lot harder than others have made it out to be.

 

Not much to report. The car is running great , but I have had some health issues getting in the way of installing the turbo or intercooler.

I did try out that hi temp primer/paint. We won't know if it is a good alternative until it has some heat and miles in it.

Pictures of parts sitting on the toaster oven I brought back inside after everything cooled down from ever increasing heat cycling this stuff requires:

 

Looking good! I hope to join you in the land of mystical MS run miatas!