First off, you can all ignore the Hydra Parallel Install thread I made.

Second, I'm mostly done with my harness. I had a full set of connectors and pins on hand already so that was cool. You may remember I opted out of spending the extra $300 on the PnP harness and decided to buy a few diodes to build my own. Not a bad deal.

The other part was that I didn't like the implementation of the parallel install in a few cases so I'm taking a slightly different route for a few things. I'm actually kind of curious to compare my results with Stein for an NB. Ideally both would result in the same outcome--no codes, pending or otherwise.

For the water temp, I decided to ditch the second sensor idea and had JasonC SBB show me a circuit that I could use to take the sensor data from the stock sensor without having to remove the Adaptronic's bias resistor. I'll have to do my own calibration but that'll be easy since I have both an OBDII scanner to read temps directly and the Defi gauge to verify that.

The other thing I'm doing differently is the MAF trickery. I've got another circuit from Jason that uses a PWM output and converts it to a MAF-Friendly voltage. Then I just set up a 3D map (probably the 2nd fuel map) to spit out appropriate values for load and rpm. I'm hoping I can just get close and the stock ECU will never know it's jacked into the Matrix.


... So yeah, the harness is mostly done. I've got all the mazda pins crimped and inserted and a few extras I didn't need. I've got all the OEM ECU passthru connections soldered to the receptacle and shrinktubed. I've got all the splice-in connections on both ends and shrink tubed. I've got the Adaptronic specific stuff left to solder on to the jumper harness still.

I've also got the adaptronic splice wires running to terminal blocks so I can jump into the OEM harness extension. I've got the schottky diodes in place for the crank, cam, and VSS signals. I need to whip up the water temp circuit and dig up the AFM circuit and that's pretty much it.

The last thing to do is swap O2 sensors and run the serial cable for the TechEdge WBO2.

There are already wires in the car for the injectors and COPs (not the oem harness).

Much to Travis' chagrin, I'm going to try to run sequential ignition instead of batch. Since the tacho output is unused, it'll only cost me the one PWM output. For now, I'll deal.

More tomorrow.

 

oh i know, you guys want pictures.

harness in current state. yeah, it looks ridic.


I'm your huckleslang...


The option board. This is where intervening circuits and splices and stuff goes. It already has the schottky diodes that are equivalent to the ones on the PNP harness.


Big cap. I should put this on my COPs somewhere. I have a few of these of peeps still need them.

 

Your avatar looks like Mazinger Z.

What's the part numbers of the Shottkys, and are they to prevent noise from entering the Adaptronic?

Look up the app notes for the terminal blocks you're using. Specifically check if they're designed to be used with crimp-on condoms on the ends of the wires, as opposed to bare wires. If you don't follow this, the connections will be unreliable - e.g. they will keep loosening over time.

Why a 50 V cap? Couldn't find a smaller 25V or 16V one? I suggest looking for a 105°C one. The 85°C one will degrade over time at high engine bay temps.

One potential issue with using a PWM output that is really an injector output, for generating the MAF voltage, is the low PWM frequency. The resulting voltage "ripple" on the PWM-to-voltage converter may affect the ECU's interpretation of the "MAF" voltage. An "integrate and hold" circuit would solve that but it's a lot more parts.

 

the schottkys are BAT85 which is what I found that was similar to the ones listed in the adaptronic diagram (BAT54S). stripe is on the car side, not the adaptronic side.

the term blocks have little feet to crimp the wire. I will have to check on that. or wait for them to loosen.

50V 85C is what I had lying around...

the adaptronic PWM outputs have selectable frequencies and maps. you can point to one of several places for map values (logical, 2D, fuel, spark) and set the frequency independently. ie I can run the spark or fuel map and set it to 200, 250, 500 or 1000 Hz if I want. Was planning to use 500Hz. I think that's close to what we used on the Tec, isn't it?

 

1 khz is better than 500 Hz.

You have a schematic of where the Schottkys are mounted?

 

You guys are too smart for my own good. I'm not watching this thread anymore because it makes me feel dumber than I already am. Props to you Matt for figuring this out.

 

can do 1kHz. how about 2kHz??

schematic:

http://y8spec.com/adaptronic/NBB_Plug-in_Schematic.pdf

they're big and blue at the bottom. note they use a 3 pin device and i use a discrete diode so I wont have the diode bridge to nowhere.

the rest of the schematic is not what I'm using necessarily fyi.

 

I'm on my 3rd engine management system on this car.

but i'm still a noob compared to jason.

 

last night I think I finished up pretty well. I think that was because I had help.

 

yay for cat help!

 

I don't suppose anyone knows the resistor values in the schematic for R1, R2, R3, and R4?

 

got the thing wired in. need to mount the WBO2 sensor and make sure it all works before I button it up. in the mean time, I'm making my map.

 

Nice work Matt.

Another forum member with a 2001 wants to know where you sourced the connectors. Did you buy everything at Tyco?

Thanks

 

been lazy. didn't fire it up today. wanted to make sure it all worked (during daylight) before doing that. as of right now, the adaptronic and wbo2 aren't getting power. should be an easy solution since the power comes off the main harness from the car and plugs in. dont feel like digging under the dash in the dark though.

oh and I have to update my WBO2 firmware.

I think I also have my base map set up pretty reasonably. I ported over all my spark data from the hydra and just left all the defaults in for most of the rest. I also added the "AFM trickery" map.


Rafa: I got the 3 plugs from tyco as samples. I got the pins from onlinecomponents.com. I got the receptacle/header (the one on the ecu) from a now-defunct company I can't remember. It is ridiculously hard to source. I would try starting with Boomslang or just buying their pre-made harness and hacking it as needed.

 

It was for Ismael_pt. I'm sure he'll read this post. If so; Ismael go to both tyco and onlinecomponents.com and search for those.

Many thanks.

 

Yes, searching right now. Thanks Matt and Rafa.

 

Got it.

353110-6 Product Details - Tyco Electronics


Matt, can you verify that it is the correct one?

Edit: big fail.

 

I can verify it's not.

Connectors:
353027-1 (17 pos)
353029-1 (24 pos)
353031-1 (31 pos)

Pins:
316836-1 (72 minimum required)

the receptacle needs to have 17, 24, and 31 position holes. you can get JUST those 3 or you can get those three plus others. depends on what you can find.

 

I can't find the 17-24-31 receptacle, and is the only one I need. I want to run a standalone installation, and my idea was to attach the loom to the receptacle and use it as a PNP harness. What is the function of the diodes?

sorry to thread jack

 

Ismael, by Matt's own post you can see that the receptacle is not going to be easy to find. The company that used to make them is no longer in business.