Target AFR

From the manual:

My map, along with every other map I've inspected, has the AFR input in the standard fashion, i.e. 14.7, 12.5 et, not 147 or 125 as suggested in the manual. Which is correct?

Any value I input richer than 14.7 displays the message : Warning, setpoint at 3,000rpm and 50% load is richer than can be sensed. The warning is displayed even though I have LC-1 LM-1 selected as the 02 sensor on the extra port. Is this something to be concerned over?


Idle

I'm about to throw in the towel on getting this thing to idle. I've followed Travis' idle setup manual, recommendations posted on the Adaptronic forums, tried random button mashing, and none of it works. I can get the car to idle with no load. As soon as the radiator fan kicks on the car will stall. Moreso when the headlights are on.

I also get a weird oscillation at idle. Adaptive ignition is disabled. All cells around the idle cell in both fuel and spark tables are identical. Closed loop fuel threshold is set well above idle rpm. I'm stumped.



Any thoughts? I have a test and tune this Sunday, so any progress I can make before then would be awesome. Help me puke my differential all over the track trying to cut a 1.6 60 ft.

 

check that you dont have the OTHER setting for the wideband set to something other than "none" or whatever. it might be seeing that and giving you the error.

idle is hard, but not impossible.

are all the electrical load wires hooked up? are the loads set up properly to add effort?

is the idle area fuel tuned well? I dont mean "same values", I mean does the AFR stay steady within a few decimal points on the rich side of 14.7 at all loads (20-60) and RPM (500-1500) around idle?

 

That target AFR multiplier thing is from old school versions of WARI, it doesn't apply anymore.

 

I don't believe the plug and play harness has the extra electrical load wires hooked up to anything because I am having those same problems and the electrical load settings do nothing. Well the first one changes with the ps pump, but nothing is hooked to fans, windows, lights, etc. I was having a hell of a time tuning idle and cells around idle.

 

hhttp://ozmx5.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=91

 

I'll check the other o2 sensor setting. I recall reading in the manual to leave it set to Narrow band, so the OE sensor would be read. I'm probably mistaken.

The idle AF mixture is driving me nuts. One day it will be rock steady, the next oscillating all over the place. It probably just needs more fine tuning, although I see nothing that would cause it to oscillate in my settings, other than the idle PID controls which are probably wonky.


Ok, gotcha.

The definitely helps. If I wanted to add an electrical load signal for my headlights, is it as simple as running +12v to the board and then adding the input as an additional load signal?

 

That really helps for fans. But i'm not sure how to use that for headlights or windows

 

You'll need to modify the loom to be able to monitor headlights or windows. Personally I'd set up the open loop idle with the headlights on, then once you have closed loop set up it will accommodate accordingly.

 

adding the electrical inputs is very easy. I just dug up under the steering column for the headlight switch wire and ran it to an aux in and set the aux in up as one of the available loads.

the weird issue is that the adaptronic only has one idle up value that it uses for electrical loads. it is the same whether it's one or three loads on. doesn't seem to be a problem though. I have mine hooked up to headlight and PS pump and main cooling fan.

 

Yeah it doesn't sum them it just uses the highest one. In older revisions of the firmware it used to sum them but they changed it.

 

Ok, so do the trick in the link posted and run the headlight wire to another electrical input. The closed loop should take care of windows because they are really only bad when they reach the end of the travel. Once I get a new map sensor I will get my car up and running again and try her out

 

regardless of what idle-ups you use, make very sure you tune the load and rpm cells the idle gets close to for the right AFR. I tend to aim for 14.1, give or take. if you leave them "as is", you'll end up with an idle that oscillates and overshoots and undershoots when the idle ups come on or turn off. remember, the cells the cursor passes through are important too.

 

I can't tell what year model you have, but I had a terrible time getting my 2002 to idle until Adaptronic discovered that 01+ cars were burning out the ecu diodes. Something to do with the VVT system causing some reverse current spikes that were too much for the standard diodes they were installing ( I know zero about this). Travis took my ecu and upgraded it with new (higher capacity?) diodes from Adaptronic and it now idles fine. This may be old news since I was away from this forum for a while during the time this upgrade was discovered, but maybe it will help.

Norm

 

Norm - I think that is fixed now. When I got my Adaptronic, it even had an updated graphic on it. Mine is working good for right now.

 

Hey Craig,

How is it running for you lately? Haven't heard much from you in the last week or so.

Best,
Travis

 

It's still going good. I am looking around for radiators right now, I might buy the one off of you. I actually started the 60hr weeks so I don't have much freetime