ismael_pt Adaptronic installation (DIY harness)
#61
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Rafa, it's a parallel installation. The alternator controlled by the stock ecu.
The AC does not work either, and all of these functions are wired directly to the stock ecu. I have a hypothesis of what is going on: CKP and CAS wires are disconnected from the stock ecu, only the adaptronic is reading the CKP and CAS signals, the tachometer in the dash don't work, probably because it's not receiving signal from CKP or CAS. Maybe the problem is that the stock ecu don't interact with the alternator until it sees a minimal amount of rpm.
Could someone with more knowledge than me confirm that?
The AC does not work either, and all of these functions are wired directly to the stock ecu. I have a hypothesis of what is going on: CKP and CAS wires are disconnected from the stock ecu, only the adaptronic is reading the CKP and CAS signals, the tachometer in the dash don't work, probably because it's not receiving signal from CKP or CAS. Maybe the problem is that the stock ecu don't interact with the alternator until it sees a minimal amount of rpm.
Could someone with more knowledge than me confirm that?
#64
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I have just repaired my exhaust manifold and expect it won't crack again.
Still can't share CKP and CAS signal between the two ecus I tried with and without diodes, re-do the connections, re-check the connections, I play with triggers setup... but nothing works.
Any ideas?
Still can't share CKP and CAS signal between the two ecus I tried with and without diodes, re-do the connections, re-check the connections, I play with triggers setup... but nothing works.
Any ideas?
#67
1 I have the drawing of my loom.
2 I'm an electronics guy, so reading the drawing is easy for me.
For power ==> voltage x current = power.
Think in a sinus shipe. Using a zenerdiode has the result that the diode let trough the sinusshape but with a slightly longer zero time. result is that the shape of the signal is modified. the signal is smaller. a smaller signal is a smaller voltage. Look to the formula above ==> with a smaller voltage there is less power usage.
2 I'm an electronics guy, so reading the drawing is easy for me.
For power ==> voltage x current = power.
Think in a sinus shipe. Using a zenerdiode has the result that the diode let trough the sinusshape but with a slightly longer zero time. result is that the shape of the signal is modified. the signal is smaller. a smaller signal is a smaller voltage. Look to the formula above ==> with a smaller voltage there is less power usage.
#68
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I purchased and installed BAT85 (the same that y8s is using) and now the two ecus have signal.
The car runs, with the throttle open, I need to set the idle parameters. With the default map the min DC for the idle valve is 60, but if I lift the throttle the car dies.
The car runs, with the throttle open, I need to set the idle parameters. With the default map the min DC for the idle valve is 60, but if I lift the throttle the car dies.
#72
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The Adaptronic is connected to the idle valve in this way:
2Q to J4-1 (Aux. out 1 in the adaptronic)
2P directly to the stock ecu
Should they be wired that way, right?
#73
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I tried all kind of configurations and the idle valve doesn't seem to change. It does the same at whatever value is changed.
The Adaptronic is connected to the idle valve in this way:
2Q to J4-1 (Aux. out 1 in the adaptronic)
2P directly to the stock ecu
Should they be wired that way, right?
The Adaptronic is connected to the idle valve in this way:
2Q to J4-1 (Aux. out 1 in the adaptronic)
2P directly to the stock ecu
Should they be wired that way, right?
#77
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update (and request of help):
Today the idle valve has started to work, but only in 100hz or lower values and making the annoying noise. Any higher value don't hold the idle speed and the car dies.
Also the CLT signal is noisy, something similar to this https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t33414/
Somebody knows where is the ground wire of the CLT located in the 01+?
The IAT sensor (GM) is reading 3300+- ADC for a ambient temperature of 25º C, I think this is not normal. Maybe is related to the CLT noise problem.
The car start after a few attempts and only if I press the throttle while cranking. Could you guys take a look at my cranking fuel numbers?
Today the idle valve has started to work, but only in 100hz or lower values and making the annoying noise. Any higher value don't hold the idle speed and the car dies.
Also the CLT signal is noisy, something similar to this https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t33414/
Somebody knows where is the ground wire of the CLT located in the 01+?
The IAT sensor (GM) is reading 3300+- ADC for a ambient temperature of 25º C, I think this is not normal. Maybe is related to the CLT noise problem.
The car start after a few attempts and only if I press the throttle while cranking. Could you guys take a look at my cranking fuel numbers?
#78
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idle problem solved: min. 68 max. 100 DC @ 500hz, don't make noise and reach the target idle speed of 1000 rpm.
I also located and disconnected the chassis ground wire for the CLT, but it's still fluctuating.
Remaining problems: IAT calibration, CLT signal and cranking fuel (stock 1.8 01+ injectors)
I also located and disconnected the chassis ground wire for the CLT, but it's still fluctuating.
Remaining problems: IAT calibration, CLT signal and cranking fuel (stock 1.8 01+ injectors)
#79
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idle problem solved: min. 68 max. 100 DC @ 500hz, don't make noise and reach the target idle speed of 1000 rpm.
I also located and disconnected the chassis ground wire for the CLT, but it's still fluctuating.
Remaining problems: IAT calibration, CLT signal and cranking fuel (stock 1.8 01+ injectors)
I also located and disconnected the chassis ground wire for the CLT, but it's still fluctuating.
Remaining problems: IAT calibration, CLT signal and cranking fuel (stock 1.8 01+ injectors)
I still don't understand why you didn't take this opportunity to put in the 440cc injectors. Habría sido un solo coñazo.
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